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Old 09-11-2003, 12:46 PM   #21
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Question Why?

Safari Tim

Okay, I grant you that, "learning by trial and error" works. But, why beat yourself to pieces when I suggested a alt.??

Give it a try..
  • 1. Compound polish with G6...This means the entire panel that your working on..Don't switch to anything else until that panel is done..
    2. Compound polish with C
    3. Switch over to F7 with the Cyclo polisher and, do the entire panel.
    4.Cyclo polish with S, to finis the job.
BTW, in between the polish stages, be real sure you clean everything with a nice soft flannel cloth..CLEAN the rivet heads in between each step, etc..
You can end up with something like this...(Just did it this morning and, this was with not even using the S polish yet..)
I called "Perfect Polish" and they said that order was scheduled for delivery today...I'll do the final stage with the S polish when I get my hands on it..
As always, good luck~!!
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Old 09-11-2003, 04:30 PM   #22
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Thanks for your input. I don't doubt you either.

I just don't have any G6 and *the boss* keeps seeing receipts for "all that polishing stuff".

Between the tools and polish I have about $500 invested so far. And I still have three mouths to feed

I'm just trying to work with what I got for now. I may have to order a real backing plate and 3M pad from perfect polish anyway so I might get some G6 to try out.

I'll try and get some pic's tonight if I get some time to polish polish polish......
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:07 PM   #23
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Got a about 2.5 hours in tonight. Makes it about 3.5 hours total so far.

I contiuned to compound with F7 and had somewhat of a revelation. I sure everyone else already knows this

I found that if you move the compounder VERY slowly it works much better.

Anyway, I got a pretty good shine with swirls as to be expected. I may experiment some tomorrow and compound with C over the spots I just did. Looks really good a couple of feet away.

Do most people compound then cyclo and finish all the way each segment as they go? Or do they compound the whole trailer then go back and cyclo? Just curious.

Here are some pictures I promised.
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:09 PM   #24
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Here's another....
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:10 PM   #25
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One more...
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:25 PM   #26
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Thumbs up Really NICE~

Safari Tim

That looks nice~!
Likewise....I hear you about the others...
It's about the same amount here as well..But, the way I look at it, the Cyclo is an investment toward the care of the A/S..It will always be a part of the inventory. lol

As far as the steps toward polishing the unit..I've combined what's been recommended with, the condition of the aluminum skin.

You might want to try a small can of G6 first, just to see how it will work for you. I'd give Tom a call..(tell him you want a sample..lol)

Again, I hear you about the cost..The stuff is expensive~

Have you done any research yet on what to use to "preserve" the polish surface once your finis??

In reply to your question..I'd just do a sectional piece at a time..completely, before moving on to the next section..Like that upper panel you've started on..
In my case, the only reason why I moved on was the lack of S polishing compound and, time~
BTW, I did get my package from 'PerfectPolish' today, just haven't had a chance to open it yet..First thing in the morning...
I don't know about you but, at times I have trouble remembering what's been done. lol
Again, continue good luck~(it's a lot of work but...)

ciao
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:34 PM   #27
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Any tricks to cycloing?

I have the sweatshirt material and rubber bonets suggested by perfect polish. I tried it a little and found the the weight and movement of the cyclo is much more difficult than the compounding portion.

Do you move the cyclo up/down or left/right or does it matter? Do you push down hard or let the weight of the machine do the work?

I tested a little with it with C and S and did not see much improvement but I may have been moving it too fast.

Any cycloing tips will help!
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Old 09-11-2003, 10:42 PM   #28
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Tim ~ You may want to check out a Vintage Rally for some polishing tips. Usually someone will be demonstrating or would be happy to help you on your own trailer if you bring it. If a rally isn't feasible, contact a VAC member in your area, there are lots of folks in No. Calif...any volunteers? We'd love to show you what works for us...but we're a bit too far for a demo! Unless you have a trip to Denver planned...

Another idea, have you checked out the Swift Polishing Video? It can also be found on the Perfect Polish site. We found it to be very helpful, even though they demonstrate on an airplane. It helps to see "live action" polishing rather than relying on only words...

Good luck, what you've done so far looks good!

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Old 09-12-2003, 12:00 AM   #29
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Thumbs up All too true..

Safari Tim...

InsideOut (Shari) made a excellent point abt the video..

Concerning the movement of the Cyclo polisher:

I usually try to move from left to right and, then after several passes(depending on the results) switch the move to down and up. I'll rotate back to the sideway to try to smooth it out.
It also has alot to do with how I feel..As you know this lil puppy is heavy and, I find that, I'll switch position due to fatigue.. The other trick is, not to use too much polish at one time.
The amount of pressure really depends on which stage of polishing your at. In any event, I've never used any really hard pressure.
In comparison with the compounding polisher, I use very little pressure when using the Cyclo polisher. The trick is: To get as nice as finish as possible plus, I want to be able to watch for any changes in the appearances of the shine..
It's been stressed in all the reading materials to use the amount of polish sparingly. For lack of better wording, a dab or two about 1/2 the size of a MM works. I hit the machine on it first to smear it around then, switch on the polisher. BTW, you hit right on the head, slower speed is better. I have to admit, at times, I find myself speeding it up and, it just depends where you are at in the polishing process.
Again, Shari's suggestion is an excellent one..

ciao
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Old 09-12-2003, 06:57 AM   #30
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Just one question Polishers......

How are you going to do the area around the A-I-R-S-T-R-E-A-M letters

I am having a hard time getting *4* coats of paint off of my gas bottles. I may try "Aircraft Stripper", but am afraid of the toxicity of the stuff. Tractor Supply has what looks like a 7 gallon container of glass beads for $29. I may go that route instead.
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Old 09-12-2003, 07:26 AM   #31
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Lightbulb Good question

I may have to do that by hand..As the letters are not coming off..
ciao
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Old 09-12-2003, 12:22 PM   #32
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Thanks for the ideas.

I did get to go to the silver trailer gathering at Calistoga, CA this year. That is where I saw a demo on the compounding. I did not stay long enough to see the cyclo demo though.

It did get me excited enough and enough confidence to give it a try.

I am getting more comfortable with the techniques as I go. Just like everything else with this trailer I had to learn a new trade

I picked up a real backing plate and a 3M wool compounding pad today. I also ordered an adapter and pad cleaner from perfect polish. So I'm sure this will help speed things along.

I had been using a cheapo rubber backing plate and cheap wool pad. The backing plate is already deforming from use. So I new I had to get the real one. I finally found it at an automotive type paint store.

I am just a questioning kind of guy. I ask about every aspect of things until I understand them. I hope I'm not bugging everyone too much....

My wife says that I like talking the airstream more than actually using it!

Full cyclo ahead ....
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Old 09-12-2003, 09:02 PM   #33
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Cool If I may

Safari Tim
Quote:
I just don't have any G6 and *the boss* keeps seeing receipts for "all that polishing stuff".
If I may suggest :

Let your wife feel really important by giving her..her own account and, then...you can control your own spending spree...lol

After a few days of using the craftman polisher/sander, I decided to take it back and, exchange it for a 1/2 drill..My order from "PP" came in..The new attachments required the use of 1/2 drill.
The nice thing abt this whole transaction was; I got to keep the tool bag from the previous tool, plus the drill being on sales..they gave me another 10% discount..Craftman's model 900 drill is really neat too..I can't wait to try it out in the morning..~
Will post some pictures of that in the near future..
Finally got the S polishing compound as well..We'll see what that does to the overall finis..
That's about it..Polishing time gonna be rough what with two 12hour shift back to back..Gotta keep moving...lmao

As for cost:
All of the tools bought will go into the overall care and, maintenance of this unit..Well worth the efforts.
Keep up the good work Tim..
ciao
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Old 09-12-2003, 09:51 PM   #34
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I don't think I need the G6 yet.

My problem was wrong technique and I bet the new 3M pad will make a difference. I won't be able to try it though until next week when the adapter comes in from perfectpolish.

BTW the perfectpolish website suggests, compounding with F7, cycloing with F7 then the final step cycloing with S.

Of course they do say it all depends on the condition of the metal. So who knows.

But I am satisfied so far with my results.

I have one side that is always in the Sun after work. So I plan on starting that side tomorrow, since I can work in the morning on Saturdays.

Hopefully post some more pics tomorrow night...
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Old 09-12-2003, 11:16 PM   #35
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I Love G6

I don't think I could polish without G6!! ....

It is designed to start coarse and break down during the process.

F7 remains medium coarse through out the polishing.

I have had many fussy spots (Milky being the worst) wacked and shined by G6!

Get some G6 ... you won't be sorry!

Add another weapon to the mechanical and chemical attack on your trailer!!

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Old 09-14-2003, 08:06 PM   #36
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I got started polishing today and read this post cover to cover several times before starting.
I've got three things figured out.

1. Once started you can't go back.
2. Type of polish or makes no difference unless you do an absolut "perfect" strip job.
3. I'm to stuborn to learn from others and trying to do it with the things I already own instead of starting out with all the right tools.

After doing the top front panel about 4,000 times I realized you can't polish enough to remove the clearcoat.
After striping the door I polished the top half with Southern Shine and the bottom half with M.A.A.S couldn't tell the difference. I can read my t-shirt logo looking into the door. Will have to start over the top front panel. Looks like crap and all scratched up. Will have to wet sand paper before trying to polish that area again.
Door took around 2 hrs start to finish. Striped it with Aircraft stripper twice before starting to polish.

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Old 09-14-2003, 11:38 PM   #37
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Talking Cool Garry, Join the polishing club!

I have been experimenting polishing on my trailer. I found that these guys are right. I broke down and ordered some Nuvite G6.

Saturday morning I ran into some really tough spots on my main door. I think there was a small amount of clear coat left. Man is that impossible to polish off. I polished for about 2.5 hours on the top 6 inches of my door.

I will hopefully by Tuesday be able to start a new with my new 3M compounding wool pad and G6 in hand!

Can't wait.

Good luck to all who attempt this!!
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Old 09-15-2003, 03:30 PM   #38
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Did I read this correctly?

Garry

Quote:
After striping the door I polished the top half with Southern Shine and the bottom half with M.A.A.S couldn't tell the difference. I can read my t-shirt logo looking into the door. Will have to start over the top front panel. Looks like crap and all scratched up. Will have to wet sand paper before trying to polish that area again.
Note: I added the colors for edification purpose..

Does this mean that the "top panel" that, you referred to is the one that you cleaned with SS? Or, is it that, it looks like crap for some other reason?

Could you clear this up for me? Confused because you also said,
Quote:
couldn't tell the difference
ciao
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Old 09-15-2003, 06:43 PM   #39
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Sorry for the
The top front panel is next to the front window and it was scratched (by me) really bad. A tarp was over the front a long time ago and where the duct tape held the tarp left a discoleration and some scratching from the cover movement I made it worse using a scrub pad.
On the entrance door I striped and used SS on the top half and M.S.S.A. on the bottom half of the door. They both look good but don't have the deep shine I want. I will p/u up the 3M pads in the AM but won't have the HF buffer until Sat. I was using a Clyco on the door.
Today I used 600 - 1500 then 2000 grit wet dry sand paper and the scratches on the front panel are all but gone only the deeeper ones remain and you can barley see them.
Tomorrow it's back to striping.
MSSA is a paste polish I found at WalMart some time back when my wife was having problems cleaning some aluminum. Works good and less than $3 tube. I plan to do the Trailer Trash method starting Sat. using SS but will test the MSSA futher since I only have two of the SS.


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Old 09-15-2003, 10:46 PM   #40
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You guys are making me so jealous, my AS was polished by the PO, but now it's looking pretty foggy compared to how well yours are shining up. I'm definitly getting more excited about re-polishing it after seeing these results! Keep up the good work (big thumbs up)!
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