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Old 03-08-2016, 01:23 PM   #1
MOS
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What level and where to place it ??

Have a 2016 28W and currently use a 4' carpenters level inside to level the unit .
Its a PITA. So what levels are good and where should they be placed for front to back , side to side ?
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:39 PM   #2
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Any small level, 6 in. torpedo level, pocket bubble level, or your smartphone will do the job. Level the trailer with your "sword" and then place the smaller level on the counter top just to insure the counter top is level and from then on just use the small level on the counter top.

The pocket bubble level or your phone will give you front to rear and left to right at the same time
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:48 PM   #3
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Ditto to Howie. I just put a small torpedo level on the floor right inside the entry door, where it is easy to see while standing on the ground.

The newer refrigerators have a wider tolerance for what is "level" than the old ones, so -- really -- if you walk in the trailer and it feels level, it is probably level enough. A small torpedo level will be more precise than this walk test . . .
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:52 PM   #4
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First, you have to decide what you want to be level. Close is good enough for the refrigerator, but not helpful if you are sensitive to level when sleeping or touchy when the water in the sink will not drain. So define what you want to be level. The bed, the floor, the sinks, the counter, the .......... then you need to practice a bit.

The lego blocks are one increment, a 2x6 is another, and the rotating trailer levelers give a bit more adjustment - maybe ..... we have had our blocks slide when leveling on pavement and sink a bit on other surfaces. The block will raise the trailer 1/4, 1/2, or maybe a full bubble. If you know, then it's easy to add or subtract. The next question is how close to level is needed. We can deal with almost anything overnight....except sleeping with head low..... so we tend to level with curb side a bit higher when perfect is not possible.

For a longer stay, spending some time to approach optimum is worth the effort. level sinks are nice. A 4 ft level is a good tool if you have the room to carry one, however it is too long to check some areas of our 23 from side to side. We use a 2 ft and move it around to the areas of concern to us. That also reinforces reality a bit and eliminates the crazy house optical illusion problem. The bubble on the jack is adjustable and is good enough to get you close.

Interested to read what other folks do. There is always a better way. Pat
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Old 03-08-2016, 01:56 PM   #5
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. . .
The bubble on the jack is adjustable and is good enough to get you close.
. . .
KISS!



[keep it simple stupid -- just in case . . . ]
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Old 03-08-2016, 02:35 PM   #6
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I use the surface level on my iPhone. I place it on a stove burner. Oil, eggs etc don't fall to the edge of the pan. If that is level, everything else is most certainly "close enough".
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Old 03-08-2016, 03:21 PM   #7
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I use the jack bubble & my iPhone bubble on the counter top along with opening the toilet room door half way to see if it stays open or which way it swings then I adjust if necessary.
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Old 03-08-2016, 03:22 PM   #8
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Two measures

I take two readings with my torpedo level... side to side on the sink counter and then front to back on the counter just forward of the refrigerator. In 5 years of camping I have only had to use my lego levelers twice, once at Lake Catherine SP outside Hot Springs and the other at Cleburne SP in Texas. Interestingly enough, a site at Maumelle Arkansas COE park that had frost heaves in the asphalt pad where I just knew I was going to have to use them, had a perfectly level spot where the tires ended up.... go figure

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Old 03-09-2016, 03:08 PM   #9
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I'm not sure about other folks, but I want to level my trailer as I park it. Using levels inside and having to unlock the trailer, go in, find a level, set it up, back the trailer onto levelers, go back in, move some more... you get the idea... it's not for me.

I added two RV bubble levels to the front of the trailer. The most important one is the side-to-side which is mounted on a nylon plate (which also holds a flag pole bracket) u-bolted to the jack post. To install that, I leveled the trailer with a carpenters level inside on the kitchen floor and screwed the bubble level to the plate with SS screws and the bubble dead center. Its companion is inside the cover for the LP tanks and is secured with its factory double sided tape. It's not as accurate as the side-to-side level since the cover itself can move, but it doesn't have to be... it is easy to adjust front-to-back level anytime with the jack while side-to-side requires the truck.

To set up camp I put the trailer close to where I want it to be, get out, check the side-to-side level, pull out the Anderson levelers and put them under the low-side wheels and drive the truck to add the desired lift. When the side-to-side level says I'm good I chock the trailer wheels and unhitch. Then I set the tongue height with the jack while watching the front-to-back level (with the lid of the LP tank cover open). Only then do I unlock the trailer and deal with inside stuff.

We travel far and we spend only one night in many campsites before moving on. This method lets me get level fast, unhitch and enjoy wherever we are. I can usually get that all done in the time it takes the boss to walk the dogs.
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:58 PM   #10
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Shorter level on the door sill/threshold of the trailer-
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOS View Post
Have a 2016 28W and currently use a 4' carpenters level inside to level the unit .
Its a PITA. So what levels are good and where should they be placed for front to back , side to side ?
Hi, I mounted this large level on the front of my trailer and dead center. It is mounted right under the belt line molding, as high as possible. This allows me to see side to side level [from inside of my tow vehicle] as I pull into, or back into, a camping space. To do this, you need to take the front/rear level apart and re- install it with the adjusting screw up-side-down. I also have two small levels mounted [one] on each side on top of the belt molding and just behind the segment seam. All levels are mounted with two sided tape.
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Old 08-28-2020, 01:19 PM   #12
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Built in bullseye level

I discovered a large bullseye water level provided by AS. Check the toilet with about an inch of water in it for side to side level. Really.
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Old 08-28-2020, 02:22 PM   #13
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A saucer with some water in it on the kitchen counter might be more acceptable
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Old 08-28-2020, 02:42 PM   #14
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I've always espoused to the theory of the level operation of the fridge is paramount to its health. So I use the floor of the freezer compartment as the location for my round bubble level. Once I get the trailer to that level state, I mounted a master level on the front outside panel on my trailer, pictured below. Once mounted I make sure the front to back bubble and side to side bubble is dead center. Once all is tight and secure, i stow away the bubble level in the freezer. I won't use this level again unless I replace the master level unit.

So on a typical setup I'll get the side to side level done, prior to unhitching. Then once I unhitch, the front to rear is leveled. Easy to do and no need to go inside or pull out any ancillary leveling devices.

Jack
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Old 08-30-2020, 06:34 PM   #15
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I've always espoused to the theory of the level operation of the fridge is paramount to its health. So I use the floor of the freezer compartment as the location for my round bubble level. Once I get the trailer to that level state, I mounted a master level on the front outside panel on my trailer, pictured below. Once mounted I make sure the front to back bubble and side to side bubble is dead center. Once all is tight and secure, i stow away the bubble level in the freezer. I won't use this level again unless I replace the master level unit.

So on a typical setup I'll get the side to side level done, prior to unhitching. Then once I unhitch, the front to rear is leveled. Easy to do and no need to go inside or pull out any ancillary leveling devices.

Jack


I use the bottom rail of the large aft window for left to right. Then use the top of the rail that goes around the trailer mid way up the side. Never had any problems with this way of leveling the trailer.
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Old 08-30-2020, 07:39 PM   #16
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A saucer with some water in it on the kitchen counter might be more acceptable
But is the kitchen counter level?
I discovered that the floor, counter, freezer, and table are all different.
It's easy to say, "put a bubble level outside", but referenced to what?
In the real world, you can't level to more than 1" because that's what the legos are.
I've decided that if the bathroom door stay where I put it, and the microwave drawer doesn't slam shut, I'm close enough.
(I actually bought a cue ball to see where it rolled. )
My storage space has a poured concrete floor. I'm calling that good, and set my "Level Mate Pro" according to that.

Front to rear is easy with the Husky 5000 and a remote.
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