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Old 11-07-2015, 12:15 PM   #1
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That darned leak!! Need help from leak experts !!

Coming in from above windows in kitchen and bedroom same side. It's not the window seals or gaskets as I've blasted with hose pipe. I'm wondering if the rail on the roof that runs length of trailer is a potential leak source ? This is a 31' Sov. Bty.
Ac and air vents have fresh sealer.
Pic is of the roof rail.

Thanks in advance ! Click image for larger version

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Old 11-07-2015, 12:28 PM   #2
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Better pic ! Could this rail be a leak source ?
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Old 11-07-2015, 12:59 PM   #3
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While I'm new to AS leak sources(just got our AS), it looks like you could take the rail off and check for corrosion pin-holes behind it. Based on the threads I've read, aluminum pin-hole leaks are quite possible. Other than that, as I'm sure you have, reseal every seam you can find. I saw a thread where leaks can occur behind the belt-line on the AS's of my vintage(80s-early 90s), maybe the rivets/screws holding your rail on could also be an entry point for water and after it seeps in may follow the frame supports to appear not-so-near where it entered the unit. Hope this helps...
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Old 11-07-2015, 01:25 PM   #4
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One source of roof leaks that show up in strange places is the vent pipes.

They have kits to replace the gaskets (boots around the pipe) I got mine from Inland RV and fixed leaks over the front door and kitchen window.

I never did find the leaks but read on here how the gaskets fixed strange leaks and it fixed mine.
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Old 11-07-2015, 01:26 PM   #5
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I've got a rear window leak and have the rear awning. My leak drips down from the inner window frame and runs down the screen. I'm suspecting the awning rail. To do the best caulking job I'm going to have to remove the rear awning from the rail to get at it. I'm going to caulk the top of the rail and the top of the window.

I guess the only sure fire way to pinpoint a leak is to get a pressure test and soap around all the windows awning rails etc to look for bubbles. Otherwise its a shot gun approach. Caulk and then test, repeat until no leak detected. The leak could be coming from a roof vent and running down the inside walls. Very frustrating.

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Old 11-07-2015, 01:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
I've got a rear window leak and have the rear awning. My leak drips down from the inner window frame and runs down the screen. I'm suspecting the awning rail. To do the best caulking job I'm going to have to remove the rear awning from the rail to get at it. I'm going to caulk the top of the rail and the top of the window.

I guess the only sure fire way to pinpoint a leak is to get a pressure test and soap around all the windows awning rails etc to look for bubbles. Otherwise its a shot gun approach. Caulk and then test, repeat until no leak detected. The leak could be coming from a roof vent and running down the inside walls. Very frustrating.

Kelvin
definitely not the roof vents for me as I just added new caulking ... not the windows themselves as I've literally soaked with a hose pipe and that's with original window gaskets !! it's either the actual roof seams( or that rail .. not even sure why it's there ?
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Old 11-07-2015, 01:40 PM   #7
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Roof vents - how is the weather strip?
Awning rail - is that a rusted screw in the photo?
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Old 11-07-2015, 03:15 PM   #8
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Roof vents - how is the weather strip?
Awning rail - is that a rusted screw in the photo?
roof vents are fully sealed, a/c has new sealant around seems too. What is the weather strip?
i've removed rusted screw and added some sealer. Main source of water is entering via window frame in bedroom & to lesser extent over kitchen sink.
thinking about running a think line of caulking along the awning rail ? or removing and then re revet adding some sealant in the rivet hole?


thanks for the advice
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Old 11-07-2015, 03:23 PM   #9
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A pal of mine chased a similar leak for weeks. The screw that goes in the end of the rail had been drilled all the way thru the shell but the screw only went thru the outer part of the rail. The only way he found it was by a pressure test.
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Old 11-07-2015, 04:25 PM   #10
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That darned leak!! Need help from leak experts !!

There probably should be a weather strip on the top edge of the vent flange facing skywards so that when the vent is closed the lid seals shut against it preventing air from exiting and water from entering.
Ours leaked at the window frames also.
I'd replace the rusty screw with an Olympic rivet slathered in TremPro before installing. The rail could save some work if you replace the awning.
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Old 11-07-2015, 04:56 PM   #11
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Having a similar problem with my back window area. If and when this Georgia weather ever dries out, I plan to replace the window seal and seal every seam I can find. The problem I have is that water drips are going past the window and dripping inside the rear inspection cover and onto the rear part of the floor. With the rain, all I am doing now is catching and dumping it.....and waiting for dry weather.
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Old 11-07-2015, 05:11 PM   #12
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There is a product for sealing aluminum gutter seams that supposedly can be used on wet surfaces. Haven't heard many talk about it.
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Old 11-07-2015, 08:35 PM   #13
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Properly seal roof vents! Do NOT use silicone! Work on the vents first. If still leaking g, work on that rail...
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Old 11-07-2015, 08:38 PM   #14
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Consider getting a "leak test".. They pressurize inside then put soap solution on exterior.. Watch for bubbles! If you pressurize yourself, get a gallon of cheap "soap bubbles"'from a Dollar store and use it.. Generates best bubbles!
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:08 AM   #15
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You may want to try using some Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:40 AM   #16
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a/c leak point ?

any clue where rain water drains from a/c unit ? i'm going to cover up the vent hole and see if that has any effect ...
even though i thought a waste of time, sealed along the awning rail ..

cheers everyone, thanks for the advice !
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:44 AM   #17
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any clue where rain water drains from a/c unit ? i'm going to cover up the vent hole and see if that has any effect ...
even though i thought a waste of time, sealed along the awning rail ..

cheers everyone, thanks for the advice !
The AC "should' drain the 'condensate' through a plastic tube run through the wall, between the roof and ceiling... if you remove your inside panel covering the AC you should see the 'drain line'...

Since it is inside the walls, it is unlikely it is causing a roof leak...

It is possible the seal between the roof and AC is leaking tho..
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:54 PM   #18
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Consider getting a "leak test".. They pressurize inside then put soap solution on exterior.. Watch for bubbles! If you pressurize yourself, get a gallon of cheap "soap bubbles"'from a Dollar store and use it.. Generates best bubbles!
that would be quiet a challenge i think ... every window, all the exterior storage bins, air vents, door etc etc would have to be sealed off tight first ! i've heavily sprayed down the entire area again, including roof & A/C fan area .. nothing

there must be a structural rail in between outer & inner skins right above the window as rivets run the length of the trailer, i'm thinking water is being caught by this rail and then runs to an exit point which then finds it's way out above the window frame..
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Old 11-20-2015, 06:13 PM   #19
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that would be quiet a challenge i think ... every window, all the exterior storage bins, air vents, door etc etc would have to be sealed off tight ..

I did a redneck pressure test on our 34' and didn't seal off anything. Bubbles showed up at all of the leaks even though there were lots of normal places for air to leak out. I didn't even close off the stove vent, it was wide open and there was enough air blowing out to move my hair!
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:36 PM   #20
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I am a roofing and waterproofing contractor by trade. I can tell you that water does some incredible things that sometimes defies gravity. I've seen water travel laterally on a vertical surface and even travel as much as 8 feet on the underside of horizontal surfaces, when it was flowing down a connected vertical surface. That said it would help to think of leak problems as having multiple potential sources beyond the most obvious. I have not yet "waterproofed" my 60 Traveler, but have noticed several areas in the outer skin seams where irregular voids and bulges in the seams overlapping joints are evident, and several poorly applied light fixtures and other outer skin penetrations. Remember, while your driving 65mph in a rainstorm those old rotted rubber gaskets on the base of the exterior lights are useless.

What you should do is NEVER trust any rubber gasket component of anything attached to the outside of your trailer that penetrates through the skin. I would discard the rubber and seat everything in a thick 1/4" round continuous bead of Vulkem polyurethane rubber, and seal the back side of the rivets you use to attach it to the shell. Yes this will cause a mess, but the displaced caulking will both ooze out of the joint to seal the unseen union points and be easily cleaned from the joint you can see on the exterior surfaces. I would use a plastic putty knife to remove most of the ooze from the exposed messy joint, making sure to scrape most of the sealant off before carefully cleaning the rest off with mineral spirits.

Finally, if you have leaks then it makes sense to seal the back side of the rivets and seams. This means removal of interior skins in some cases, but to my mind that is the only way to make sure you get every single one.

I will be posting the seam sealing to my blog in a few weeks at:
http://TheAdventuresOfFlyingToaster.wordpress.com
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