Polishing Question - Go to F9?

[photomikey2]

Received my F7 from VTS a few days ago. Finally got time to start last night. Did a 3'x3' area. I am unimpressed. Still lots of oxidation and pitting:



Go over it again with F7, or get some F9? Is there a place to get F9 locally, or do I have to wait another week+ for VTS to ship it?

[1953 Flying]

You might not be able to get all of the pitting to go away. It also looks like you have some polishing remaining in the pits them selves. I used corn starch and a micro fiber towel to get rid of the remaining amount. So, I don't know if F9 is needed. I do know as I went along from F7 all the way down to the S the pitting and swirl mark were less noticeable. It looks like your doing a fantastic job though.

Nu Vite is local here in N. Calif. He's real quick to ship things out and it's two day's shipping UPS ground from here to there.

[c_lewis77]

What buffing pads are you using? I found that the right pads make a big difference! I used the twisted wool pads from VTS and they did a good job.
I used F9 in some difficult/ heavily oxidized areas; it seemed to work well.

Just keep swimming! Mine has some pitting.... its barely noticeable.

[InsideOut]

What kind of compounder are you using or did you go stright in with a CycloPolisher? Usually several passes with a compounder are required for a first-time polishing job...we have used the Nivite products with great sucess following the techniques (Compound first, then Cyclo) described on the Perfect Poish website.

Shari

[KristinS]

I'm having the same problem: Compounded my '65 with a wool pad from VTS, but using Nuvite G6 (we have pretty bad oxidation). After a couple passes, it still looks like this. I've read a few recommendations for wet sanding but it really scares me to try. Maybe on the roof or something, but for now I'm just trying to do the areas that I have to reinstall lights and trim.

[c_lewis77]

I had to use nuvite F9 to get some of the corrosion off. That might be worth trying before wet sanding

[KristinS]

Thanks for the tip, I will try that!

[c_lewis77]

Insideout make a good point too; equipment is important. From my experience, getting the sweet spot on rpm's with the rotary polisher will make the process go smoother. If I remember it was in the 2800/3000 range with a twisted wool bonnet (the VTS variety). I also wiped down the area with mineral spirits/ soapy water after each pass to get all the polish residue out. the F9/7 will put swirls in the finish, but will come out with subsequent passes of the G6 and S.
Good luck! Post progress pics!

[tkasten]

Ditto with c_lewis77 above. I tried G6 and found that it only cut for a short time. 7 worked well for me but some areas took up to 5 passes before all oxidation was gone.

[KristinS]

I can't thank you all enough for your helpful advice. This forum has been such a godsend for first-time Airstream owners like us. I have a renovation thread in the '65 Overlander forum if you want to follow our progress. So far we just have an empty, partially-polished shell on blocks, but she's making progress from the stinky, rotting mess she was when we bought her!

[KristinS]

I did 5 passes with Nuvite F9 today and it still has bad filiform corrosion where the holes were for the plaque to attach. It still feels rough to the touch. Do I need to wet sand? I'm so scared that I'll mess up the cladding badly and have to replace the aluminum. Any pointers for wet sanding?

Thanks!!

[Melody Ranch]

When you run into a polish problem like scratches or severe corrosion forget the Nuvite route. Take a look at Jetsco or Caswell sites and info. I have found that the sewn cotton wheels and the hello wheel get it done. Use a grinder type buffer. Use the polish bars (inexpensive). Finish up with a cycle and Nuvite S.http://www.jestcoproducts.com

[KristinS]

Thanks, will try that. The surface corrosion is pretty rough to the touch though - will the cotton wheel be enough? It looks like filiform that started from the holes where the plaque attaches through the skin.