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11-07-2013, 02:23 PM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member ![](/ugala/forums/images/4rivet.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 355
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To sand or not to sand ?
I have a 31 ft vintage kin trailer. I have just started polishing. Most of the clearcoat is off except for where it is baked on. I have used aircraft stripper to no avail. The only way it comes off is if I use grey scotch brites with the stripper and then again with thinner. It does scratch the surface, however it seems to polish out.(I am using F 7 with a compound polisher.) I am not looking for mirror finish. Should I try wet sanding with sandpaper? Are grey scrub pads safe?
Also my trailer has a "mill" finish .
Frustrated Jon
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11-07-2013, 03:47 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master ![](/ugala/forums/images/5rivet.gif)
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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Isn't that anodized aluminum? This thread might help:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ect-78246.html
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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11-07-2013, 07:12 PM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member ![](/ugala/forums/images/4rivet.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 355
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It is not anodized aluminum. At least I don't think so ... The clear coat came off like butter on the bottom half of trailer. It is the top half where it is lingering.
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11-07-2013, 07:49 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member ![](/ugala/forums/images/4rivet.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 355
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Here is a couple pics...
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11-07-2013, 08:10 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master ![](/ugala/forums/images/5rivet.gif)
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,750
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What brand is that puppy?
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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11-07-2013, 08:23 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member ![](/ugala/forums/images/4rivet.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 355
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1978 travelux
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11-07-2013, 09:25 PM
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#7
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Moderator
![](/ugala/forums/images/icons/contributing_member.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonplayers
1978 travelux
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She'll be a real beauty all polished up.
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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11-07-2013, 11:18 PM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member ![](/ugala/forums/images/4rivet.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 355
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Thanks...she might look like a beast for a while though!
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11-08-2013, 02:24 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master ![](/ugala/forums/images/5rivet.gif)
Commercial Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge
, Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 624
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IF it were me I would keep down the road you are traveling... You may want to use MEK for final wipe down. I would not go to the sanding rout if you are simply trying to get clear coat off. Sanding should be a last result and is used with major surface scratches to try to smooth an minimize deep scratches.
__________________
www.VINSTREAM.com
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
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11-08-2013, 09:04 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master ![](/ugala/forums/images/5rivet.gif)
![](/ugala/forums/images/icons/contributing_member.gif)
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Chuckey
, Tennessee
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,781
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Are you sure it's clearcoat and not oxidation / etching?
Looking good!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonplayers
It is not anodized aluminum. At least I don't think so ... The clear coat came off like butter on the bottom half of trailer. It is the top half where it is lingering.
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Are you sure it's clearcoat and not oxidation / etching?
I know when we stripped & polished our '64 GlobeTrotter, the clearcoat had failed over time and where it failed earlier it started oxidizing sooner. As it continued to fail, it continued to oxidize in layers. It looked like a peeling sunburn - but it was etched with oxidation - those sections that failed first had more oxidation. It even had a slight ridge, like clearcoat would except it is a negative impression.
With work, it all polished out - but the top was definately more difficult than the sides as that's where the sun compromised the clearcoat the most & first.
Shari
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11-08-2013, 10:03 AM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member ![](/ugala/forums/images/4rivet.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 355
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Thanks for the responses! I guess it could be just corrosion...it does not turn black with toothpaste and a white rag though. Would you suggest that I keep on using the grey scotch brites? They really seem to help, but they do scratch.
I have also bought some 3M polish (Gravel in a bottle). Well I am not sure if it is the same as everyone else uses. It says it will remove 1500 grit scratches.
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11-08-2013, 10:40 AM
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#12
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"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
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In my experience wet sanding anodized aluminum is the fastest and least toxic way of getting a nice finish. 3M wet sand paper lasts a lot longer than a dry sand paper and there's no dust.
I usually start with a grit # that most quickly removes the coating with minimal scratching and work up to a grit (say1200-2000) but this depends on the desired final finish. Then go at it with what ever paste or rouge that works best.
An air power sander (DA) is good for the larger surfaces but hand sanding would be best for your narrow seam areas with curves.
Have Fun, It's worth it.
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11-17-2013, 04:41 PM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member ![](/ugala/forums/images/4rivet.gif)
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 355
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Not to sand!
Well after experimenting on the roof and the between the windows.
I have come up with a game plan that is working well for me.
1. Wipe down surface with clean cotton rag and laquer thinner.
2. Scrub surface with grey scotchbrite and laquer thinner.
3. Wipe down srface with another clean rag.
4. Polish with Nuivate F7.
There is not really any clearcoat left on the roof. Between the windows there is though...the laquer thinner and scotchbrites seems to help an awful lot.
I am now only compounding 2-3 times.
Getting the right amount of polish seems to be the trick...as well as the right rpm and the speed at which you move.
I like the look of the mill finish polished...it is not flat and glassy like some of the mirror finishes I have seen online. It kinda has a metallic look to it.
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