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04-26-2015, 04:32 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,406
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So, if it's really deeply pitted, it's better to wet sand with something fine, like 400? I have deep pitting on the front end of the trailer, I think from the direction it's been facing for years and the prevailing weather. I was able to hand polish a small area with F7, and used (a crappy Vermont American pad I got locally because I ordered the wrong hardware to connect the wool pads from VTS to my drill) a pad wheel to knock down most of the crud.
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04-26-2015, 04:38 PM
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#22
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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Here's a shot of my front. As you can see where the tanks go, it's ruined.
What I did was hit it hard with 400, knocked everything down as much as I could.
Then 600 the opposite direction. Then wet sand 800 then 1000. Then deeeeep pits and scratches will never go away but I'm very happy with where it is now. It's 55 years old!
After done wet sanding, I used the black emery bar with a treated buffing wheel with a lot
Of pressure to cut as much of the heavy pits out. It's all still there but much MUCH cleaner.
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04-26-2015, 04:40 PM
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#23
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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It will even better when I start polishing. Don't fret too much about everything just get it as good as you can. Post some pics.
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04-26-2015, 04:41 PM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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Forgot to say for sanding I'm using a random orbital sander.
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04-26-2015, 05:34 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,406
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Thanks, here is a pic showing the condition of the roof on the left and after going over it with a wooly wheel with F7, and then by hand. Most of the trailer isn't so bad, but I'll post a pic of the front...
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04-26-2015, 07:04 PM
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#26
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4 Rivet Member
1980 24' Caravelle
corpus christi
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 274
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Managed to get almost all of the scratches out from when we got her don't plan on polishing the roof where I plan to paint. The roof is where you can tell the change the most from polished and not.
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04-27-2015, 06:58 AM
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#27
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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I'm jealous both of your skins looks good. I'm sad mine will never be minty but maybe I'll find one that I can use as an actual camper that's in great shape
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04-27-2015, 06:59 AM
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#28
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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Handyman
What's the black smears on the skin? Is that tarp burn ??
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04-27-2015, 07:20 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stupidnoob
Here's a shot of my front. As you can see where the tanks go, it's ruined. What I did was hit it hard with 400, knocked everything down as much as I could. Then 600 the opposite direction. Then wet sand 800 then 1000. Then deeeeep pits and scratches will never go away but I'm very happy with where it is now. It's 55 years old! After done wet sanding, I used the black emery bar with a treated buffing wheel with a lot Of pressure to cut as much of the heavy pits out. It's all still there but much MUCH cleaner. Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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Your polish job is looking good but I have to ask, did you cover up your front window?
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04-27-2015, 08:46 AM
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#30
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4 Rivet Member
1980 24' Caravelle
corpus christi
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 274
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Yes on tarp burn it was on something PO had next to trailer and not tied properly. Even made some scratches that had to wet sand out.
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04-27-2015, 12:12 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,406
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I had black marks from tree branches rubbing on it when it had been in my back yard- not branches but just twigs and leaves. I'll have to read up more on sanding- my partner was so impressed with my polishing with the drill (and by the slow pace) he bought me a Makita polisher. Now I think I'll try wet sanding the worst of the pitted areas. I think too I hear you guys saying what i'm thinking, that it'll never be "perfect" but even with some blemishes, it's a mirror-like finish that is impressive.
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04-27-2015, 12:17 PM
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#32
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Rivet Master
1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,406
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Okay, so I just re-read the part about the hand sanding vs. orbital... if you go super fine, like 800-1000 is the orbital okay? I'm not afraid of sanding by hand, I managed to buff out a section of the bad corrosion with F7 by hand, but in the interest of getting this done in a reasonable amount of time...
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04-27-2015, 02:02 PM
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#33
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4 Rivet Member
1980 24' Caravelle
corpus christi
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 274
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Before and after.
Got to a stopping point lower half will have to wait.
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04-27-2015, 05:44 PM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1962 28' Ambassador
1961 19' Globetrotter
1962 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,996
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That looks great. I actually like the two toned finish.
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Hittenstiehl
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04-27-2015, 06:31 PM
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#35
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Rivet Master
1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,406
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Yeah, I think it looks cool too. It's inspiring to see all the work you guys have done.
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Wherever you go, there you are
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04-27-2015, 09:37 PM
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#36
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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Looks great!
I have converted mine to a food truck for my catering company, that's why the windows were covered up... The p.o. Did it he wanted to convert it but did such a crappy start to it I tore it down to the frame and rebuilt and refabbed everything.
I've seen a lot
On here but I think mine has some of the worst re-hAbbed skin I've seen in pics. There was no care for it lol.
Nothing wrong from what I see in the pics , looks great!!
As far as the sander, I was using 400 on an orbital sander then 600 then wet sanding from there, then cutting.
Got more done today, should be done cutting this week and start polishing.
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04-27-2015, 09:40 PM
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#37
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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What you see on the left is after I've hit it with my steps that I've been doing before cutting, on the right is obviously after cutting.
The Sanding for me sped things up almost triple for cutting oxidation.
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04-27-2015, 09:43 PM
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#38
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3 Rivet Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 156
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I know I upload a lot
Of pics but I'm sure I'm helping some
People
Out there. I was sooooooooo scared to sand this thing aggressively and for me it was the smartest thing I did.
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04-28-2015, 05:34 AM
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#39
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4 Rivet Member
1980 24' Caravelle
corpus christi
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 274
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Wet sanded from windows up on mine because it was so rough with corrosion it was tearing up the pads. Did just enough to smooth out. Defiantly spend up the process. Use lots of water sand paper in one hand hose sprayer in other rinse often to keep lose material from scratching surface.
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04-28-2015, 09:49 AM
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#40
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Rivet Master
1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown
, Rhode Island
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,406
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Great tips! I was wondering about how much water. I was just looking at the 600 grit that I got, it's very fine. I was also thinking about what to attach it to, a regular rubber sanding block or glue it to a block of wood- uses more of the sand paper and you can tailor the shape to where you're sanding, like a very narrow piece, but I don't think it'll work well with the water.
It'll be interesting to see how this works, I kind of wonder if the 600 is coarse enough...
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