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06-23-2006, 12:41 PM
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#81
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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I use heavy metal as well for certain panels. I like it a lot. I was going to try buffing with the heavy metal fine in leu of the cyclo step, just to see how that turns out. Geez, you think we got enough options here?
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06-23-2006, 06:58 PM
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#82
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New Member
1962 28' Ambassador
appaloosa lane
, New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1
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where do i buy this product and how much does it cost. I have a 1962 airstream 28' that has been sitting for 30 plus years. I am starting on the exterior and the body is oxidized, need help on locating this product.
Thank you all and I am new to this site and plan on discussing my project regulary. I am on the home computer and my wifes email address is phiona_61@yahoo.com
Guy Mansker
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06-23-2006, 07:02 PM
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#83
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guy mansker
where do i buy this product and how much does it cost. I have a 1962 airstream 28' that has been sitting for 30 plus years. I am starting on the exterior and the body is oxidized, need help on locating this product.
Thank you all and I am new to this site and plan on discussing my project regulary. I am on the home computer and my wifes email address is fiona_61@yahoo.com
Guy Mansker
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www.perfectpolish.com
www.vintagetrailersupply.com
Much info to be had on these two sites. Read thoroughly, it will give you a good idea of what you need to do.
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07-04-2006, 01:53 PM
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#84
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2 Rivet Member
1983 27' Excella
French Settlement
, Louisiana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 85
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A couple of questions it looks like the trim around the window has more texture than the skin?Is it best to remove the trim down the sides first ( Excella)Billy
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07-04-2006, 01:57 PM
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#85
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2 Rivet Member
1983 27' Excella
French Settlement
, Louisiana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 85
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Sorry did not realise someone had answered thank you very much.Polisghing is going goodhope to put pictures on in a few days.First pas is bad never polish and bad clear coat.Billy
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07-15-2006, 01:41 PM
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#86
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New Member
1977 24' Argosy 24
Pointe-Claire
, Quebec
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1
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1977 Argosy 24' Chalky finish
Hi Folks;
Am new to the group.
We have a 1977 Argosy that was once light grey - now dull and chalky.
Any ideals how to restore the finish ?
Thx
Jim
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07-17-2006, 02:36 PM
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#87
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MalibuJimCA
We have a 1977 Argosy that was once light grey - now dull and chalky.
Any ideals how to restore the finish ?
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Hi Jim, and welcome!
I would say you should strip & polish it , but I'm not sure if Argosys are good candidates for that. Does anyone know if they are made out of the same aluminum that Airstreams are? I guess stripping and repainting by a bodyshop is another alternative.
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07-17-2006, 04:40 PM
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#88
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2 Rivet Member
1961 16' Bambi
Eugene
, Oregon
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 46
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The end caps on Argosys are steel, so you can't do the same type polish job.
On the other hand you can get a good paint job and not have to worry about repolishing.
Cheers,
Brian
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07-17-2006, 06:58 PM
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#89
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2 Rivet Member
1965 22' Safari
Staunton
, Virginia
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 71
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The "Removall" stuff is great- the only way to go in my opinion. I used it a couple of years ago to strip our Safari after exhaustively researching all other types of paint strippers. Napier actually sent me a couple of gallons of the brush-on stuff for free, as it wasn't even on the market yet (wasn't named yet, either). They just asked me to describe my experience and take some pictures. All of the other types of paint strippers (with the exception of the citrus-based ones that don't seem to work all that well for large projects) were really very scary. I called all of the info lines, and every one of them said things like "oh, you can't just let the product fall on the ground", or mentioning that contact with bare skin was known to cause "nervous system damage". I didn't want to turn my yard into a Superfund site. Napier said that you don't have to wear gloves, and it won't even hurt your grass. It worked better than any other product of its type I have ever used. And no, I don't work for them...
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07-20-2006, 08:04 PM
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#90
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4 Rivet Member
2000 34' Limited S/O
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 374
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Strip and Polish
Is there anywhere in the Mid Atlantic region to have the stip and polish professionally done? I don't have the time nor the expertise. I would appreciate any guidance you could give me.
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07-20-2006, 10:47 PM
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#91
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1 Rivet Member
1974 25' Tradewind
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 12
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Removall
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Safari65
The "Removall" stuff is great- the only way to go in my opinion. I used it a couple of years ago to strip our Safari after exhaustively researching all other types of paint strippers.
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I totally agree, after reading through several of the threads on this forum, I saw the suggestions for it, as well as on the perfect polish site, so thought I'd give it a try. I just picked up my tradewind a few weeks ago and was curious about what it looked like under the clear coat, as it was a bit cloudy & dirty when I got it. I ordered some from vintage trailer supply & tried it out. I painted it on fairly thick & let it set for a few hours (per the directions) and the was able to just wash it off with the hose, I couldn't believe how easy it was, and was happy to see some shine coming through after I took it off..Only problem was I only ordered one gallon so need more, should get here this week to finish it off. A couple of quick before & afters on the sections I worked on attached.
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07-23-2006, 06:57 PM
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#92
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2 Rivet Member
1983 27' Excella
French Settlement
, Louisiana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 85
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is this my clear coat
Hello Everyone
Polishing going good but put on hold ,my wife had surgery and then emergency surgery..All right now or at least getting better. I have ran into something polishing ,I seem to be hitting spots of clear coat, the stripper will not remove them .If I buff over clear coat will it sett it on the aluminum can buff the spots off with F9. What do I do ? Billy
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07-23-2006, 08:29 PM
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#93
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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those spots may be the filiform corrosion spots that so many of us run into, they have to be polished out, do a search for more info.....
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07-23-2006, 09:44 PM
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#94
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,201
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I have a question
Yesterday I was taking off the old WBCCI numbers and all the silicone that someone else put on there. I took off my Airstream placard above the rear window and found a lot of corrosion under it.
My question is, when I put this back on do I seal it around the edges or do I leave it open so the water can run behind it and off the trailer ?
Should I coat the affected area with something before I put the placard back on ?
I did some cleaning a found quite a lot of corrosion today. I eventually want to polish my trailer. For now I just want to get this cleaned up.
Larger View
I posted this in my restore thread but this seemed more appropriate
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
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07-24-2006, 12:13 AM
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#95
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,201
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So far I have gotten the silicone off in the area. That was a bear. Never ever put silicone on the outside of your Airstream ! It is a PITA to get off the aluminum.
I had to use emory cloth to get the rough spots knocked down. It did polish up decent enough. I don't think that it will ever be totally gone unless I replace the panel in the center.
Here is a pic of what I have done so far. You can see near the top there is a line of pitting and the lower section is where the Airstream placard would go. I did finally find a source for the persistent leak that I have had back there too.
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
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07-24-2006, 06:05 AM
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#96
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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I am sort of in the same mode, and I wonder if I should seal the beltline area where there were leaks, before I strip the skin with Removeall.
Will the Removeall loosen the Vulkem or should I wait. I don't want the hosing and all to be leaking in where I should have sealed.
(later);
I guess aftre re-reading above posts, I should use blue masking tape to cover the sealant after I apply when I strip the panels....
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09-02-2006, 05:38 PM
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#97
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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The removall worked great, and did not effect the sealant at all. I blue taped over any plastic and removed most light lenses.
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09-02-2006, 05:44 PM
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#98
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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Skeptic review
I saw this stuff on EBAY, Purple Polish and Aluminum Oxidizer combo. Being the skeptic that I am, but also knowing sooner or later someone here would buy and try it. I did.
Well I used it on the worst areas of my trailer. The front and back domes where the clearcoat has totally burned off and the remaining aluminum was totally gray, dull, splotchy. The rest of the trailer after Removall strippping is actually pretty shiny.
The results after ten minutes, with a couple of old towels, not too much sweat, and no electric polisher used, are below. Pretty darn good I would say, and enough to motivate me to keep shining on!
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09-02-2006, 05:47 PM
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#99
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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here is the before photo and a contrast between panels....the oxidation was pretty thick
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09-02-2006, 05:57 PM
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#100
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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one down...one to go
I guess this should show befor and after.
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