refinished but not polished and roof leaks

[jaygood31]

All,

I am interested in refinishing my new (to me) '74 Overlander. I am not interested in the bright mirror finish and I have seen several mentions of soda or walnut shell blasting. Has anyone done this? What was the result? This trailer has been sitting for several years and has some minor exterior damage that short of panel replacement will not polish very well. Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated.

I am also chasing leaks. I assume it will be best to strip the clearcoat before sealing the roof penetrations, windows, and seams? The PO put sealer (silicone and others) on everything including the windows. I have been out there for the last week in heavy rain and water is coming in everywhere. Again, any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks, Jay.

[Deairstream]

I had a similar problem which, I was able to stop 95 percent so far. I removed the lower bottom section of my unit's trim where the shell and the lower section come together. This is covered by the blue weather strip. I drilled out each rivet to take off the metal strip. Before I replaced the trim, I applied a line of VUKLUM Sealant where the shell and bottom section meet and some VUKLUM sealant in each rivet hole before I installed the new rivet. I did this last fall and was able to do 3/4 of the trim around my AS. So far the sections I fixed are not leaking and the one section I was not able to get to is still leaking. I have it on my list to fix this spring as soon as it gets warm.

I also applied around my sky and roof vents a new layer of self leveling sealant for aluminum. First I removed the old sealant and clean up what I could not removed before applying the new layer. The customer service rep at Fantastic advised me to do this.
Also, replace the roof vent pipe gasket also.

I still have one small leak on the front side curve window. I sealed everything around it but it is still there. I am thinking of putting soapy water on my out skin and use the blowing end of my shop vacuum to see if I can find the leak. If it is in one of my seams

Do not use silicon sealant buy Vuklum it will stick to the AS body.

You can get it at most AS dealers but I order my items from Inland RV in California. They were very helpful and I received my order very quick (in NJ). You can even talk to someone there also.

[Wabbiteer]

Get to the roof and inspect or replace the plumbings vent gaskets - a sheet of rubber is pulled over the PVC pipe and then clamped to the roof by the aluminum casting. IT really does keep water from chasing down into the trailer and they weather fairly fast. There is a drain hole on the down slope side of the aluminum that needs to be kept open - all sorts of debris builds up in that cavity!

On my '73 the band clamps holding the vent pipe 'up' relaxed and allowed the pipe to settle below the shell line. BAD mojo on that - stack fumes in the trailer; get out there and check it!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by jaygood31

All,

I am interested in refinishing my new (to me) '74 Overlander. I am not interested in the bright mirror finish and I have seen several mentions of soda or walnut shell blasting. Has anyone done this? What was the result? This trailer has been sitting for several years and has some minor exterior damage that short of panel replacement will not polish very well. Any and all suggestions will be much appreciated.

I am also chasing leaks. I assume it will be best to strip the clearcoat before sealing the roof penetrations, windows, and seams? The PO put sealer (silicone and others) on everything including the windows. I have been out there for the last week in heavy rain and water is coming in everywhere. Again, any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks, Jay.

Jay.

The only real way to solve the leak issue, is to strip the trailer.

That will remove all the old clear coat, which would be a sealer barrier, as well as the old silicone sealers.

Then, you can properly seal all the seams using Vulkem for the large seams and Par Bond for the small seams.

Replace the sewer vwent pipe cover gaskets, and seal around the black pipe to gasket area, when you do.

If not already replaced, you will probably find the window, access door and entrance door gaskets have all gone south.

Clean the glass to metal frame gasket on all the fixed windows. Apply Vulkem sealer to completely cover that gasket.

Apply Vulkem sealer to the top and sides of all the windows.

Inspect all the sheet metal seals for any gaps, and correct as necessary..

Replacing those, and sealing properly, will complete the water leak problem, other than perhaps any missing rivets.

After the window gaskets have been replaced, adjust all the locking latches.

That should complete the project and make the interior of the trailer, waterproof.

At a later date, if you wish, you can reclear coat the trailer.

Andy