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Old 11-10-2011, 10:56 AM   #21
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
Spokane , Washington
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From Rednax:

"And as you can see from the photos, he also uses [6] 3-lb cans of CRISCO on the wall next to the parking spot. Beef tallow was good enough to grease the skids for Titanic, but, noooo, those Californio's have to have the vegan alternative.

Then again, considering the fate of the White Star liner, perhaps all that tofu, tarot card, astrology stuff has something to it after all."

Now THAT, is funny!

Feeling obligated to wax my trailer I was looking for something good but easy. I stumbled onto a synthetic that is formulated for clearcoats and can be applied to rubber trim, plastic lenses and all sorts of other things you find on your typical car. It is Turtle Wax Ice. It is a clear liquid that wipes on and wipes off. It is very EASY to apply and lasts through the summer, at least for me. I really like it on my TV because it also brightens all the black stuff like mirrors and door accents on my Tundra.
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:55 AM   #22
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Another vote for NuFinish.
Picked up some Griots based on Bob's recommendation, but having never used it, I was afraid to apply yesterday in full sun.
Exactly four hours to wax from stem to stern.
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:41 AM   #23
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NuFinish. I started using it in 1981 on my 1972 Pinto. I stopped using it when I went to reapply another coat 2-3 months later. The same reason I detest using it resurfaced when my Great Uncle decided it was the thing to use on his $50,000 Lexus a couple of years back and I was the lucky fellow to do the chore. Let me explain...

True, by the standards consumer's reports uses to measure 'durability' almost all of what is applied the first coat remains - but it turns into it something resembling transparent road tar over time.

On trying to reapply a second coat it best resemble 3M spray adhesive the very minute fresh wax touches it. When you are waxing by hand it at least triples the work effort required to melt through the old coating and penetrate down to the paint. One might think that is a good thing, that it has good 'bite', but it has softened and holds soot and abrasive dust if judging by the dirty polisher bonnets or terry-cloth towels or new spider-web swirls in the paint, and the new-finish build up also can help keep blobs of water reforming in the same places that can burn through the clear coat with acid rain or other fallout.

Just saying - if it looks too good to be true it usually is...

And no I don't have a good recommendation, I use NXT wax that reflects UV and gives my tow vehicle a violet glow for a month-plus after I wax it
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:26 AM   #24
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2013 27' FB Eddie Bauer
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Question-- is it safe to use the Griots One-Step Sealant instead of the Griots Paint Sealant? I recently purchased a 2013 AS with some very minor scratches etc--I want to get this baby in tip-top shape, so I've been scouring the forums for the best process.

Griots has both the One-Step Sealant (which the co says is the paint sealant with added machine polish 3 and should be applied with the orange correcting pads) and is readily available in Advance Auto Parts stores, versus the regular Griots Paint Sealant, which has to ordered from Griots or Amazon and only ground ships, but doesn't include the machine polish 3. ???

Thanks for any advice.

BTW - What I've deduced to be the best steps for cleaning and protecting a newer AS from the forums are:
1. Pre-Wash
2. Wash thoroughly
3. Clay bar
4. Sealant (a la Griots Paint Sealant or Liquid Glass)
5. Spray on wax

If I am mistaken with any of these steps, please advise. Thanks in advance!

-Kelly
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:25 AM   #25
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Always a fun discussion. Odd that there's no activity in 3 weeks. Many people with great input and experience. Robert, Bob and Howard. What I have gleaned, " it's not so much what you use but that you use it religiously ".
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:37 PM   #26
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Ridgefield , Washington
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Because my AS has a clear coat finish (as do all newer models), I've treated it like my cars and used automotive wash and wax that's safe for clear coat finishes. My brand of choice for both the wash and wax is Meguiars. The wash is less likely to remove the existing wax finish than other types of soap, and the liquid wax goes on and comes off easy. My AS is now 14 years old and the finish looks like new.
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:34 PM   #27
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Liquid Glass - hands down!


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:17 AM   #28
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Resurrected thread!
I can provide an update on my 9/2012 post... I tried the Griots, and was not impressed. The Nufinish keeps the water beading up almost the whole season, while the Griots seemed to wear off in a month.

Also, I've been Nufinish'ing our rig since it was factory new, and there is VERY little filiform....
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Old 08-06-2017, 12:35 PM   #29
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2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
Northern , Illinois
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Got this GREAT info totally by accident.

I'm a newby. Very first season of trailering/camping.

Decisions, decisions, decisions.
I can't believe one video made everything as clear as this one.

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Old 08-06-2017, 01:18 PM   #30
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I am ridiculous on the matter of waxes. I buy what I am told works best. I am always coming away with a bottle of something.

When I went to JC I came home with a bottle of Walburnize, Rejex and something else.

I have found through my own experimentation that the Carnuba waxes get oily in the sun here. The greasy look is noticeable on a darker colored car. They bead up but don't last.

What works well for me is Meguire's Ultimate Liquid Wax and their magic formula Scratch X 2.0. I shared my findings with an RV detailer on the 2.0 and now he uses it. He could not believe how it removed surface scratches in clear coat.

Like the video said, a synthetic is better for 6-12 month wax jobs. I agree. I used NuFinish for many years as a polisher/cleaner.
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