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Old 10-08-2002, 07:12 PM   #1
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Polishing Blues.

I have heard that the cyclo with the nuvite/rolite is the way to go. I don't really have the money now for the cyclo. I have tried a 10 inch orbital polisher with little luck but I keep getting a milky film. I find that if I hand apply mothers polish using a lot of pressure for on and off, I can get a decent shine. I have already used the aircraft stripper to get the clearcoat off. Am i trying to use products that will not work? If I get the cyclo/nuvite combo is it going to work like magic? Has anyone else gone from the cheapy polisher to the cyclo and what are the results. I might also add that I heard temperature makes a difference. I live in the desert and it is hot at night, so I must wait a while if it needs to be cool. I'm not doing it in the sun.
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Old 10-08-2002, 07:35 PM   #2
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What polishes are you using? How bad is the finish now? Milky as in white film?

I need a little more info and maybe I can give you some info based on my polishing experience.
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Old 10-08-2002, 09:50 PM   #3
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Milky patches and polishing

This previous thread has many of your answers!

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ghlight=rolite

Good luck!!

DMC
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Old 10-09-2002, 07:04 AM   #4
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Ken, the trailer was heavily oxidized so I started with aircraft stripper. That made a big improvement. The only thing was that it left some spider vein type lines slightly visable. I used Never Dull on a portion of the trailer and that worked well but is a little dificult to apply and remove the residue. Then I used Mothers Polish with a 10 inch orbital polisher. I used about a tablespoon on about a 4 foot by 4 foot section, is that too much or too little? I ran the polisher about 2 minutes on the 4x4 section, is that not long enough? This left the finish not shiny, a milky white film with no mirror reflection. However if I dip a rag in the mothers and hand buff it for a small section in will end up with a clear finish. Or the Never Dull by hand does pretty well, but man is that hard. Thanks for you're help.
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Old 10-09-2002, 08:48 AM   #5
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I can give you my experience based on keeping up two trailers and reading lots about polishing over the past five years. I have used only Rollite products although I plan to try Nuvite this spring.

There are three grades so you start with the lightest if that does not work then go to a heavier grade. I use a DeWalt polisher that seems to work well. Generally if your trailer is heavily oxidized then you want a more powerful machine than a cyclo or orbital polisher. I think the cyclo is more for finish work.

I'm not sure what the white milk is other than I wonder if maybe you got all the clearcoat off. You can test this with toothpaste - rub in on if your cloth turns black you don't have any clear coat, if not you still have clearcoat on. Two minutes for heavy oxidation probably won't do it.

Polishing is a messy not-to-difficult-but-time-comsuming project, take your time and you will be pleased with the results.

Keep the questions coming a I will do my best to answer.
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Old 10-10-2002, 07:03 AM   #6
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Did you try any store bought polishes or did you go straight to the rolite. If so, was there a big difference?
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Old 10-10-2002, 10:14 AM   #7
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Yes I did - tried Meguires (sp?), dupont compound, and even heard that cameo pot cleaner worked well. Bought a $10 can of Rollite polish and viola, it worked really good. So then I got a $45 can of their tough stuff (forget the exact name) - then the $10 can then the $45 can of AP-300 then a $16 bottle of sealer. Lots of hours, but it came our really well. If you want you can see my Traveler at www.vintageairstream.com - its the first set of 59 Traveler pictures in the archive section. You will see some fine swirl marks in the finish which over successive annual updates with ap-300 and sealer are mostly gone.

In fact this is my annual polish update weekend on the Traveler. I do the Tradewind in the spring.
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Old 10-10-2002, 11:45 AM   #8
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I love your trailer. In fact my wife put that on our favorites list. Every time I polish the trailer I ask her if it looks like that one(yours). We got ours about a month ago. Just finished putting in Pergo type flooring and we had the cushions re-covered. Have not tried the toothpick test yet but I will. I'll try to post some pictures.
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Old 10-10-2002, 11:51 AM   #9
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Thanks

Keep at it, be patient - - you WILL get there.

Feel free to ask more questions as you go - its been about a 5 year learning process for me - I'm still learning

As I think I said, next spring I'm going to try Nuvite on the Tradewind.
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Old 10-10-2002, 01:23 PM   #10
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I purchase the Rolite products

And was disappointed! A waste of money after finishing the project with Nuvite. The coarsest grade of Rolite is not abrasive enough to remove tough oxidation and or the dreaded MILKY PATCHES.

Numbers speak loader than my words, see the poll on this thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ghlight=rolite

DMC
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Old 10-10-2002, 01:26 PM   #11
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AND !

hand polishing with ANY product puts much greater preasure,
with better results then ANY mechanical device.

BUT unless you already have (or want) arms like Popeye's,

GO for the dual cyclo!

DMC
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Old 10-10-2002, 01:42 PM   #12
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I disagree,,, Rolite worked just fine. And a machine will always be faster/easier than hand. You can put as much pressure as you want on a machine. Cyclo will not work well for badly oxidized surfaces.

As I understand it Nuvite is easier to use. In fact I've heard from others that Rolite is better for the badly oxidized skin and Nuvite is easier to use for the finish work.

The reason I have not used Nuvite yet for my yearly updates is because its finish product has a slight "cut" to it whereas Rollite AP-300 is a zero cut.

I not intending to say one is better than another, just that they will both work fine.
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Old 10-10-2002, 04:13 PM   #13
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Rolite v.s Nuvite

Ken ... i'm so upset ... im seeing double posts!! (Just kidding)

I think though (unlike other posts) ... as gentlemen we can agree to disagree without dising each others point of view. I have used both products extensively and hold to my opinion. I respect yours! On the other hand ... want to buy my unused Rolite?

I have NO use for it after experiencing Nuvite!

DMC
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Old 10-10-2002, 04:54 PM   #14
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Oh I agree. This is not a my polish is better than your polish type post.
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Old 10-10-2002, 05:14 PM   #15
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A good point and thank you!

Good point about the zero cut for Rolite AP300 in your eariler post...

Now that the dirtiest work is done ... I will try the AP300 again
and see what it does for final finish!

Thank you,

Respectfully,

DMC
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Old 10-11-2002, 10:35 PM   #16
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Mind if I jump in with a question? You both sound like you know what your talking about so here goes.

My trailer has clearcoat on the sides, the roof clearcoat is gone and some not so heavy oxidation in its place. The clearcoat that is still there has cracks in it with oxidation in the cracks.

Ok I'll get to the point. I was planning on removing a section of clearcoat at a time and polish as I go. Should I srip it with aircraft stripper? Will the stripper destroy all my waterproofing measures, vulkum? Maybe I could be really carefull not to let the stripper run. Wipe it of as best I can then hose it down with water.

What do you think? Rob
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Old 10-12-2002, 12:22 AM   #17
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Aircraft Stripper!

On the question of strippers, I used Aircraft Stripper from
AutoZone. I used both the cans of toxic gue and the spray on cans.

I found that the spray on was particularily good to use on the top curved panels and the roof. (hard to reach areas) Those surfaces I washed down the hose.

On the vertical surfaces I was more inclined (ha ha) to use the
toxic gue. I poured it into an old small can and swabbed it on with a 4" paint brush. (Smaller brushes in tight spots).

After waiting for appropriate bubbling to occur (varies by temp, age, and condition of clear coat) I would brush downward with another large brush and then follow up with numerous terry cloth towels, ... at times this had to be repeated till all signs of clear coat were gone. Again rinsed it all.

My "original" Waterproofing included window glazing, silicone,
other unknown yucky stuff, and 35 year old vulkem.
Anything that the stripper didn't remove, I have had to remove
and re-vulkem anyway.

DMC
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Old 10-12-2002, 12:24 AM   #18
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A panel at a time.

Strip the whole darn thing first. Once you get polishing,

You won't want to stop.


DMC
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Old 10-12-2002, 07:42 AM   #19
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I agree - I don't have a better stripper than your stripper (hee hee)

Anyway, folks seem to have have good luck with Bix - probably what you got at autozone.
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Old 10-12-2002, 07:57 AM   #20
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While on the subject, I mentioned that I was going to do my annual update on the Traveler this weekend. No can due because temp is to low. It should be 65 or above. As I understand it - if the skin is cool and the polisher heats it up, you will get uneven polishing. At least thats what the airplane experts says who has been doing this polishing thing for a long long time.

I may have put this off too long this year, hopefully we will get some 70 degree days here. Would hate to have to do two trailers in the spring - my plan is to do the Tradewind in the spring and Traveler in the fall.
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