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Old 04-25-2008, 07:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ve7rye
Hi Guys I have 26' trailer to strip I have hung out with some car restorers . What they use to remove clear coat and paint is corn starch or baking soda. They sand blast the surface and the baking soda dicinagrates on impact and is soft enough that it will not heat or warp the outside skin
anybody have any oppinions?
What your friends are doing for cars, is fine, because they will paint the cars with primer, and then a color.

If you attempt to do that on your Airstream, you will ruin the finish of the sheet metal. That's not a good thing if you plan on clear coating the trailer again.

Clear coats are removed with a good stripper, that will not attack the metal.

Aircraft stripper does a good job, but is not cheap.

Cheap strippers do not do a good job, unless you do the trailer several times. By that time, you have spent as much money as the Aircraft stripper would cost, plus all the time you will have to spend.

Essentially, automotive painters are in the dark, when it comes to painting an Airstream.

No acids of any kind should ever be used on the exterior, or you will eventually pay dearly, if you do.

Andy
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:35 AM   #22
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Stripping Clear coat

First of all I totally agree with Andy, I would never use any kind of blasting technique with an airstream no matter how friendly the media is on a car.

Secondly, I have not used the Citristrip mentioned but again, the Napier product was almost EASY to use. I did it on my front lawn (in a nice residential neighbourhood) in one day. I blasted it with the power washer and the clearcoat blasted right off. I was all over my grass and did not even kill the grass. In fact in a day or so I had a 25 foot green oval on the lawn where the grass grew faster because of all the water I was dumping on the trailer!
RemovALL 220 - Industrial Paint Stripper Brushable Grade by Napier Environmental

I think this is the link you want. This will not burn your skin, you can walk away and leave this stuff on the trailer for hours and it will not dry and go hard like automotive/aircraft stripper. I wish I had known about this product when I was doing my last car restoration.
Best of luck. ( I might have a couple pictures if you need to see it)

vintagemike
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Old 04-27-2008, 10:08 AM   #23
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So if stripping is resolved with RemovAll220 or Citristrip (no acid washes please), what are the options for coating and protecting? Are there options other than new Plasticoat/Clearcoat/Mirror Polishing or Painting? I am not interested in a mirror shine, nor in painting, nor re-coating with the same Clearcoat/Plasitcoat. Is there a "natural" coating available that lasts longer and is easier to apply than what A/S coated mine in as new (early '90's era)?
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:35 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ts8501
So if stripping is resolved with RemovAll220 or Citristrip (no acid washes please), what are the options for coating and protecting? Are there options other than new Plasticoat/Clearcoat/Mirror Polishing or Painting? I am not interested in a mirror shine, nor in painting, nor re-coating with the same Clearcoat/Plasitcoat. Is there a "natural" coating available that lasts longer and is easier to apply than what A/S coated mine in as new (early '90's era)?

The most recent Clear coat, is a 2 part mixture.

It basically lasts 5 to 6 years as well.

There is "no" other product that you can use.

Automotive clear is designed to adhere to paint, not raw metal.

You have several choices.

1. Re clear coat the trailer.

2. Paint the trailer metallic silver, using primer etc.

3. Strip the trailer and polish it, but you must wax it once a month.

4. Strip the trailer, polish it, reapply clear coat.

5. Wear very dark sun glasses, so you don't see the problem.

6. Have another beer and forget the whole thing.

There is no known simple easy way.

Andy
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