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Old 08-23-2009, 11:53 AM   #21
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It never hurts to wire for more amperage....

You can always use less but you would be wired for more like having a washer/dryer, run the AC and the electric boost on the twin temp at the same time or who knows what you might want in the future.....we were looking to be able to boondock and minimize our power needs--many state parks don't have hook ups--that is one reason for the gas oven instead of convection microwave. But again, this is what we wanted and may not be for everyone-that is what is so great about building your own trailer.

I am not sure about the cost differential between wire for 50 amp versus 30 amp....perhaps Uwe could answer that.

paula
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:05 PM   #22
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You can always use less but you would be wired for more like having a washer/dryer, run the AC and the electric boost on the twin temp at the same time or who knows what you might want in the future.....we were looking to be able to boondock and minimize our power needs--many state parks don't have hook ups--that is one reason for the gas oven instead of convection microwave. But again, this is what we wanted and may not be for everyone-that is what is so great about building your own trailer.

I am not sure about the cost differential between wire for 50 amp versus 30 amp....perhaps Uwe could answer that.

paula
I've seen your trailer fairly recently, and it looks a lot better than those photos..
As for wiring for 50 amp, if you have the interior of the trailer ripped apart, it won't make a whole lot of difference to wire for 50 amp, you'd just need the breaker box, and run a few more wires. Some more labor cost, but not like trying to retrofit into a coach that's all together inside.
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:47 PM   #23
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I should have taken it to Jackson Center and had the Mother Ship do it right, from the get-go.

I spent way too much money with the company who did my restoration and, given what I spent, I could have had a brand new 1971 Sovereign, courtesy of Airstream. Four years later, I'm finding that the repairs the restoration company did were poorly done and I'm fixing them again, myself this time, little by little.

The one lesson I learned from all of this is that you need to do your homework, before you entrust your baby and your dollars to someone who labels themselves an "Airstream Expert". Arrogance and egocentrism, I can do without.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:31 PM   #24
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All of you are helping, thanks!

Much appreciation for the clarifications. Paula, I really like all of those extra touchs with the lighting. Marvin, I also like the idea of clearance markers functioning as turn signals. These older Airstreams aren't that well lit, even with LED lamps.

I see the point on 50 amps. The Twin Temp will have the electric option and, since I could well take my job on the road for months at a time, a washer/dryer combo is in the plans. Makes sense to power up now.

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Uwe thought of a lot of things that would make our trailering easier and we weighed each in terms of cost and effectiveness. He really has a good handle on the pros and cons--because there is no free lunch . . . Good luck with your redo.....am sure you will be as thrilled as we are.....paula
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I should have taken it to Jackson Center and had the Mother Ship do it right, from the get-go.

I spent way too much money with the company who did my restoration and, given what I spent, I could have had a brand new 1971 Sovereign, courtesy of Airstream. Four years later, I'm finding that the repairs the restoration company did were poorly done and I'm fixing them again, myself this time, little by little.

The one lesson I learned from all of this is that you need to do your homework, before you entrust your baby and your dollars to someone who labels themselves an "Airstream Expert". Arrogance and egocentrism, I can do without.
All good points. No free lunch is absolutely right. I could also buy brand new with lots of options for what I'm putting into this trailer. However, THIS trailer is the one I want.

Stingray, I'm sorry your resto experience was disappointing. You are oh so right about doing your homework. Based on work I'd seen and talking with several happy customers, I picked out my restorer before I even found the trailer. I have complete confidence in in my choice. It certainly does take a lot of trust.

OK anyone else out there want to add anything? I'm trying to do like 87MH says, "Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:18 PM   #25
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Oh, I am seeing a 68 overlander in my future - God help me.

I think Uwe's work is exceptional, too bad he's on the West Coast. SteSpot, really like the cabinetry especially the notches used instead of pulls. I notice the choices maximize every inch of space.

In my 2006 there is SO much waste space for hardware and drawer glides it's nearly criminal. A drawer with a 12 inch front has 9 inches usable storage inside... come ON. I've got a narrow pantry (25 FB) but the odd thing I notice is that the stove is offset almost six inches from the pantry. Now why didn't they cut that pantry off at countertop height and make it wider? Snuggle it right up to the stove?

Shackman, that loveseat/recliner looks positively DECADENT. Do they make it in RED?

Paula
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:46 PM   #26
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Hey, '67 is the year for Overlanders... it's the aluminum wiring that really pushes us to go the extra mile.

I agree with Stingray. Our first experience with a renovation shop was something less than what we had hoped. The Overlander is currently at P&S Trailer Service and we couldn't be happier. Once we get the frame/floor/axle work done, the old girl will be headed back for interior.

I think design decisions are very personalized. Some folks are devoted environmentalist who want to boondock with three kids... others are dedicated to campgrounds, bathhouses and satellite tv. What work great for us might be a train wreck for you... or vice versa.

I think the common elements are the same whether you are renovating a travel trailer, an old truck, a house, etc. Go with high quality components. Build it right the first time. Measure twice, cut once or in other words... think about design before you commit to a design. Remember that design is a journey, not a destination. What could be more boring than achieving perfection... we wouldn't have anything to fix.
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:52 PM   #27
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check for any leaks around the outside storage comrartments with the hinges on the bottom water gets traped under the hinge and drips in the trailer,if youll notice all the rot on the floor in all the forums there will be a storage compartment in the picture
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:53 PM   #28
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Wiring photo

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
I've seen your trailer fairly recently, and it looks a lot better than those photos..
As for wiring for 50 amp, if you have the interior of the trailer ripped apart, it won't make a whole lot of difference to wire for 50 amp, you'd just need the breaker box, and run a few more wires. Some more labor cost, but not like trying to retrofit into a coach that's all together inside.

Terry I just wanted to show how much wiring it can take.....of course our trailer no longer looks like that but it took a great deal of planning and wiring to make it work right. Anyway, the trailer works for us and that is what is important. We feel really fortunate to have been able to have this trailer built for us--and Uwe thought of things we would not have even considered. Paula
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:37 PM   #29
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What a great thread. Thanks Dacia. If I had the luxury to do it all again, I would only do some minor things not really worth mentioning as I really like the way our TW turned out.

The one thing I would do though is to put in a third brake light inside the bathroom window and have it set up where there are actually two, matching ones side-by-side. One for each brake/turn signal. These would be set up where they just plug in when getting ready to hit the road and are stored away when not in use. I'm still engineering this in my head but am quite certain it will work.

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Old 08-31-2009, 12:54 PM   #30
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My current thought is to use the outboard marker lights as turn lights and the center rear marker light as a brake light. The more warning I can give the person behind me, the better.
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Old 08-31-2009, 05:41 PM   #31
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A well-marked Airstream

Brad and Hampstead, those are both good ideas on signals and braking lights. I don't have a center rear marker so I'm going to investigate Brad's idea. I certainly agree, anything extra to warn the person behind me may prevent a panel replacement, or worse.
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:41 AM   #32
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Quote:
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anything extra to warn the person behind me may prevent a panel replacement, or worse.
Great ideas, I never gave much thought for additional brake/turn signal lights as a permanent installation but I did purchase a magnetic set of trailer lights for those times that, at the last minute when you hook up, you find that the trailer lights are not working and you want to get on the road NOW.

My original thought was to put them on the bumper if needed. The idea to place them in the bathroom window is a good idea, but would they be too close together in the window
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