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Old 12-08-2012, 08:11 PM   #101
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As far as jacks go, I don't use them on my 30' Classic W/SO, I used to use a wooden "helper", but I found this one and it is the only way to go IMHO. Again, a little spendy until you need it.


http://www.genuinehotrod.com/itemgroup/trailer-aid
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:13 PM   #102
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Trailer Aid

Trailer Aid is a great device for those with tandem axles. List price $52 but it can be ordered off Amazon for $34.48.

When I swapped out my 15" wheels for 16" wheels, I took my Trailer Aid to the tire place. They used it to change out the new tires and rims in the parking lot. Much better than letting them try to jack up the trailer and potential miss the jack location.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:15 PM   #103
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I, knock on wood, haven't had a flat....ever on a tandem axle trailer. But, why wouldn't I just use my lego blocks I already have on board? What am I missing?
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:32 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
I, knock on wood, haven't had a flat....ever on a tandem axle trailer. But, why wouldn't I just use my lego blocks I already have on board? What am I missing?
Hi, I have never had a flat on my trailer either, but had two tires at two different times, on our Alaska trip go bad. I used my Trailer Aide Plus both times. I think that the cupped area on the Trailer Aide Plus would hold it more steady and they sure are stronger than leveling blocks. I also have leveling blocks, for leveling. Many people have used them for changing tires without any problems, so it's just whatever you choose to use.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:37 AM   #105
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I, knock on wood, haven't had a flat....ever on a tandem axle trailer. But, why wouldn't I just use my lego blocks I already have on board? What am I missing?
Lego blocks should work fine for changing tires. Trailer Aid may be a little safer due to the indentation which holds the tire bearing the weight of the trailer. It may also be easier to use than Legos if you are off the hard road surface on uneven soil or gravel.

I've used Trailer Aid once to change a flat tire. It helped make the operation fast and safe. Depending where you are when a tire goes flat fast can be a very good thing. When I'm driving on the highway, for safety and speed in the event of a tire incident, Trailer Aid rides just inside the tailgate with an orange cone, a box with three foldable emergency triangles, and my large 1/2 inch socket wrench with the appropriate size socket. I can change a truck or trailer tire very quickly. The most time consuming part of the operation is getting the spare out from under the trailer or truck.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:09 AM   #106
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Legos have to be piled up pretty high to get the other wheel off the ground. You might need 2 sets, but I guess you can lift it high enough with 10. Some sets are 8 (ones sold at CW) and some have 10.

It doesn't seem as safe at that height as 2x. And Legos eventually start breaking, so I'd watch for that too.

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Old 12-09-2012, 12:24 PM   #107
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The tool box is certainly an interesting question! I approached it like this - -
What would I know how to fix?
What would be feasible to fix on the road?
What would I need to McGyver something for a short run?
What do I need for basic maintenance?

I have no knowledge for how to fix a car engine for example. Or replace brakes, or install a water pump and all those kinds of things. I do want to be able to change a tire, torque my lug nuts, tighten my hitch parts, replace blown fuses, and maybe McGuyver something for a few miles.

So I pared my tool kit down. I have a torque wrench with the sockets I need for wheels and hitch, tire tools, screwdriver set, a hammer, vice grips, tire gauges, lot's of kinds of tape, epoxy, 12g electrical wire, nuts and fuses, small wire cutter and stripper, jumper cables, coat hanger wire, some sharp utility knives. Not much beyond that. With the exception of the torque wrench, it fits in a medium sized heavy plastic toolbox.

So, I am definitely NOT in the "all contingencies" mode. I do know a fella who is in that mode. The back end of his PU is a full blown workshop full of tools of every description. He is a good guy to have a on a rally!
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:49 PM   #108
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Legos have to be piled up pretty high to get the other wheel off the ground. You might need 2 sets, but I guess you can lift it high enough with 10. Some sets are 8 (ones sold at CW) and some have 10.

It doesn't seem as safe at that height as 2x. And Legos eventually start breaking, so I'd watch for that too.

Gene
But the AS axle only drops...what maybe 4"? That's only 3 legos high. I do carry 2 sets anyway (and have found some brands break and some don't) as I use them under the stabilizers as well as under the wheels. Sometimes in a real uneven site I even have to use 2 or 3 under the tongue.

I get what you are saying for a leaf spring/equailzer type suspension.
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:41 PM   #109
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I found is it more than 3" and less than 4" to get the wheel off the ground. I thought the Legos are 1" high—they look that way, but I never measured them.

I have no doubt they can work, but I feel 2x pieces are more stable. I think the webbing can suddenly split, especially if used under the tongue jack or stabilizers. I think those metal parts are more likely to start to break the webbing and if that happens with a tire on 3 or 4 levels of Legos, I'd prefer a second means of support under the trailer.

The Legos are a lot lighter than carrying around a bunch of 2x lumber and if you have a weight problem in the tow vehicle, I can see wanting to use Legos.

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Old 12-11-2012, 03:59 PM   #110
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Have not tried to change a tire with the plastic blocks. But using them for leveling makes me think it might be hard to get it high enough. If you are on pavement the stack slids if it is more than 2 high unless it has a long taper. If on ground the weight pushes the stack into the ground.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:20 AM   #111
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Have not tried to change a tire with the plastic blocks. But using them for leveling makes me think it might be hard to get it high enough. If you are on pavement the stack slids if it is more than 2 high unless it has a long taper. If on ground the weight pushes the stack into the ground.
I had package of these plastic leggo-type stacking blocks. As you say, they move around when trying to back up on them and, in my case, they even managed to get mangled. I turfed them and carry several 2x6 boards that are 2-feet long with a tapered edge in the back of the truck.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:38 AM   #112
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Hmmm, I've never had them move around on me on any surface. I did have one brand (can't remember the name, but certainly remember the construction look and feel) that cracked to pieces when used on uneven ground and gravel. The new ones feel like a much more dense material and are physically thicker. They also cost $28 as opposed to $16 at CW.

This is one of those casee where "youz getz what youz payz for".

Yes Gene, when stacked they are 1", except for the top one whose "male tabs" are exposed and add about another 1/2 - 3/4". So three high gets you to about 3.5 - 3.75" of height.

Probably should try this at home before I find myself on the side of the road......
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:35 PM   #113
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Dzn', didn't think about the "make tabs". I have had them slide. I've bought them through Amazon which sells the sets of 10.

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Old 12-12-2012, 06:18 PM   #114
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I haven't been pleased with the inexpensive ones I've had either. Recently cut up some 2'X10" pressure treat in 6' lengths (at 12' used them to slide the new A/C unit to the roof from truck tailgate early this year . . and slide the old one down, much as I wanted to just chunk it over the side, ha!). I have one board under the curb tandem and three under the street pair to level at this park (and keep tires off of gravel better described as rocks). Since the back of the truck is a "garage" this was an easy decision. Haven't decided yet about stabilizer pads . . the lego's are okay for that for now.
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