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Old 06-24-2014, 12:38 PM   #21
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Why does Zip-Dee put hook lock at back of awning instead of at front? Hook at front should stop unrolling, or 1 front & 1 back.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:44 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
Why does Zip-Dee put hook lock at back of awning instead of at front? Hook at front should stop unrolling, or 1 front 7 1 back.
Seems odd to have 2, but the location is strange. I'm guessing it's not in the middle because of the awning strap so it would go in the front or back and they chose back. Maybe a coin toss decided?
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:53 PM   #23
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I need to get one of those hook rods he was using. I've never seen one before.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:10 PM   #24
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I need to get one of those hook rods he was using. I've never seen one before.
You can call Zip Dee and order one but if you can just find an aluminum rod about 5' long (Home Depot or Lowes maybe?) it just has a hook for your hand on one end and a smaller 60 degree bend on the other with a piece of vinyl stuck on the end to prevent scratching. I would think finding the aluminum rod would be the hard part of making one.

It's very handy, I don't know how you would deploy an awning without one. I could never get those wheels turning without some kind of bent stick.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:26 PM   #25
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5' of rod is way too much. More like 3' is plenty of length. I have a low folding platform that I got at Home Depot to stand on. I'm tall and it's just out of reach and using the hook is a PIA. So I just stand on my platform and use my hands. Then I have a low table to use with my lawn chairs. Rich, if your arms are bent and you try to straighten them like they show in the video it might work. Then again it might not. I don't think that new ones are all that much so you might want to check with Zip-Dee and have an idea before you start. You really do need a hook to deploy the awnings. When they roll up there is only the smallest bit to grab and I don't know if fingers would do it. Of course it doesn't need to be aluminum but thats what came with them new.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:19 PM   #26
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3' is probably right, finished length. You have to make a couple of bends in it. Better too long than too short to start with. My AS is in storage so I couldn't measure the length of mine. Aluminum is light yet strong. If you make it out of steel it'll be heavier and will rust (if you store in the bumper). But you're right, it doesn't need to be necessarily aluminum or even so strong. It just needs to pull out that strap and turn the locking wheels

I'm short, a step stool isn't going to do it for me. I agree the rod is a pain, especially when the sun glints off all that aluminum. You need sunglasses. I'd like mine to be a little longer because of my height. It'd be nice to have my arms lower than higher when straining to turn those wheels.

The PO had it come open on him so I know there is probably some bend. I'll go gently and if it doesn't work out then I'll order a new one (or ones). I'm a cautious (measure twice, cut once) kind of guy.

I'm not worried about the cost, I'll just take it out of the kids' inheritance.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:33 PM   #27
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A couple of things

I bought a very lightweight, two step step stool at HD that is just about right for awning operations, only when I have parked too close to edge of pavement to get it set up properly (the stepstool) have I had to stretch to do everything by hand and that was only when I somehow let the pull down strap wind up under the rolled up awning

Secondly, when you are working with the awning arms, especially if you have used silicone spray on them, make sure you use gloves when trying to get stubborn arms to slide..... get your palm or the webbing between your thumb and finger caught in that and you will need two people to extricate you.... and that's if you are lucky. Lots of power in that awning spring

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Old 06-24-2014, 04:08 PM   #28
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You are correct Rich. I had not taken the bends into account. I was just thinking of overall finished length. How's the towing with a 4-runner. We had a 6cyl. one some years ago and it had a 5k towing max. I think the V-8's came out the following year and had 7k. Gave us very good service while we had it. My wife graduated from UK. Have not been back to Lexington in a long time.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:14 PM   #29
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I found 2 step at amazon that folds compl. flat 2 rings 1 to open 1 to close about 1/1/2 in thick very sturdy no chance of rod slipping on wheels scratching AS also can get wheels a lot tighter, still use rod to unhook hook & pull out. Def. saver for me with destroyed right rotator cuff and rup. right bicep but I will not let these slow me down except asked for help one time.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:29 PM   #30
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Mine on 4th notch on the front and 3rd notch on back has door barely scraping the awning and the fabric seems nice and tight fully extended

I did stuff a pillow up there above the door and that eliminated the problem but I suppose I may do the rollers
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:34 PM   #31
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
Mine on 4th notch on the front and 3rd notch on back has door barely scraping the awning and the fabric seems nice and tight fully extended

I did stuff a pillow up there above the door and that eliminated the problem but I suppose I may do the rollers
Pur. rollers from Zip_dee install probs. ended.When Zip-Dee installed on my door I was not happy but acpt. best thing I did no pillows etc. Bite the bullet do it, save fraying or tearing. ps I am old school but they work no forgetting pillow etc. I am
probl. oldest cust of Zip_Dee as Henry installed on my 1967 30 ft. before even had shop,installed at farm. Henry & Loraine Duda were friends long time ago. [Zipeduda]
hence name of zip-Dee for awnings for younger set song of 60's era why Henry named Awnings this name
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:03 PM   #32
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You are correct Rich. I had not taken the bends into account. I was just thinking of overall finished length. How's the towing with a 4-runner. We had a 6cyl. one some years ago and it had a 5k towing max. I think the V-8's came out the following year and had 7k. Gave us very good service while we had it. My wife graduated from UK. Have not been back to Lexington in a long time.
Hi Roger
I'm not sure if you can even buy aluminum rods at HD or Lowes but if you can, probably 4-5' long. I always allow for mistakes too Sometimes you can get smaller pieces if PVC, conduit, etc. I check hardware, electric, plumbing to see what's available. Sometimes you get lucky.

I was fortunate to get my 2004 before the V8 went out of production in the 4Runners. V8 started in 2003 and went to just V6 in 2007 or 08. It's full time 4WD so 7,000 lbs max; 7,300 on 2WD. It pulls the 23' Safari just fine. The wife didn't like it because of the ride but when we hook the AS to it the ride is much better. I keep it 60-65, mostly 60. Rides, corners, pulls just fine. Brakes are a little off right now, it's time for new shoes/pads. Now the V8 4Runner is gone and it's back to 5,000 lbs capacity

I take care of my 4Runner, purchased it specifically to be a TT TV and to be paid off by retirement. It stayed in the driveway a lot, people walked by and offered to buy it. It's in excellent condition and has just under 70k miles I plan on keeping it a long time.

Our (last) son starts UK this fall. UK has been doing a LOT of new construction. We've been in Lexington for 17.5 years now and it's changed a lot in that time, especially near us. It's a nice city, just the right size, and lots of outdoor things to do. We have a lot of lakes, big forests, trails and caves. Keeneland race track is here and Churchill Downs is just 80 miles.

We like it a lot but want to see other states now that we're retired
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:51 PM   #33
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We have a friend with a 1999 4-runner with 275k on it. She took it in for brakes last fall and the dealer told her she didn't need brakes. She's the original owner so never has had a brake job. I did my fronts at 75k but didn't need rears.

My wife really liked Lexington. Had a friend out in Winchester but we've lost touch when the aunt passed away years ago. Still in touch with her roommate in Whitesburg though. Have to put Ky back on our travel list. Several years ago spend a few days at the Land Between the Lakes and visited an Army Buddy in Bowling Green. That was our last visit.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:12 AM   #34
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Does anyone recommend the Zip Dee door roller? Have not seen any pictures or much feedback on these.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:26 AM   #35
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Yes pur. zip-dee rollers simple to install with pop rivets or screws at top of door. Read my post above what I think of rollers, plus never heard any one complain about them
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:28 AM   #36
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Thanks! Would love to see a picture of a door roller on a late model AS.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:47 AM   #37
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Zip-dee shows pic. on door but it looks inside but must be out side of door other wise can't shut door. The pic is on Awnings by Zi-Dee web site. They are made of anodized alum so no rust. On my 76 AS there is trim of aluminum around edge of door, roller buts up to strip at top of door just aft of curve at top of door as AS doors are not sq. like sob trailers. Any q. pm me will explain further and if you are handy can install yourself, very easy to do. They will def. save wear and damage to awning if not raised high enough, plus can lower one corner in rain and not worry about door rubbing.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:52 AM   #38
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Great- Thanks.
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:04 AM   #39
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Follow up about mounting roller, make sure that inside of lip around door, fastener penetrates hollow of door not lip.
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Old 03-24-2016, 12:44 PM   #40
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Since no one has ever posted any photos of an installed roller (that I've seen), I thought I would take a couple so anyone thinking about installing one could see what it looks like installed. I put mine directly under the last rivet on the horizontal part of the door and the roller exactly tracks the mark made on my awning by the door previously. In heavy rain I drop the back awning arm 2 notches (back on 2nd hole, front on 4th), and the door definitely rubs without the roller.

I cut a very thin piece of neoprene sponge to use as a gasket underneath the bracket to prevent corrosion between the bracket and door metal. I also put a dab of Parbond on the screws to seal them against rain. Oh, and I wiped the holes drilled in the door with CorrosionX before installation to try and prevent filiform from the raw edges of the holes.
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