Time for transition - Help needed Please

[cflietstra]

Re flooring, we installed Shaw luxury vinyl tiles in our AS and love it. It is loose lay, so it stays very stable in the huge temp swings we have in Michigan. Extra bonus is we can pick up a tile to check the subfloor if we are worried about leaks. We did glue down a few perimeter tiles. It’s 2 years old, looks great and is not at all slippery. Easy to install, cut to fit with a utility knife. Tiles are 1’x2’ so easy to manage.

My sympathies in the loss of your Haily. Truly dogs are “man’s best friend“! Our Max died years ago at age 15 and we still miss him.

Good luck with your plans- I would bet you will love your AS even more, with the mods you have planned.

[PC Conner]

Originally Posted by Uncle_Bert

I prchased a 2.5” to 2” receiver adapter from eTrailer, and mounted it to the frame behind the propane tanks on my 23CB with 2.5” leaf spring, square u-bolts, and a couple of small pieces of channel. See pictures below. I user the receiver pin lock, but have not yet addressed locking the u-Boles to the frame. It provides a convenient place to store the hitch while camped.

Looks very clean. Let's think about securing it. Of course, a small weld spot on threads will keep the nuts on permanently or a counter set screw on back side of the nuts (so they aren't visible to the thieves) will keep them in place..

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by CBWELL

A member of our unit built a bracket with a 2" square tube, and an inverted u welded to the back that fits over the frame rails behind the propane tanks. He inserts the stinger of the hitch into the 2" tube, and the hitch is off the ground. The locking hitch pin is inserted to hold and lock the hitch in place, as the tube has holes drilled to match the stinger holes. He is working on designing a way to lock the bracket to the frame to prevent theft. When he is done, I will be getting one made. Just another idea!! Chris

I had the receiver tube welded to the underside of the frame by Can-AM RV. No need for the u-bolts.

[Uncle_Bert]

Originally Posted by PC Conner

Looks very clean. Let's think about securing it. Of course, a small weld spot on threads will keep the nuts on permanently or a counter set screw on back side of the nuts (so they aren't visible to the thieves) will keep them in place..

The u-bolts are 9/16” (certainly overkill for this application) but a side benefit is that 9/16” locking lugnuts might work. There are some available, but I haven’t yet taken the time to see what all the options are.

[Bill M.]

With a somewhat chronic back and getting up in years I have some of the same issues and am interested in the responses so far. I am afraid going to a big Van type camper would just add and additional set of issues. And will tell how I deal with some of the issues. We just got back from a 4 month trip. I have a Reese straight line hitch and I left the hitch head in the truck for the whole time. I put a rubber cover on the greasy ball when not hitched. The bars are light enough to handle. I have not put the stabilizing jacks down in years. We just got used to the rocking when one of us moves. When I did used to put them down I used a electric impact driver and standard socket and extension. But prefer just not to mess with them. For leveling side to side I use the lego like block kit. I make a guess of 0, 1, or 2 high and just drop them on the ground and pull on to them. I have watched people with the Anderson type levelers and it looks too tedious for me. The only time I get back in the truck after I stop to unhitch is to move the truck out from under the trailer ball after I am finished. I use wedge type chocks because all I have to do is drop them and slide them in with my foot. I use 4. 2 on each side. The awning: I think you have an issue with your awning locking wheels that could be fixed. I smoothed the outside of my wheels on my lathe and put just a little silicone grease on them. I have learned to use the wand and I can do it all the time now. The bigger issue is pulling up the awning and sliding out the arm extensions. I have the lift handles and that helps some. I lubricate the sliding areas with silicone almost every time and that helps some. My wife helps lift sometimes. My solution is to just leave the awning rolled up if I do not feel like fooling with it. We only opened it a couple of times in the last 4 months. I had a bad time with my dump valves but the replacements work fine now. I stow my generator and my tool box on pieces of plywood that slide on the plastic bedliner. I use a piece of rope to pull them towards the tailgate and a walking stick to push them towards the cab. I have a low top on the back and did not want to give up the space for a real roller or slide.
We do not boondock much. When we do we use the generator on the tailgate. I use 1 squirt of starting fluid so that I can start it on 1 or 2 slow pulls. One problem is re filling the generator without having to lift it. I do not have a good solution yet. Right now I put the gas in a 2 gallon can and then pour it into the gen., wipe the spills, and let it sit until it drys. I added a backup camera with my Garmin GPS. Not a great one but it lets me line up the ball with the hitch. My wife directs also. Most of the time I can back it in once and drop the hitch on the ball. Sometimes I have to go back in the truck one time for an adjustment. If you are by yourself I would suggest a good backup camera. I use the trailer jack to lift to attach and remove the chains for the weight bars. And a short piece of tubing ad a handle if I need a little push. When we travel I stay hitched up a lot. So all I do is pull it on the level blocks if needed and cut off the ignition. We will eat in rather than unhitching on a overnight.

I like the idea of the lithium-solar addition if you camp without power a lot. For me, we only do it a few days a year and a few days at the time so I am going to pass on that. Lew Farber, who comes to the Airstream International Rallies, does a great job. But you are looking at a significant amount of money for a good installation. I think $5 to $10 thousand with lithium batteries and takes a significant amount of space in the trailer.

Capital Customs in Raleigh NC could do the electric stabilizers, electric dump valves, and add the power awning. They do good work.

[Wolf Alaska]

A robust van based motorhome plus your improvements can solve most of the issues driving you out of your AS.

I've towed my trailers for years with our Type B.

Leave trailer shut up while in route, sleep in van mtor home. If need electricity...use van's genset.

You won't need that high price lithium setup which is dangerous in the extreme.

Use a few PVCs to feed regular trlr batts if you like.

My Ford E250 Coach House is now for sale. PM me if you want more info.

Let's Roll !
Wolf

[05ModPod]

Hi Bill M thanks for all your suggestions.

There are many times I don’t put the stabilizers down, but when staying for a week I like to because I’m a light sleeper and movement wakes me up.

I do want to look at moving my dump valves forward to edge to access better.

The lift kit another person suggested, certainly might help will look into that too.

I do think the Anderson style levelers would save a lot of guessing and in and out of the truck. Worth giving them a try I think.

I will try using the wand again on the awning wheels. I like you do sylicon them all the time makes a huge difference. Even a bit of dust on the arms can jam the up, make the side to side up and down hard. But still does not hel that I’m short and have to use a step ladder. Although a good one I have still hurts my hip.

I suppose the easy solution would be to get my hip sorted out. But up here it is a long process, so still have to keep traveling while waiting.

Most times we have managed on the little 24 battery, and generator to boondocking. In a month only used one tank of gas in my Honda eu2000. If we are on the move a lot no worries. But long stays at 10 days boondocking is where we could use a solar battery charging system. First have to get a double battery tray welded to my A frame.

Definitely going to change out the halogens to leds, currently looking to find the model number replacements and multipacks that ship to Canada, or may have to pick them up in January in Quartzite maybe.

So glad that you are both still getting out there. Again thanks

[pteck]

This reminded me, but a lift won't help with the awning unfortunately. I carry a step stool for various things and it does come in handy when the AS is on unlevel ground making the reach that much harder.

[Toldfield]

The Andersen levelers are great. The owner of the company's behavior, not so much. I got a battery operated impact wrench for the stabilizers. I still have to get on my knees, but a nice foam gardening pad is a big help. The battery for the impact wrench also works for a small leaf blower, no flame war please. It is great for getting the small stuff out of kid's tents before folding them up. It is not so great for helping start a campfire...

[TheLu]

Good Morni g,
I'm so encouraged by your willingness to make changes so you can continue your wander. Your list is exstensuve and thought through. Is there a shop you can take it to and give them your list and get it all upgraded at once?

[DJT13]

When we purchased our 2016 serenity it already had solar elec awning still want to do something with dinette. Saw one some one had built on forums but missed it and lost directions on how to build. Use drill to raise and lower jacks. Etrailer has hitch thing I love it. Just added Anderson levelers andLevelMatePRO. Learning curve but worth it. Watch phone till level side to side. Unhook and repeat. Have had a bed slide but now use a bak flip tonneau. Hope this helps

[jharyoungblo]

I checked on retrofitting my 2011 Flying Cloud awning; I believe Airstream in Ohio
quoted me about $8000. Yes, that's eight THOUSAND dollars!! Going to keep cranking until I can't anymore!

[Ladyfish]

Ken and I are restoring a 1988 Excella 29 so that we can get out of the much more complicated 5th wheel with slides. We are also on the aging side...

The kitchen originally had a double sink and a 4 burner range. I don't use the oven. The counter top had cigarette burns and the range was rusty so out they went. Coming is a new corian countertop with a single bowl sink (1 large sink instead of 2 small sinks) and a 2 burner gas cooktop. The single bowl sink and 2 burner gives us much more useable counter space. It took a lot of research to find a 2 burner gas cooktop that had an electric igniter. I bought a Ramblewood. The microwave was already missing when we purchased the AS so I bought a micro/convection oven when they were on sale this spring.

The local cabinet maker/carpenter is making 2 drawers that match the original oak cabinetry to fill the open space where the oven used to be. Since he is also making the countertop, he is doing the sink and cooktop cut-outs. These drawers will look just like the ones that are under the microwave. We could have done a cabinet door and shelves; but the drawer fronts were easier to reproduce and match to the originals.

This is already finished and waiting for us to pick-up. We are still working on the under-carriage of the AS and cannot tow it to his place for installation. I promise photo's when it is complete.

Dianne

[Sea-lovers]

We have a 2004 International 22FB CCD and installed solar last month after consulting our Airstream dealer. Zamp just began offering 90 watt panels that are the same size as the 80 watt, fitting on our roof quite nicely. We purchased a kit with the charge controller and 3 panels. We chose 2 - AGM (92AH) batteries and an Aims 2000/4000 watt pure sine wave inverter with an auto transfer switch. We have been so pleased that we plan to purchase one or two additional panels this week. The antenna will be removed make use of precious roof space. (The wiring comes through the roof and the closet.)

We had such great success with vinyl plank flooring when used in our sticks house that we purchased the same floor in a different pattern to add to the A/S. This flooring is not the snap and lock in type for installation but uses fiberglass tape to secure the planks, which should be better on a floor that flexes during travel. The exact flooring is:
https://www.menards.com/main/floorin...0081091505.htm

Hope this helps. Be sure to let us know how it goes!

[gator.bigfoot]

You know that with lithium batteries you'll have to remove them in the winter or keep them on the plus side of 0C. Unless you're heading south in November and coming back at the end of March you may want to think twice about lithium. Mind you with 300 watts you probably won't have more that 400Ah of batteries so they won't be that heavy, just another pain to move in and out. I run 300 watts with 420AH of AGM batteries so I just leave them in the trailer. Works great for boondocking, I have yet to see them below 84% even after days of rain.

As for awning, I always found the thing a pain as well until I straightened the arms and now the awning opens and closes super easy. As for the little wheel do dads I don't tighten them super hard and that way they open easily. Those power awnings will eventually let you down.

For the hitch I run the Hensley so there is very little to remove.

Talk to CanAm they can remove the oven for you and fix anything that it needs.

Good luck.

[Glassman484]

I have the Beech Lane levelers, and they work great! Got the Andersons first (Amazon has both) but they came with the wedges missing. Returned them and the Beech Lane were cheaper!

I’m still in fair shape, but having used up a lot of body “miles” in my trade before retirement I am thinking about the same issues. My wife has arthritis and limited range with her arms, so I installed straps on the overhead cabinet doors on our FC (they swing up, so when open it’s a reach for her). The look and hang like subway straps, and are attached to the inside of each door with a footman loop bracket. They can tuck in unseen when we don’t want to look at them.

I think there is a flexible type of “wobbly” socket that may work with an extension on a cordless drill so as to allow cranking the levelers standing up. I will repost if I can find it.

Happy Trails!

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by TheLu

Good Morni g,
I'm so encouraged by your willingness to make changes so you can continue your wander. Your list is exstensuve and thought through. Is there a shop you can take it to and give them your list and get it all upgraded at once?

Yes the list is long. But every time I think about selling her, much of my repairs would need to get done. Then like selling a house, it looks great and the things you have been waiting for irks that someone else gets to enjoy. So she is a keeper! I’m never going to sell her. So I need to make her more functional ha like the new government push ‘age in place’.

Unfortunately I only have so much money so I have to prioritize. I’m hoping to close a deal on an ocean front property in Nova Scotia in the next month. My friend wants to sell her place and travel more...so all the steps need to fall in line. Her place is too much for me to maintain now, but we want something that will be a home base to share.

We are testing out the snowbird option this winter- going to Arizona and meander through the Southern states and home for spring. I don’t have a lot of time to do all the upgrades, so starting with the new levelers, sort out my impact wrench for the stabilizers, and pick up the Laguna table mount. Remove the existing floor mounts and patch holes for now with throw rugs.

Spring will bring my dreaded floor vinyl replacement and see what sort of mess I may have with the subfloor. If I can afford it I will look at a reasonable solar set up- good advice from other members re lithium vs agm batteries. Hopefully will change out my halogen interior lights to lesson the battery load too.

Power awning out- can not justify that expense. Spring I may find myself up for a hip replacement so chair and umbrella will have to do

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by Glassman484

I have the Beech Lane levelers, and they work great! Got the Andersons first (Amazon has both) but they came with the wedges missing. Returned them and the Beech Lane were cheaper!

I’m still in fair shape, but having used up a lot of body “miles” in my trade before retirement I am thinking about the same issues. My wife has arthritis and limited range with her arms, so I installed straps on the overhead cabinet doors on our FC (they swing up, so when open it’s a reach for her). The look and hang like subway straps, and are attached to the inside of each door with a footman loop bracket. They can tuck in unseen when we don’t want to look at them.

I think there is a flexible type of “wobbly” socket that may work with an extension on a cordless drill so as to allow cranking the levelers standing up. I will repost if I can find it.

Happy Trails!

Will check out those levelers thanks!

I’m lucky I have those slide doors in my overhead cabinets. But you gave me an idea to attach straps to my bins under the fron bed to make them easier to pull out. Although I have no idea how to get to the outer bins without getting on my knees and half bending under the bed to get them. I have thought of turn the bed platform into a gas lift, but that means I would be stretching and lifting heavy bins= pain in my back for sure. Right now they hold stuff I never use.

I found this pic of how I want my galley. Removing the oven and just going with a two or three burner cook top. It would give me more accessible drawer space, instead of things being in the under bed storage. Maybe a summer project.

[larrykerr]

I had problems with our awning on our 31Classic as had to push up with the handles to lengthen the support arms.I have had trouble with my shoulders and this became impossible to do so had Canam reverse the supports so no I pull the support arms up instead of push and this is so much easier.We had considered a powered awning but this works amazing and cost savings was huge.We are close by if want to take a look.

[05ModPod]

Originally Posted by gator.bigfoot

You know that with lithium batteries you'll have to remove them in the winter or keep them on the plus side of 0C. Unless you're heading south in November and coming back at the end of March you may want to think twice about lithium. Mind you with 300 watts you probably won't have more that 400Ah of batteries so they won't be that heavy, just another pain to move in and out. I run 300 watts with 420AH of AGM batteries so I just leave them in the trailer. Works great for boondocking, I have yet to see them below 84% even after days of rain.

As for awning, I always found the thing a pain as well until I straightened the arms and now the awning opens and closes super easy. As for the little wheel do dads I don't tighten them super hard and that way they open easily. Those power awnings will eventually let you down.

For the hitch I run the Hensley so there is very little to remove.

Talk to CanAm they can remove the oven for you and fix anything that it needs.

Good luck.

Thanks ! I never knew this about the lithium batteries. Yes that would be a royal pain for me being in the North.

I need to read up on what exactly I need and use in amps, and size my system accordingly. Currently I run the Gen for toaster, hairdryer after shower. And periodically run to charge up house bat for fans, lights and water pump. If boondocking for more than 5 days. There are a few things I can do to lesson the load, like switching out the Interior lights to LEDS. We have the burner toaster while travelling, but like the real thing when parked.

The only issue I have with my hitch is the on and off - so that grabby thing might be the ticket.

Thanks again for all your ideas.