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09-02-2014, 06:45 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 104
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Screw replacement alloy?
Removing my rub rail with numerous rusted philips head screws leaves me cranky and frustrated. Is there a problem with using stainless screws? I havent seen this subject anywhere in the forum and have been searching. I have had small success removing rusted screws and dont want to have this problem again.
So, can i use stainless? Thanks!
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Steve_in_Savannah
'94. 29' Excella Classic
2001 5.4L Ford F150 Lariat Super Cab
wife & 2 boys
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09-02-2014, 06:51 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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I wouldn't see any problem in using stainless - unless someone else comes back with a good reason not to, that is what I would do. I have done that on other trailers.
Were you able to get all the old rusted screws out with a screwdriver or did you have to resort to other means?
I am just about to replace some clearance lights that are leaking and have bald rusted sockets. I am not sure yet if they are mounted with rivets or screws. If screws, I'll bet they will be a rusty mess and I will be replacing with stainless.
Brian
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Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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09-02-2014, 06:53 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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I go back with stainless or aluminum on every maintenance job I do. Stainless is relatively close to aluminum on that Galvanic reaction scale (some engineer will have to tell the real name!). Much closer than regular steel.
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-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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09-02-2014, 07:09 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Southwestern
, Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,671
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I always replace rusty original equipment screws with stainless steel. At the price, I don't know why Airstream doesn't use stainless steel in the first place.
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09-02-2014, 07:10 AM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 104
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Not every one. I had to drill out two and the other two I quit on. It was late last night and was tired of sweating. Savannah heat and humidity... Since I had the interior skin off i was able to get to a majority with the pliers to turn loose.
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Steve_in_Savannah
'94. 29' Excella Classic
2001 5.4L Ford F150 Lariat Super Cab
wife & 2 boys
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09-02-2014, 07:12 AM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 104
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Makes me wonder if it has to do with sheering off due to stress. I think the hardness of the ones used allow for some stretching, but if you get any moisture... Rust.
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Steve_in_Savannah
'94. 29' Excella Classic
2001 5.4L Ford F150 Lariat Super Cab
wife & 2 boys
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09-02-2014, 08:17 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
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No reason to over think this. Use stainless.
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MICHAEL
Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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09-02-2014, 08:35 AM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
1961 22' Safari
Union
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 477
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Yes, replace with stainless.
To make it easier to remove the rusted screws use a new screwdriver, place in position on the screw, whack the screwdriver with a hammer several times fairly hard (but not hard enough to deform the aluminum). This seems to break the rust "seal" and sets the screwdriver deeper in the screw. Won't work on all of 'em, but sure improves the odds.
Sam
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09-02-2014, 08:42 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 104
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I whacked mine and thats how i got two out, six from inside, two sheared off and two that remain... i grow weary of this restoration process when i bump into this kind of stuff. Family demands make it fairly impossible to accomplish during daylight hours which leaves me only night.
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Steve_in_Savannah
'94. 29' Excella Classic
2001 5.4L Ford F150 Lariat Super Cab
wife & 2 boys
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09-02-2014, 08:45 AM
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#10
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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Stainless is a suitable replacement in this instance.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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09-02-2014, 09:22 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 104
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Screws removed!!
Using a hammer and chisel to start the rotation i freed the rest. Now to complete my floor repairs! POR 15, new floor, new STAINLESS STEEL bolts and nuts. Thank goodness the iron frame is still looking good in most of the areas. lots of holes to plug though... no wonder why the floor rotted. find a lot of holes under the the rail.
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Steve_in_Savannah
'94. 29' Excella Classic
2001 5.4L Ford F150 Lariat Super Cab
wife & 2 boys
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09-03-2014, 09:34 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 682
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Here you go guys: stainless for everything unless an aluminum rivet will do. Dab each screw with this prior to inserting and tightening. It is messy, but stops corrosion, thus you will always be able to remove later.
Used for aluminum/stainless in the salt water marine environment all the time.
Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
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09-03-2014, 10:10 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1969 29' Ambassador
brooksville
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,270
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Yep, stainless all the way, I even use them on the inside. I now use aluminum rivets on the outside when possible instead of screws. The drill out easy enough.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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Not all those who wonder are lost.
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