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Old 10-31-2016, 05:00 PM   #1
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Picked up a 2005 Classic 25' Airstream in good shape, and it appears everything works...

except I cannot get the water to flow from the kitchen faucet or bathroom.

Filled the tank, and the monitor says it is full and that the battery(s?) is charged.

Found a DC switch under the couch, and it appears to be 'on'.

It is probably something simple that I am missing, but I am learning new things about this AS every day. So cool!
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:28 PM   #2
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Did you turn on the water pump?
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
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Did you turn on the water pump?
I second that.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:13 PM   #4
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Okay...
2nd dumb newbie question...

How do you do that? There's a switch on the monitor that says 'pump', and one in the bathroom that says the same. Turned both on. No H2O, Joe.

Is there another switch somewhere that I am missing?

Thanks for the (newbie) help.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:19 PM   #5
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I suppose the pump could be bad but before making that assumption try checking the faucet strainers. Remove them and see if they are clogged with debris. When you turn the pump on after having been off for awhile you likely will hear it run for a moment or two to pressurize the system. If all that fails then remove the pump and trouble shoot it for operation. It's really a pretty simple system. Good luck with it
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:20 PM   #6
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Have you checked fuses?

Try flipping your DC switch the other direction.

My coach battery has a Use/Store button....must be at Use for anything inside to work.

Might also call the dealer or individual you purchased from.


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Old 11-01-2016, 04:25 PM   #7
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I don't know for sure because ours only has one water pump switch.......

But.....maybe they're wired in parallel so that either location can turn on the pump independently, and if both switches are on they are canceling each other out? Try different combinations of switch positions?

Hope this helps.


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Old 11-01-2016, 06:56 PM   #8
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When I went to test my water system when I got my new-used trailer there was nothing happening except the pump running - there was a back-flow preventer valve that had age welded closed, a nice rap on it popped it open, on my vintage model it was a non-descript brass in-line add-in not far downstream from the pump.
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:28 PM   #9
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I don't know for sure because ours only has one water pump switch.......

But.....maybe they're wired in parallel so that either location can turn on the pump independently, and if both switches are on they are canceling each other out? Try different combinations of switch positions?

Hope this helps.
I thought of that, but doesn't seem to work no matter which position each switch is in.
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:40 PM   #10
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I would switch on any switch labeled as pump and then check for power at the pump with a multimeter. If no power at pump swap switch postion around and recheck, if still no power check fuses (my pump has an in line fuse at the pump). If you have power at the pump and still no flow, try pinging the pump with a hammer or end of screwdriver. If that doesn't work it's probably time for a new pump.
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:00 PM   #11
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Have you checked to see if you have power to either switch?
One switch or the other will turn the pump on under normal circumstances. But both have to be off to stop the pump.
Is there a inline fuse at the pump? Is the common/ground wire at the pump making a good connection.
Are the pump switches the illuminated type?
Do they light when turned on?
If not you need to check the 12 volt circuit to the switch(s).
Do you have any other 12 volt devices that don't work?
Is there water at the toilet or shower?
Do you hear anything when you turn on the pump switch?
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:01 PM   #12
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Have you checked to see if you have power to either switch?
One switch or the other will turn the pump on under normal circumstances. But both have to be off to stop the pump.
Is there a inline fuse at the pump? Yes. I checked and it looks as though it is blown. But pulling out the fuse was a bit tough, and when I got it out, I found that one of the silver base ends was still stuck in the fuse holder. (rabble@#%scrabble). So now I ask myself, did I break the fuse or was it blown before I tried to remove it. (But it looks blown to me...) (...But maybe I'm just hoping it is since this is the simple fix...)
Is the common/ground wire at the pump making a good connection. Appears to be.
Are the pump switches the illuminated type? No.
Do they light when turned on? And no. (That would be bad.)
Do you have any other 12 volt devices that don't work? Not that I can tell.
Is there water at the toilet or shower? No.
Do you hear anything when you turn on the pump switch? Only the sounds of silence.
Thanks to all for the help. I'll have to pick up a fuse at the auto parts store and get something small to remove the end cap. Then maybe I shall thirst no more!
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:41 PM   #13
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If it were mine I would buy a new fuse holder and replace it. While the holder should hold the fuse tightly, it shouldn't be tight enough to rip a leg from the fuse upon removal. If it is corroded at all the connection may be compromised and a new fuse might not fix your problem.
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:13 AM   #14
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I bought a new holder and will be replacing it today. More to come...
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:04 AM   #15
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Not the quick fix I was hoping for. Replaced the fuse, turned on the switch. No pump running, not even a hum to give me a hint that it may be with the pump. I guess it could be the pressure switch? I'll break out the multi-meter next to see if there is any power at the pump connections.

Where is the pressure switch located? (Presumably in the tank? That might be a job for some who are more professional than me.)
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:15 AM   #16
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No separate pressure switch; not like in a house application pump/tank anyway.....

When you turn on a faucet the pump senses and turns on to feed that faucet and off when cutoff pressure is reached (either you turned off the faucet or it reached cutoff pressure).

I would think your best bet now is to use the multimeter to look for voltage at the wires/fuse feeding the pump. You either are not getting 12V or the pump is shot I'd bet.

Hope this helps.


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Old 11-06-2016, 09:28 AM   #17
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Try tapping the pump with a hammer with your switches on, also if your ground wire is just screwed into the wall try moving the ground wire around. I believe at one point I had to change the ground location to get my ground consistent. The pressure switch is built in to the end of the pump on the side that the water flows through ( the reason tapping it with a hammer may work). If the pump starts to run after tapping it I would open a faucet and let it run at least two tank fulls through before shutting the pump off(make sure you have gray tank capacity or open gray side and drain to ground). If you don't have a multimeter a test light will suffice for checking for power at the pump.
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:31 AM   #18
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give 'em a try and report back!
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:46 AM   #19
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I might be out in left field here. I have a 2005 CCD International 22'.

My pump did work but it would not prime - no prime no water flow. That issue was an air leak in the fill pipe that had a nice screw-driver hole from a prior time not under my watch LOL. Once the hole was sealed - pump primed and poof water was flowing.

Next issue was something like yours. The following year, after de-winterizing I had no water flow in either the bathroom or kitchen. I turned pump on and there was no noise and no flow.

Thought maybe it was electrical - but as it turned out - the pump had primed and water lines were full. I did not realize at the time - I had turned on the pump and went to the lou, not expecting any issues. I had flushed the toilet but did not cross my mind - but when I went to wash my hands - no water!

While scratching my head thinking that is strange. I hooked up the city water and same thing no water. (then I remembered I had flushed the toilet) so water was coming in with the pump - so flushed again and yep city water is working in the toilet but not sinks.

Hmmm - simple solution check at source. Took both taps apart and yep it was grit (from hard water at the park I was staying at before) that had lodge the brass cylinder closed even when the tap was open. Bathroom solved. (must have happened during the travel - bounce.

The kitchen was the inside sprayer - the filter screen basically calcified! and stopped the water. I did have a good 2-3 days before needing water - so it must have dried. As I use facilities and have a water jug when on the road.

Moral of the story - check your taps thoroughly remove the sprayer end and see if you have flow. Second - hook up city water and see if you have flow thru your taps to rule out tap issues.

Maybe you have done all that - not sure.


PS another time my pump just gurgled and no pressure - that was a broken clear bubble screen on the pump - got dinged one year I did not catch the freeze in time before winterizing.

Another thought....if you know you have water coming from your taps (i.e. city line) but pump not working at all)

I had intermittent electrical mysteries that made no sense - especially when everything when I tested was as it should be. Nothing was consistent. Turns out it was my main ground on the frame - mine was located up at the front just back of the A-frame. It was pretty corroded. So took it apart ground rust and paint and cleaned the wire. Poof everything worked properly and constantly. It is now part of my bi-yearly maintenance - to inspect the main ground (along with all interior grounds, and tighten wires at 12v bus and AC charging and fuse unit.) I take off the front panel making sure my main ground from bat to charger is nice and tight as well. It had come loose on several long road trips. The dang Interstates are brutal on our babies.

Good luck - hope you find the source.
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:11 PM   #20
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Already ruled out clogging/corrosion at the taps. Works fine with county water.
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