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03-23-2014, 01:24 PM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Separate body from chassis
Hello everybody,
I'm looking for the best way to separate body from chassis.
I have already seen few methods but I wouldn't like make a mistake...
I think about a structure to grow up the body from chassis and then, put the body on 4 wood parts widthwise of the trailer, the 4 wood parts are fixed on the body.
I hope you understand me...
Thank you for your help
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03-23-2014, 02:41 PM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
Northern VT
, Vermont
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 360
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Plywood floor is bolted to frame. Body is bolted to floor with some bolts also going through outriggers [ metal struts perpendicular to main frame rails extending to outer perimeter of floor]. Front hold down plate, rectangular steel plate welded to main frame rails extending up inside exterior skin under front window. Some models also have a rear hold down plate. This secures the body to the frame/floor. And of course you have hundreds of rivets connecting the body to the belly pan. The body shell is VERY weak when disconnected from the floor. Very easy to damage if not well braced. In addition to the widthwise braces you must add diagonal braces to form solid triangles. Without this support the body will very likely twist and be damaged. The most secure and easiest way to lift the body off is with the gantry method. Granted there is more effort to build the gantries but a net time saving in the end and far easier that the jack/lift & block method. Additionally when its time to reattach the body to the frame/floor suspending from above is so much easier and precise. Wishing you well, I think a 1960 Overlander is the perfect Airstream!!!!
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03-23-2014, 03:11 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor
, Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
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A little explanation of the "Gantry"
You need to build some sort of a scaffold around the Overlander. Two beams go from side to side over the two vents in the roof. Drop a comealong or other lifting device from these beams and attach to the wood frame bracing the sides. IF it is only the shell you are lifting, the total suspended weight will only be a few hundred pounds. As soon as the shell is separated from the frame, pull the frame out and lower the shell onto blocks and secure.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737
Trailer '78 31' Sovereign
Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
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03-23-2014, 04:01 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor
, Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
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Photos of Lift
Double click on the pictures for enlargement.
That's me in the hat.
Note the two beams on top supported by the scaffolding.
Shell lifted up and frame about to be pulled out.
Adjusting.
Picture of interior temporary wood framing and come along placement.
Close up of shell bracing about to be set on the saw horses made of 2X4's.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737
Trailer '78 31' Sovereign
Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
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03-24-2014, 02:33 AM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Thank you for your replies,
Yes, I can do 2 methos, with gantry or to build a structure in the Airstream,
I haven't much place around the Airtsream to install gantry... I think I have to do to build a structure in order to lift the body and then put it on blocks...
If I fix correctly wood parts on the structure, I think it suffiicient to have a solid structure ?
On this parts to lift it ? :
Thank you for your photos and for the Overlander compliment
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03-24-2014, 04:28 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor
, Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
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Always attach the supports to the verticals. The horizontal support will bend very easily.
It is important to keep the spacers as low as possible to the floor. You do not want to disturb the shape of the aluminum where the shell meets the floor.
Make sure you keep the floor as intact as possible, you will want to use the existing floor as a pattern while constructing the new one.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737
Trailer '78 31' Sovereign
Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
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03-24-2014, 04:57 AM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Oh ! I thought that horizontal support were sufficient to carry the body even if I use all the length of each support...
I'll see where I can fix the wood supports and vertical supports.
It's just the time to lift the body because after to lift it, I'll put it on solid support.
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03-24-2014, 05:01 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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I would use the internal brace and jack method. Not a problem to attach beams from side to side as you plan, but keep them low and attach to the vertical stringers as Dennis indicated.
You can place jacks under the crossbeams, jack up about 15 cm. Then slide a couple of beams in between the shell and the floor and support with cribbing.
You can then pull the frame and floor out, lower the shell and stake it down to prevent wind from tipping it over. Be sure to place diagonal bracing in as recommended by Putback.
I've used this method with great success.
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03-24-2014, 07:39 AM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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This Midday, I returned to see with regard to what you said and you have reason, the horizontal supports are very weak, impossible to fix something on this support !
The vertical supports (the good word is frame ?) are better strong.
If I understand well, I have to build wood frame between each vertical aluminium (on the same side and between each side) frame from body and secure this wood frame with 2-3 vertical wood bar up to the roof ? That's right ?
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03-24-2014, 07:56 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
1976 23' Safari
1962 22' Safari
1961 16' Bambi
Philly burbs
, PA
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 185
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brace internally
I would take the lower interior skins off. Brace with 2x4's. Make them level.
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03-24-2014, 08:00 AM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1976 23' Safari
1962 22' Safari
1961 16' Bambi
Philly burbs
, PA
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 185
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lift body and secure on saw horses
on a level surface, I lifted with a jack. Placing blocking under and get onto saw horses. It worked well for me.
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03-24-2014, 08:01 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
1976 23' Safari
1962 22' Safari
1961 16' Bambi
Philly burbs
, PA
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 185
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good luck. level surface is important
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03-24-2014, 08:10 AM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Thanks for yours picts !
I have already solid parts when the body will be removed, the great lateral wood trunk will be on this :
4 level of each and 4 wood trunk,
How have you fixed wood part and the aluminium frame at the interior ?
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03-24-2014, 08:42 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor
, Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaël
This Midday, I returned to see with regard to what you said and you have reason, the horizontal supports are very weak, impossible to fix something on this support !
The vertical supports (the good word is frame ?) are better strong.
If I understand well, I have to build wood frame between each vertical aluminium (on the same side and between each side) frame from body and secure this wood frame with 2-3 vertical wood bar up to the roof ? That's right ?
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Frame is a good word.
The picture that surfpod put up of his bracing is a good frame to copy.
What the intention is is to keep the bottom shape from deforming, and keeping the shape of the body as close to original as possible. If the body shape (on the bottom) gets out of alignment while lifting, storing, or putting back on the frame after repairs it could be very difficult to get the body to fit properly on the new frame and floor.
Copy Surfpod's wood frame and you will be good.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737
Trailer '78 31' Sovereign
Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
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03-24-2014, 09:15 AM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Thank you for "Frame"
It's more clear in my mind now, I hope an answer about the fixations wood frame on body frame and when I'll begin to build the wood frame, I'll post photos before to lift the body.
I thougth I knew many things, I underestimated the difficulty but in fact... I have to learn many things !
Thank you for all your advises.
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03-24-2014, 04:30 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,709
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I have just placed the shell back on my frame after a great deal of repair work. This is a picture of the gantry I built. My shell was suspended from October 22, 2013 until March 2014 without any problems.
__________________
Craig and Carol
1997 34' Excella 1000
1970 27' Overlander, International
2009 Ford F150 5.4L
ProPride hitch with 1400# bars
AIR 41028
TAC GA-8
WBCCI 10199
Past President Southeastern Camping Unit (12)
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03-25-2014, 06:44 AM
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#17
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3 Rivet Member
1976 23' Safari
1962 22' Safari
1961 16' Bambi
Philly burbs
, PA
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 185
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As to securing the wooden frames to the airstream frame, I used regular screws. I will post a picture shortly. I'll be interested in seeing the condition of the chassis. Hopefully, there will be little frame rust. I used POR-15 with great results.
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03-25-2014, 07:30 AM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member
1976 23' Safari
1962 22' Safari
1961 16' Bambi
Philly burbs
, PA
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 185
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Screws into frame
Here's a picture of the securing screws. I have recently lifted a 1961 Bambi. A bit shorter than yours, but same era. www.lilbambi.net
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03-25-2014, 07:48 AM
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#19
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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Hi Craig and Surfpod,
Thank you for picts and I'm rassured now...
Ok I'll use standard screw and squares in order to assemble the wood parts together.
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04-24-2014, 10:28 AM
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#20
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4 Rivet Member
1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud
, FRANCE
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 296
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This morning, I've tried to remove the panels under the chassis but...it seems I've missed a step...
What I have seen :
The panels under the chassis are fixed between the exterior sheets and on the frame.
What is the way to remove the sheets under the chassis (without to seprate body from chassis because it isn't for now).
Thanks !
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