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Old 07-09-2019, 04:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Specsalot View Post
  1. Neither of my head casting touch the skin of the camper.
  2. On both ends the main arm and rafter arm tubes ride almost the same distance from the camper shell.
  3. Both head casting rest on the brackets that hold the rafter arm when secured.
Neither of my head casting touch the skin of the camper.
The fabric makes the roller larger than the end caps, so the head casting stays off the roof.

On both ends the main arm and rafter arm tubes ride almost the same distance from the camper shell.
That's the way it should be.

Both head casting rest on the brackets that hold the rafter arm when secured.
My front does and the rear misses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Specsalot View Post
According to the ZipDee adjustment videos, they recommend adjusting the hinge bar (part 3G in this list), based on the symptoms your awning presents.
Yes, the....abrupt.... lady I spoke with said I need to take some bend out of the hinge bar.
However, even your picture shows how close the main arm bar comes to the trim strip. Straightening the hinge bar would take away any clearance, and I've checked that my front and rear hinge bars have the same bend.
Taking out bend makes it longer, I did the same by drilling a new hole.
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:18 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithcreek View Post
Only other thing I can suggest is the woman from ZipDee was right and the main arm bar (top) needs to be bend slightly AWAY from the trailer. Just looked at ours and the main bar and the rafter arm (other arm) are perfectly parallel. In your first picture, your main arm peeks out from behind the rafter arm. .
She didn't suggest bending the upper arm bar. She said to straighten the hinge bar. (at the bottom).
Now, the upper arm bar that goes into the head casting is my second one. I replaced the original due to a non related issue. But I had this problem with the original arm bar too. Beware: The upper arm bar is under a great deal of spring tension. If someone was to say, disconnect the two, he could be in for a surprise!
(I once posted a thread called "I hate my awning". I'm not sure what my issue was then, but it's always aggravated me.)
All the issues relate to the root cause. Solving it is another thing.
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:16 PM   #23
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My thought is the bend in the upper main arm to too tight and when you push on the awning as you described in the first post you are forcing some of the bend out of it, which forces the head casting and wheel to line up. Taking some bend out might allow them to line up on their own.

If bending the upper arm bar would solve the problem you could do it without taking it off. Unfurl the awning, pull the snap stud and extend the main arm. Put a 2x2 piece of wood maybe about 8" or so long across the inside of the bend so it touches the bar on both sides of the bend but not the bend itself, put a large (6" or larger) c-clamp on so it clamps on the board and the outside of the bend and tighten it until you take a bit of bend out.
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
It's been this way as long as I've had the Airstream.
But it's not right. I have an idea I want to run by you and see if I like your suggestions better.
When I furl the awning, the rear "Clamp Wheel" does not engage the notch in the "Head Casting". (I'm using Zip Dee's list to get the nomenclature correct).
In order to latch the clamp wheel, I need to get a pole and push up on the roller assembly about 3/4". It's hard.
Before you suggest 1. Watch the video; I assure you I've watched every video at least three times. 2. Wrap the awning pull strap in a manner that it doesn't pile up; I assure you I've zig zagged, wrapped forward, wrapped back, and nothing makes a bit of difference.

So, it seems something is wrong.
I thought the simple solution would be to move the "rear curved clamp assembly" up by 3/4". But that requires drilling new holes in the roof and plugging old holes. No thanks. Besides, that also moves the "Rafter Arm Tube assembly" up and then the notch wouldn't meet the pin in the "Rear Main Arm tube" for storage.


So I called Zip Dee and got to speak with "Nurse Ratchet". No kidding, she started by saying "I've been doing this for 20 years and you need to straighten the 'Hinge Bar'." Okay, but first, both hinge bar angles look the same, and if I unbend the hinge bar, the main arm assembly hits the rub rail.

I've also taken a tape measure and measured front and rear arm lengths to the hinge and both seem the same. Everything looks right, except the clamp wheel doesn't go in the notch!

I suggested drilling another hole about 3/4" higher in the hinge bar. She said, "I've been doing this 20 years, but do whatever you want!"

I asked her if she'd been a nun in Indiana (50 years ago) who used to whack my knuckles with a ruler, and then bought a new hinge bar.
I plugged the original hole with an aluminum pin driven in using a vice and Locktighted. JIC. (I'm keeping the original so I could revert to it if I need to.)

It looks like a screw because I tried to copy the grooves. I think it will be inside the main arm tube anyway.

Anyone encountered this problem? I don't think there's perfect solution, everything effects something else.


I have the same problems as you do. I use I step ladder
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:23 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rintintin View Post
I have the same problems as you do. I use I step ladder
Oh, wow! I'm not alone!

I'm abandoning my first solution although it allowed the roof latch to engage the arm casting.
Now the roller is putting too much strain on the roof channel and the strip of canvas that attaches the awning to the roof.
My new plan is to shorten the rear arm bar so the roller lays parallel to the roof channel, and then bite the bullet and move the curved roof clamp assembly down to match it.
I'm afraid my first plan might cause the fabric to rip over time or, god forbid, pull the roof channel up away from the roof.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:30 AM   #26
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I looked closely at mine yesterday and when the awning is rolled up the canvas fabric is pretty much vertical. Is yours past vertical?
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:10 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smithcreek View Post
I looked closely at mine yesterday and when the awning is rolled up the canvas fabric is pretty much vertical. Is yours past vertical?
I believe so. I know the front is different than the rear. When I was on the ladder with the camera, I had the rear main arm disconnected.
I'm going out again today to investigate. I'd be happy if the rear matched the front. The front works great, when I press on the front main arm, I can feel the roller move in and out a bit.
When I press on the rear main arm, nothing moves. It's under a lot of tension.
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:42 AM   #28
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Both our 2006 and 2014 Airstreams had this issue on the left side awning wheel. Left side only. The Right side aligned perfectly, always.

Yes, I considered loosening screws to move the awning... but why? Now you have an issue with the screws into the frame losing friction and becoming loose. Fix one problem and get into a worse situation.

I stood on a five gallon bucket, gave it a push into the slot and hand tightened the wheel.

The rod supplied with the trailer... maybe a good fishing rod. Otherwise you will wish you had used a five gallon bucket, after scratching the side of your trailer.

It took less than ten seconds for the procedure. The awning never came loose at either end as the awning wheel threads below the bracket and is secure. Even if the awning wheel vibrated a thread one rotation, the awning never became loose.

I traveled all roads and if the wheel had backed off, I learned to push the rolled awning cover a bit and could get the wheel as tight as I liked. Of course, I also had to get the five gallon bucket to loosen it up. You must be SIX FEET tall or taller. Nancy is 5'9" and would have needed a step tool.

If you are unable to stand on a five gallon bucket, or a step stool... well this may not work for you.
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Old 07-14-2019, 12:03 PM   #29
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Sorry but Nurse Ratchet just may be right. I had the same problem and I put a bit more angle in the bar and that did the trick. Notice in your photos that there is a difference in the bend angles of the two arms. Bend the one that mates with the wheel to match the angle of the other arm. You will now be happy.
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Old 07-14-2019, 12:16 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfa440 View Post
Sorry but Nurse Ratchet just may be right. I had the same problem and I put a bit more angle in the bar and that did the trick. Notice in your photos that there is a difference in the bend angles of the two arms. Bend the one that mates with the wheel to match the angle of the other arm. You will now be happy.
X2. Only I had to flatten (Lessen) the angle.
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfa440 View Post
Sorry but Nurse Ratchet just may be right. You will now be happy.
Maybe, but let me repeat.
NURSE RATCHET DID NOT RECOMMEND I CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE UPPER ARM.
She said I should unbend the hinge bar, which is at the bottom of the main arm.

However, the main arm is very close to the trim rail, and straightening it will make it rub on the side.
That's why I replaced the hinge bar with a hole 9/16" higher to raise the main arm, but that created another problem.
Today, I'm back to square one until I can pull it out and furl/unfurl numerous times. I may add turns in the roller to get the fabric tighter on the roller.

I have a few more ideas.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfa440 View Post
Bend the one that mates with the wheel to match the angle of the other arm.
This is why it's so frustrating! The angle of front and rear arms is the same. NOW. They don't look the same because the roller is pushed away from the roof.
The measurements are the same, the mounts are the same, so it should work, but doesn't.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:48 PM   #32
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Wonder if a spacer or gasket between roof and awning hardware would give you clearance from the channel and help the issue?
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:17 PM   #33
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I think I messed this post up trying to add info from another turnbuckle thread with a different soklution.





Quote:
Originally Posted by gdanderson
The entire awning is connected to your airstream with a approximate 5/16" diameter "C" channel. Your entire awning has slid back some small distance. From a ladder you will be able to see the channel and how the awning attaches to your unit. Slide the entire awning about a inch forward within the "C" channel and see if that is enough to allow the thumb screws to secure the awning once again. To move the awning all tie-down thumb screws and laches will have to be loosened. ZipDee installation instructions shows a machine screw being pre-drilled and installed through the "C" channel to hold the awning from moving. I would bet your "hold in place screw" has vibrated out and is not there. Be sure to check to see if the "hold in place screw" is still there before trying to move awning. If it is indeed there remove before trying to moving awning.

Good Luck
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f442...ch-196851.html



FWIW, this is from a recent turnbuckle thread. Gdanderson points to the channel and the possibility of the awning creeping towards the rear. I haven't been up on a ladder (now a required 2 person event) to check out my setscrew for evidence of movement. Our rear turnbuckle also comes up a little short of late and like Mollysdad...kinda have to horse it to make the connection. I'll also check out my angles described in this thread.


I posted on #12 some Zipdee instructions. Can't remember if it was on forums or their website. Step 10 page 4
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:11 PM   #34
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Awning wheel

I had the same issue with mine and fixed with a screw that didnt allow slide arm to retract all the way. Works great now . Will try to post pics
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Old 07-16-2019, 02:54 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttrout View Post
I had the same issue with mine and fixed with a screw that didnt allow slide arm to retract all the way. Works great now . Will try to post pics
I considered drilling another hole where the four stop holes are so the upper arm wouldn't go all the way in. It would accomplish the same as you've done. I thought changing the hinge bar (at the bottom) would do the same. (and the new hole would be hidden inside the main arm tube.) It did. But it led to other problems so I'm holding off on other fixes until I get it out where I can unfurl the awning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
I think I messed this post up trying to add info from another turnbuckle thread with a different soklution.
Thanks. I did look at that possibility. But my wheel lock is not off east to west, it's off north to south.
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:43 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
...

Thanks. I did look at that possibility. But my wheel lock is not off east to west, it's off north to south.
Thanks, mollysdad, a point is didn't consider. I just wanted to make folks aware, but probably should have left the N/S vs. E/W as separate threads with different geometry and solutions.
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:08 AM   #37
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I’ve observed this with mine too, re-reading this when I have a little time to test some of the solutions.
Btw I love your photos that you doctor up to illustrate the points you make. Great job helping me follow with no effort at all
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Old 07-17-2020, 11:39 AM   #38
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same problem

Did you have any success finding a solution to this? I have the same problem with my Argosy 6 metre Minuet. It lined up when I bought it but I left the awning open during a downpour when I was away from camp. Since then I've had the same problem with it not lining up with the hold down wheels. I tried bending the bottom bar, but without success. I heard on the video about this that leaving them open in the rain caused those lower bars to bend.
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Old 07-17-2020, 12:22 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDuggan View Post
Did you have any success finding a solution to this?
I found a solution, but I'm not going to attempt it...yet.
I had it back to the dealer and they put their minds to it also. They couldn't solve it.
So, here's my solution. Since the roller is already up against the roof channel, lengthening the arm creates another problem. Instead, I should shorten the arm (I'm talking 1/2") out of the lower hinge bar, which will give me room from the roller, and then move the curved roof clamp down to meet the jaws of the roller end casting. It means drilling new holes in the roof, which although the clamp should cover the old holes, I'm not ready to pull the trigger on.
Meanwhile, I'll just keep it as it is now.
The front is perfect:


The back is too close to the roof channel:


Lower hinge bar mod:


That's my current thinking now.

OBTW:
It's strange to do a Google search for these parts and find several of MY photos already there!
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Old 07-17-2020, 12:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Maybe, but let me repeat.
NURSE RATCHET DID NOT RECOMMEND I CHANGE ANYTHING IN THE UPPER ARM.
She said I should unbend the hinge bar, which is at the bottom of the main arm.

However, the main arm is very close to the trim rail, and straightening it will make it rub on the side.
That's why I replaced the hinge bar with a hole 9/16" higher to raise the main arm, but that created another problem.
Today, I'm back to square one until I can pull it out and furl/unfurl numerous times. I may add turns in the roller to get the fabric tighter on the roller.

I have a few more ideas.

This is why it's so frustrating! The angle of front and rear arms is the same. NOW. They don't look the same because the roller is pushed away from the roof.
The measurements are the same, the mounts are the same, so it should work, but doesn't.
Have you determined that the rear arm is perfectly plumb?
Ours was not and the rear lock was just like yours.
Note the screws in the original holes in the first photo.
Also how the rivet heads are visible all the way to the top.

Bob
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