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Old 03-04-2019, 08:56 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
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Houston , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 19
Some materials and products I find usefull

I have been doing research on Airstreams in hopes of acquiring one in the future. Y'all have been very helpful in helping me learn about what to look for in a used Airstream and the art of restoring one. I have a lot of experience rebuilding boats, my father and I used to fix up boats, buying them cheap and fixing them up to enjoy before moving on to a bigger or faster model to suit our whims and current fishing style. I will list some my favorite products. These links to examples are to illustrate the product, I do not necessarily use that supplier.

I have seen photos (not on this site) of people using residential home wiring (Romex)in travel trailers. This is not a safe or reliable practice because the ridged single copper strand can break because of vibration and the insulation is easily worn away. The ideal wiring is SOOW cable You can often buy remnants of this from electrical contractors if you assure them you are not doing electrical work on the sly. It can be used for both high and low voltage comes in a variety of sizes and is very durable.

Wire nuts are also much more suited for houses than trailers and vehicles. A ratchet crimper for insulated terminals is a great tool to have

DC wiring tends to work better when soldered, especially anything like brakes and lights that might get wet. Wet connections can be made even better if you put a little hot glue on the joint after soldering and then heat shrink tubing.

I like Waytek Wire for wire, breakers, terminals, fuses etc.

Labeling your wires may seem tedious but it really makes life better.

Heat shrink labels for the Brady printer

Labels for existing wiring

Rivnuts Very handy fasteners, you can install them with a bolt or buy the expensive tool if you have a bunch of them. Allows the use of threaded fasteners in thin metal.

Vibratite is a unique threadlocker that works by being gooey and pliable rather than curing hard like lock-tite. It is not difficult to remove the fasteners and is about equivalent to a nylon locknut. You will need a small can of MEK to thin the Vibratite occasionally because it dries quickly. Unlike locktite and cyanoacrylate, it does not damage nearby plastics with off gassing.

There are a variety of foam board products used on flat commercial roofs that come in a wide variety of thicknesses and strengths. Some have fire resistance. I don't know anything about them other than they exist at commercial roofing suppliers.

If you ever want to seal or glue something very seriously 3M 5200 is the strongest silicone adhesive I have ever seen. It is a little runny compared with most silicone, cleans up with paint thinner when wet. Very slow drying. Do not use anywhere you can't cut it loose with a razor knife, it will not come loose ever.

Ultra Grey RTV sealant from the auto parts store is equally strong and is primarily used to glue motorcycle crank cases together. It works very well to glue emblems back on.

I haven't tried this company but their caulk removal products look interesting.

Kroil is probably the best penetrating oil for rusty bolts. It can be hard to find though

PB Blaster is a close second and is available everywhere

Speaking of rust, Evaporust is amazing for any part that can be fully submerged overnight. If any portion of your part is not fully submerged, it will etch a line. Evaporust is reusable even after it is discolored. Available at Tractor Supply and better building suppliers.

I can't live without this little guy, I use it on every nut, bolt, or screw i can reach with it. It is by far, the most useful tool I own.

More later if I think of something.

John_Dennis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2019, 08:51 PM   #2
2 Rivet Member
San Diego , California
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 27
Thank you! I'm always on the lookout for good info like this.
Matt0k0 is offline   Reply With Quote

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