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Old 06-20-2021, 02:49 PM   #1
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1972 Argosy 24
Philomath , OR
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 5
Rivets and belly pan?

I'm a first timer restoring a 1972 Argosy. Can anyone tell me what rivets I should order to install the new belly pan? A general rivet breakdown of where and when each kind of rivet is used would be super helpful too. Also, having trouble figuring out where exactly to get new belly pan material. From Colin Hyde? Wondering who ships it. Or can I go physically get it somewhere in Western Oregon?

Thanks!
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Old 06-20-2021, 03:54 PM   #2
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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There are several places you can order sheet aluminum. Airparts Inc is one. Here in Central Texas I just found a local called Westbrook Metals. As far as rivets, Hanson Rivet & Supply Co and Vintage Trailer Supply are a couple. In the VTS site they kinda explain the different sized rivets. In talking to a salesperson at Hanson, they were very knowledgeable and helpful. When we went back with the interior skins, we used the same holes by placing clecos to align the metal, then rivet. If you use the same holes, you go up a size due to the enlarged hole caused by the original pop rivet. We had 1/8” interior rivets and we went up to 5/32” rivets. A lot of people use .025 thickness aluminum for the belly pan and large flange 3/16” rivets. Others will point you in a better direction. Good luck
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Old 06-20-2021, 11:34 PM   #3
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1958 26' Overlander
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I've always ordered from Airparts in Kansas City. Their freight costs are reasonable and they ship quickly. They handle the type of aluminum you want and will ship any length with a 6' minimum. They also carry 60" wide material.

https://www.airpartsinc.com/1799_202..._other_RVs.htm

I used the larger flange rivets for the belly pan (3/16") as the smaller rivets originally used seem to loosen and enlarge the holes quite a bit.

https://vintagetrailersupply.com/lar...meter-vts-283/

VTS also has the larger flange in a 5/32 rivet.

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Suggest you consider adding a wide flange to the outriger ends to give more surface to support the belly pan. I had a lot of areas where the belly pan wore through the edge of the outrigger on the original. I made mine out of aluminum but others have used plastic or welded steel to the outrigger for the same effect.

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Old 06-22-2021, 07:51 PM   #4
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1972 Argosy 24
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Super helpful information. Thanks! Something else just came up that I'm stumped on. The old belly pan that I removed measure 61.5'' wide, but I've noticed that everyone seems to sell the .025 belly pan aluminum in 48" wide pieces. What is recommended in this scenario?
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:59 PM   #5
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1972 Argosy 24
Philomath , OR
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Thanks! That all makes sense. Now I'm trying to figure out why everyone sells the .025 aluminum rolls in 48" width but the old belly pan that I removed measures 61.5''? Any thoughts on how to properly install the 48" roll? Center the new 48" roll and make the wrap part that goes over the outriggers wider than the original so it reaches the narrower roll? Or use the 48'' roll and get an additional skinny role to make up for the difference between the original 61.5" and the new 48" roll and make the wrap around the outriggers same as original? Or, completely other idea? Thanks.
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:44 PM   #6
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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On the belly pan we went with the perimeter using a couple of feet. Then after everything was back together and tested, we installed the 4’ wide section of aluminum down the middle. I even placed that in a couple of cross pieces in the event I ever needed to access my tanks, I wouldn’t have to remove the entire belly pan. If you have any cross joints, lap accordingly to keep road moisture out of the belly pan when towing. Good luck
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Old 06-22-2021, 10:42 PM   #7
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1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
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The belly pan can be done a couple of different ways depending the material used. Run it side to side or front to back depending on the area you want to cover. I color coded mine to give you an idea. I have 4 tanks in the belly with access panels to plumbing/electrical inbetween them. Keep in mind I did the belly pan in .032 alclad so I could get 60" wide pieces. Mix and match if you want, who's going to see it??

Red are belly pan pieces (suggest keeping outside corners smaller since they have compound curves on the edges) There will be long narrow pieces around access panels. Front center can be larger if you don't have the spare tire well.

Blue is a fresh water tank support.

Black are the grey and black water support panels.

Green are the access panels between the tank compartments.

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One other hint. When you do adjacent permanently installed panels where the overlap is side to side, start at the back and work forward. That way the panel on top edge faces to the rear and not the front to invite water intrusion. Of course seal the joint also.

I did a another thing to the riveted belly panels with a louvered vent. I'd refer you to page 1, post 8 of our thread, listed below, to explain my reasoning (its long winded so I won't repeat here).
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