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Old 04-05-2006, 11:51 AM   #1
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Cleaning before re-sealing?

I want to re-seel a few joints, but before applying the sikaflex, is there a preferred method for cleaning the area in question? Should the old sealant be completely removed and the aluminum cleaned? If so, how do you do this and what sorts of cleaners or solvents do you use?

Cheers!
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:41 PM   #2
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Don't use my method.

I use a pressure washer. Blasted all the seams.

Lots of dirt and corruption comes out. Lots of water goes in.

This only works if you have the inside skins off and the insulation out.
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:55 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Don't use my method.

I use a pressure washer. Blasted all the seams.

Lots of dirt and corruption comes out. Lots of water goes in.

This only works if you have the inside skins off and the insulation out.
I'm trying to prevent more water from coming in, so I will definitely not be using your method!
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:30 PM   #4
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Cameron,
A plastic brush and a mild detergent, then a plastic brush and some mineral spirits. That will get it as clean as it is going to get. Then use Vulkem or Parbond caulk.

Aaron
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Cameron,
A plastic brush and a mild detergent, then a plastic brush and some mineral spirits. That will get it as clean as it is going to get. Then use Vulkem or Parbond caulk.

Aaron
Thanks Aaron!
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:54 PM   #6
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I love the par bond it is so easy to work with on seams and small gaps. And it matches great. I also like the alcoa gutter seal both of these products come in small tubes whith small tips.



Becky
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Old 04-05-2006, 03:00 PM   #7
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Becky,
Alcoa gutter seal is good stuff too. I failed a drug test one time because of that stuff

Aaron
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Old 04-05-2006, 07:23 PM   #8
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Have any of you used Sikaflex?
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Old 04-05-2006, 07:35 PM   #9
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I use parbond with a 30ml syringe, and Sikaflex for larger seams.
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Old 04-05-2006, 07:42 PM   #10
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While I agree that Par-Bond and Sikaflex are great for large work, I prefer the pinpoint accurace of Acryl-R. It comes in a little can that a grease gun style dispenser fits on. You just squeeze the trigger to apply. It has a very fine tip and gets into those open seams perfectly
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Old 04-06-2006, 12:15 PM   #11
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Cool

Aaron,
How in the world did you fail a drug test with gutter seal or should I ask.



Becky
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Old 04-06-2006, 01:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebel beck
I love the par bond it is so easy to work with on seams and small gaps. And it matches great. I also like the alcoa gutter seal both of these products come in small tubes whith small tips.



Becky
I think some of the gutter sealers are a silicon product and may not hold up to temperature extremes with movement.
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebel beck
Aaron,
How in the world did you fail a drug test with gutter seal or should I ask.



Becky
Hehe...the base chemical is Methyl Ethyl Ketone...among others. I had been working in the shop on a rainy day...apparently with insufficent ventilation Went to take a drug screen for a upcoming project and tested postive for something really obscure, like mushrooms The tech was kind of puzzled, and asked me to come back in the morning for a retest. I tested clean the next morning. We finally figured our that the MEK probably gave me the false positive.

Aaron
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
I think some of the gutter sealers are a silicon product and may not hold up to temperature extremes with movement.
Trust me the Alcoa IS NOT silicone it is a MEK based sealant and it work great, in fact try to get it off of anything once it dries. I haven't tried the Acryl-R...yet, but it looks like good stuff at $2 an ounce it better be.

Aaron
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
Trust me the Alcoa IS NOT silicone it is a MEK based sealant and it work great, in fact try to get it off of anything once it dries. I haven't tried the Acryl-R...yet, but it looks like good stuff at $2 an ounce it better be.

Aaron
Isn't Acryl-R what the factory uses now for a number of different applications? If so, you can buy a good sized oil-type can at the factory store for about $20 and they will fill it (and refill the can as you need more) from their bulk supply for about a couple dollars. I got some there
over a year ago, and it's good as new, and ready whenever I need it. That stuff works great.

John
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