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Old 04-12-2015, 08:03 AM   #1
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Austin , Kentucky
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Will Roof Support My Weight?

I'm experiencing some leaks in an aftermarket ceiling fan in my 2010 Sport 16. I can't reach the fan from a ladder on the side to re-caulk. Is the roof strong enough to support my 190 lb. weight in order for me to crawl up on it to effect the re-seal?
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:07 AM   #2
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1981 31' Excella II
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Stay off the end caps because they don't have any support. The rest of the trailer is plenty strong for two fat guys but try to stay on the ribs. You can also put a shelf board up there to distribute the weight if you need to step between ribs.

Perry
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:10 AM   #3
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Walk only on the structural ribs marked by rivet lines from left to right. Test the front to back rivet lines. On my trailer, some of them are just skin seams and are not as strong as the left to right. Do not, under any circumstances put any weight on the curved segments at the front and rear. The aluminum in them is softer than the flat sheets.

I'm heavier than you and I walk on mine as described above.

Perry beat me to it. His suggestion of a board is a good one. I didn't walk on the unsupported aluminum skin, but I did put weight on it kneeling and leaning to re-seal my vents.
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:12 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. Although I attempted a search before posting, I just happened to find this thread within the forum after posting my question. I'll post it here in case someone else is looking for the info:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f478...ak-128925.html
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Old 04-12-2015, 08:20 AM   #5
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I second Perry's suggestion of using boards. I have to do extensive work on my unit's roof. I am using 2x8" planks, to bridge across the roof cross members without sagging. Using planks spreads the weight over two or more cross members. Be sure your planks end at cross members, not the unsupported skin in between.

At the roof's edges you should have an awning rail. This is located over the wall I beam where the wall and roof panel's join. This will be plenty strong to support you for it's full length.

The best place to lean a ladder against the trailer's side to access the roof is at the door. The frame around the door is the most rigid structure in the sidewalls. You might want to have a towel between the ladder and drip gutter to protect the clear coat.

Good luck!
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:01 AM   #6
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Yes it will BUT!

Your ladder can easily damage the trailer. Add a plank where it will lean on the stream to disperse weight and wrap it heavily in towels.
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:57 AM   #7
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I use some 1" foam board to put between the trailer and the ladder but I ended up putting some stick on EDPM foam rubber on the rails of the ladder for padding. I have a small folding aluminum ladder that makes a 6 ft step ladder or a 12ft extension ladder. We take it with us on trips so I can do maintenance on the road if I have to.

Perry
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:46 AM   #8
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So, I managed to get up there and reseal the FF (Fantastic Fan). However, it seems that when the FF was installed, they somehow created a depression in the outer aluminum skin that forms a bowl of sorts. It's clear that when it rains, there will be a puddle of water in front of the fan. I think this is the biggest problem. It appears that water would be held in a puddle against the frame. A crack of any sort, however minor would allow the water to penetrate.

May have to completely remove the fan to see if I can re-shape the aluminum skin.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:19 AM   #9
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Here's a simple way someone on here suggested to protect the trailer from scratches. I just copied it. Buy a pool noodle, cut it in half, and slit it for the ladder legs. Stays in place better than towels.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1411251602

Here is what I did to solve the deformation problem. Get a stick or two of 1/8" 1x1 Aluminum angle. With the vent removed, clamp and match drill pieces of the angle to the holes in the vent flange. Put a good bead of sealant on the underside of the fan flange. Use nails or sticks to keep the flange aligned with the holes in the roof. Work your way out from the center putting the screws in. An old boating trick is to tighten the screws just until you get a good squeeze out of sealant. After the sealant sets, come back and tighten them a little more. This leaves a good thick bead rather than squeezing out most of the sealant. Then to add a little rigidity I came back and squirted "Great Stuff" foam behind the angle.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1411507471

Al
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveMKY View Post
So, I managed to get up there and reseal the FF (Fantastic Fan). However, it seems that when the FF was installed, they somehow created a depression in the outer aluminum skin that forms a bowl of sorts. It's clear that when it rains, there will be a puddle of water in front of the fan. I think this is the biggest problem. It appears that water would be held in a puddle against the frame. A crack of any sort, however minor would allow the water to penetrate.

May have to completely remove the fan to see if I can re-shape the aluminum skin.
Try a suction cup dent puller to pull out the depression.
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveMKY View Post
So, I managed to get up there and reseal the FF (Fantastic Fan). However, it seems that when the FF was installed, they somehow created a depression in the outer aluminum skin that forms a bowl of sorts. It's clear that when it rains, there will be a puddle of water in front of the fan. I think this is the biggest problem. It appears that water would be held in a puddle against the frame. A crack of any sort, however minor would allow the water to penetrate.

May have to completely remove the fan to see if I can re-shape the aluminum skin.
Had the same thing on my trailer.

Had to pull the fan and then add a rib to keep the outer sheet in place.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:33 PM   #12
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You will be up there again if you don't add the support in the roof... that is standard op (SO) for this sort of install.. On our AS, which you can see in our avatar, each roof opening is 'framed' inside the shell...
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:38 AM   #13
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Most likely the reason it sags it because they took out the nice strong aluminum OEM vent housing that supported the roof and put in a cheap plastic vent with no structural support. They may not have even put anything in there to hold the skins apart.

Perry

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveMKY View Post
So, I managed to get up there and reseal the FF (Fantastic Fan). However, it seems that when the FF was installed, they somehow created a depression in the outer aluminum skin that forms a bowl of sorts. It's clear that when it rains, there will be a puddle of water in front of the fan. I think this is the biggest problem. It appears that water would be held in a puddle against the frame. A crack of any sort, however minor would allow the water to penetrate.

May have to completely remove the fan to see if I can re-shape the aluminum skin.
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Old 04-16-2015, 05:58 AM   #14
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I haven't had a chance to take the vent out yet but I have no doubt that they took the skin supports out. Before I take it out, I'm going to look for a stock vent or vent frame to re-install.
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Old 04-16-2015, 06:01 AM   #15
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1981 31' Excella II
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I don't know why you can't take the guts out of a fantastic fan and put that in a standard OEM vent. At the very least you can get some 12V computer fans and install in the opening.

Perry
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