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Old 05-01-2020, 07:40 AM   #1
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1956 22' Caravanner
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Settee Dimensions?

Okay I know this can be a very subjective question. However I am looking for general guidelines .

I want to make a U shape settee (see drawing) Just wondering the average height of base from floor? How wide are the benches and how thick are the cushions? Even though I have a drop down pedestal I am not making this into an extra bed.

Thanks,

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Old 05-01-2020, 11:10 AM   #2
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If you've got a drop down pedestal, it's able to be a bed whether you like it or not. ;-) (and at some point, whether you plan to or not, it will probably get used for one)


When I built my first dinette I made the mistake of not taking into account the depth and height of a typical cooler or storage container. When I was finished, my bench storage compartments were one inch shy of being able to hold my cooler (which I hadn't thought about putting in there while I was planning the design). Doh! Missed it by THAT much!


If you're building it as storage, the interior dimension may be more important than "typical height/depth" in the long run.
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Old 05-01-2020, 11:39 AM   #3
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Based on my experience with the one I built here are my thoughts:

As Kidjedi mentioned account for storage/mechanical underneath (if feasible). I had to offset my banquette towards the curb side 4" to account for the depth of the water heater underneath the seating on the street side. Height was close.

Thickness of your materials are accounted for in your storage area. I was using aluminum so it was minimal.

The seat bottom has to account for sitting and the back foam thickness. I'd suggest up to 18" of actual seating depth. I used my dining room chairs as a model and found the seating depth of 14" wasn't comfortable, couldn't slouch, had to sit upright

The height of the seat back was limited due to window ledge (about 8") on sides, 12" on front window. The 8" hits the wrong spot on my back if I lean back.

Square corners may be more practical than curved. If you want to sit sideways and use it for a lounge chair. I curved mine and sometimes wish I could stretch out.

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If your table top will lower for a bed then size is dictated for you. I offset that a little by having a pedestal that allows the top to slide side to side and rotate (had to order out of France). See my thread for details.
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Old 05-01-2020, 12:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57Vintage View Post
Nice!!! I LOVE the aluminum framing!
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Old 05-01-2020, 08:56 PM   #5
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Thanks I had purchased the tools for sheet metal work and wanted to see how it would work to maximize storage and save weight.

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Old 05-02-2020, 12:04 PM   #6
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Thanks I had purchased the tools for sheet metal work and wanted to see how it would work to maximize storage and save weight.

Wow! That looks great. What thickness and "type" did you use for the sheet?


You didn't by any chance weight the materials did you? I know that's not likely, but I'd love to know how much weight this saved compared to timber framing and sheet. I'm all about building light (I cringe when I see tile and marble counters installed in "high dollar" builds).
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Old 05-02-2020, 05:35 PM   #7
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The seats are mainly 1" square tubing as vertical supports (.125 wall) and 1" angle (.063 thick) since a number of pieces are curved with Shrinker and Stretcher machines to curve the pieces of angle. Some straight sections on the top front of the seat bottom are .125 1" angle as this is the lip that supports the table top for making the bed. There are two pieces of 1X2 aluminum tubing to support the seat bottom on the two curved segments

https://www.eastwood.com/shrinker-st...caAr4vEALw_wcB

Seat backs are .032 alclad and the seat bottoms are .050 aluminum sheets with 3/4" angle (1/8" thick) riveted in the middle on the bottom to lessen bowing and center in the frame as they are removable to access mechanical/storage.

The seat fronts are architectural aluminum sheets I bought as surplus from a tiny house builder. It's a little stiffer than .032, but I never measured it because it has a thick plastic coating to protect the finish.

I never weighed it but it is really light. It breaks down into six pieces so its manageable to get through the door.

A number of pieces are welded to together, but a lot are just bolted together with 8/32 machine screws and rivnuts.
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Old 05-02-2020, 05:50 PM   #8
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Rather than continue highjacking this thread , I'll take the aluminum framing conversation over to 57vintage's thread (https://www.airforums.com/forums/f97...er-172124.html)!
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