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Old 05-07-2005, 09:21 PM   #1
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Strip 'n Polish Project Thread (lots of great tips and links)

Well, since it is finally somewhat nice outside , I thought I'd try out a test section of stripping the trailer. Over the next few weeks & months, I'll be stripping and then polishing our 1975 Safari. I'll keep updating this thread also.

It is a continuation of this thread, where I struggled with what to do with the exterior. Many thanks to all those people who helped on that thread.

I bought 4 gallons of Napier Removeall 220. It is fairly thick (like paint), and you brush it on. We left it sitting on the door for about 1 1/2 hours, and then we just hosed the paint off with the garden spray nozzle. The nice thing is that it doesn't appear to hurt the grass, since there is no solvent involved, and there was no smell. The water deactivates the catalyst (which I believe is Peroxide based), and all the stripped clearcoat ends up dripping onto the ground with the water.

Another nice surprise was that we 'painted' the Removeall 220 right over the pinstriping, and it didn't affect it at all!
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Old 05-10-2005, 09:03 AM   #2
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I tried the lower section of the door last night, to see how it would work. I didn't have any wool compounding bonnets yet, so I quickly cyclo'd it with the medium grade Nuvite. It turned out great for 5 minutes of work. I can't wait to get started this Saturday, barring any poor weather!
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Old 05-10-2005, 09:48 AM   #3
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Very Nice>>!!!<< Currently working on my 75 Trade Wind 1/2 done the first pass. Looks great too!
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Old 05-10-2005, 10:02 AM   #4
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Looking good. You're on your way!

I'm about 2/3 done with my yearly cycloing and wax job...
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Old 05-12-2005, 08:17 PM   #5
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Unhappy Removeall 220

I bought 4 gallons of Napier Removeall 220. It is fairly thick (like paint), and you brush it on. We left it sitting on the door for about 1 1/2 hours, and then we just hosed the paint off with the garden spray nozzle. The nice thing is that it doesn't appear to hurt the grass, since there is no solvent involved, and there was no smell. The water deactivates the catalyst (which I believe is Peroxide based), and all the stripped clearcoat ends up dripping onto the ground with the water.


Your project is looking great. I've got a 31 ft Excella 500 that I'm debating on stripping and your thread caught my attention. If I read you correctly, this stripper was a 'brush on' style and you simply washed it off. How much scraping did you have to do after washing the area? Also, where did you get the Removeall 220?

Thanks again since I want to have my ducks in a row before trying to tackle this job.
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
Your project is looking great. I've got a 31 ft Excella 500 that I'm debating on stripping and your thread caught my attention. If I read you correctly, this stripper was a 'brush on' style and you simply washed it off. How much scraping did you have to do after washing the area? Also, where did you get the Removeall 220?

Thanks again since I want to have my ducks in a row before trying to tackle this job.
Swanny -

ICI Paints carries this as Hydrostrip 502 - same product as the Napier under a different name. The ICI dealer in Round Rock had it in stock. I'm sure there would be an ICI dealer down your way.
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Old 05-13-2005, 04:10 AM   #7
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You might want to consider using Por Remover /Stripper For my 1975 25' I uses less than 1 1/2 gallons. Spray it on (they give you a bottle) and wait 30 or so seconds and scrape it off with a plastic scraper. It is unreal how fast it works. Second application, to get what stays stuck I used scotch brite.
Just a thought...
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Old 05-13-2005, 08:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
Your project is looking great. I've got a 31 ft Excella 500 that I'm debating on stripping and your thread caught my attention. If I read you correctly, this stripper was a 'brush on' style and you simply washed it off. How much scraping did you have to do after washing the area? Also, where did you get the Removeall 220?

Thanks again since I want to have my ducks in a row before trying to tackle this job.
Swanny,

I pretty much had to do no scraping at all. There were a couple of spots where I hadn't covered the skin properly, so it didn't strip everything there, but that was more my fault. A bit of a wipe with a rag over the whole door, and she was ready to go. I couldn't believe how easy it was. It makes the $50/gal price worth it.
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Old 05-13-2005, 09:38 PM   #9
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Thanks to everyone for the great tips. I think I'm sold on going with the polishing route. On another note, this model of AS has a 5-6" wide blue stripe all the way around it. When I rub my fingers across it, it feels like vinyl.

Any idea of what this material is and how do you suggest treating it? My hunch was to use Armorall or something of that nature. Thanks again for all of your tips.

Mitch
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Old 05-15-2005, 10:27 AM   #10
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I did some more stripping yesterday. Did the entire endcap, and one of the sides. This is sure an interesting stripper. You leave it on for a couple of hours after painting it on thick. Then from a distance it looks like it's dry, but if you look really close, you can see it crystalizing.

Hosing it off afterwards is fairly easy. However, a pressure washer would be nice to have.
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Old 05-15-2005, 04:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroequine
I did some more stripping yesterday. Did the entire endcap, and one of the sides. This is sure an interesting stripper. You leave it on for a couple of hours after painting it on thick. Then from a distance it looks like it's dry, but if you look really close, you can see it crystalizing.

Hosing it off afterwards is fairly easy. However, a pressure washer would be nice to have.
I don't know what stripper your using, but I don't think your supposed to leave it on that long. Probably 10-15 minutes is enough.
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Old 05-15-2005, 05:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I don't know what stripper your using, but I don't think your supposed to leave it on that long. Probably 10-15 minutes is enough.
That does seem long? The stuff I used was spray on after 30 seconds wipe off. took less than 3 hours to do the whole unit... (1 1/2 gallons did the trick)
Do think the metal may be etched?
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Old 05-15-2005, 07:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I don't know what stripper your using, but I don't think your supposed to leave it on that long. Probably 10-15 minutes is enough.
The stripper is Peroxide based, and not a solvent. Boeing approves the product as well for all of their planes. Tom @ Perfect polish said to leave it for a couple of hours, although I have found an hour to be enough. Some guys with airplanes apparantly leave it on for up to 4 hours.

It didn't etch any of the side panels as far as I can tell.
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Old 05-15-2005, 07:43 PM   #14
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Re: the picture above with the crystalizing -- it hosed right off and came out with nice clean, smooth aluminum.
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Old 05-16-2005, 04:02 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferroequine
The stripper is Peroxide based, and not a solvent. Boeing approves the product as well for all of their planes. Tom @ Perfect polish said to leave it for a couple of hours, although I have found an hour to be enough. Some guys with airplanes apparantly leave it on for up to 4 hours.

It didn't etch any of the side panels as far as I can tell.
That's good to hear. You have enough work ahead of ya!
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:37 AM   #16
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No worries!

I left my ICI Hydrostrip (same stuff as the Napier) overnight once when I ran out of time and had to run and get my children from school (trailer's 1.5 hrs from home). Aluminum was fine. Now, citri strip would be another story (it ate away the brush and container I was using when I experimented with it when I ran out of the Hydrostrip). I did find I had to apply another coat though if it dried on the metal to get it off. Depending on the heat, about 1 hours was enough for me (although the metal galvinized caps on the Argosy are still giving me fits).
Marc
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:32 PM   #17
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I finished the stripping this weekend, and started on the polish. I figured I would start from the top down. We rented some scaffolding, and ran some planks across so that we could access the top. It was also much easier to stand on the top of the scaffold and do the top curve.
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:37 PM   #18
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At this point, I've got the top done, the side done down to the middle blue strip, and the entire door. Compounded twice with F7, and then Cyclo'd with C and then S. I think we're getting somewhere!
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Old 05-23-2005, 11:07 PM   #19
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Great setup

Nice looking setup you have there. Thanks for posting the pictures. I'm taking notes from your experience for when we get to the polishing stage of our rennovation.

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Old 05-23-2005, 11:11 PM   #20
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Great Job. You're to be comended for starting at the top down.

Most of us try and skip the top and hide it

But it backfired for me since I live in a two story house

You got a great start there. Better get the sunscreen out!
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