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03-29-2013, 08:00 PM
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#1
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Retired USAF (kinda)
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Meridian
, Idaho
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 106
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Replacing Oven Vent
I recently ordered a Stainless Steel Vent from Airstream to replace the ugly plastic one, but want to make sure I do it correctly so that it doesn't leak. Any tips? It looks a little more involved than I anticipated. I just figured I would remove the plastic one and slide in the SS one, but there seems to be some sort of putty on the backside. Just wondered if anyone on the forums has tackled this project? I've tried a couple of different searches but no luck.
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03-29-2013, 08:38 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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As I recall, I filled the backside perimeter along the screw lines with Vulcan. I then taped off the outside perimeter and sealed with parbond.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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03-29-2013, 09:44 PM
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#3
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Retired USAF (kinda)
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Meridian
, Idaho
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 106
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Okay. Thanks Rich.
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03-30-2013, 06:18 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
2012 28' International
Greensboro
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,708
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I did the upgrade vent as well as the water heater and furnace doors. The stainless steel looks so much better. Now, about that cheapo plastic outdoor shower panel.....
__________________
_________________
"SilverLeaf II" 2015 30' Classic
2019 RAM 2500 Limited 4x4 CC w/6.7L Cummins
ProPride 3P
AIR# 58452
WBCCI # 3430-Unit 21
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03-30-2013, 07:27 PM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Fairbanks
, Alaska
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 268
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I plan to do this also but mine just arrived. I also ordered the sealant kit that came with several sealant materials. Now my question and confusion, in the box is a black sheet of foam gaskets that you punch out the one you want. One of them fits the stove vent.
Question are you guys using this gasket?
Confusion - I wonder if this sheet of gaskets came with the SS Vent or with the sealant kit?
__________________
Rick
"When you find yourself in a hole - quit digging!"
2012 1/2 Eddie Bauer, 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 SWB 4x4 6.7L Cummins 68RFE
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03-30-2013, 08:40 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 298
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I used grey butyl tape around the perimeter of the vent( over the screw holes) but before I installed the vent I used foil tape to seal off the edge of the duct work to the edge of the trailer skin, then I installed the vent, tightened down the screws and used
A razor blade (lightly) to trim the excess squeeze-out of the tape. Clean up with a little mineral spirits. No need for par-bond.
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03-31-2013, 08:29 AM
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#7
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Retired USAF (kinda)
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Meridian
, Idaho
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAB
I did the upgrade vent as well as the water heater and furnace doors. The stainless steel looks so much better. Now, about that cheapo plastic outdoor shower panel.....
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BAB, I couldn't agree more about the shower door panel. Mine won't even stay closed when driving down the road. The wind catches the leading edge and forces it open, so I had to use a small piece (very small ) of duct tape to keep it closed. Now it even looks worse. I can't believe someone doesn't make a stainless steel outside shower door panel.
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03-31-2013, 09:31 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2012 30' International
Vintage Kin Owner
Bad Axe
, Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 564
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We upgraded all we could, also. Just don't let the stainless stove vent slip out of your hands. Leaves quite a scratch.
If anyone ever finds stainless replacements for shower panel and potable water covers please let me know! I would also like to replace the plastic electrical box cover on the outside.
__________________
2012 30' International Serenity
1947 Spartan Manor
2005 28' Safari LS - traded
1977 31' International Sovereign - sold
2012 Ford F250 Superduty Crewcab
WBCCI# 1007 Air#2158
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03-31-2013, 09:34 AM
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#9
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Retired USAF (kinda)
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Meridian
, Idaho
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 106
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Crisen,
When I ordered the SS Vent along with the Fiamma bike rack, I also received the foam gasket sheet, so it's not part of the sealant kit. I believe it comes with the vent. Obviously, Airstream must believe all that is necessary is the foam gasket, I'm just not sure how well it will adhere to the aluminum siding. I'm just going to go ahead and use it, and them keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak. If it does leak then I may go with the butyl tape route that 0557 suggested (I was thinking this would be the better way to go, but the foam gasket must be "good enough" according to Airstream). Is butyl tape okay on aluminum? Thanks again for the replies.
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03-31-2013, 09:50 AM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Fairbanks
, Alaska
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by av8or
Crisen,
When I ordered the SS Vent along with the Fiamma bike rack, I also received the foam gasket sheet, so it's not part of the sealant kit. I believe it comes with the vent. Obviously, Airstream must believe all that is necessary is the foam gasket, I'm just not sure how well it will adhere to the aluminum siding. I'm just going to go ahead and use it, and them keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak. If it does leak then I may go with the butyl tape route that 0557 suggested (I was thinking this would be the better way to go, but the foam gasket must be "good enough" according to Airstream). Is butyl tape okay on aluminum? Thanks again for the replies.
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Thanks, I was wondering, since if it had come with the sealiing kit, it might have been intended for the plastic vent only. While I don't have the plastic one off yet I suspect that the flange on it isn't quite the same as the one on the SS one. I'll probably do the same, use it and see.
__________________
Rick
"When you find yourself in a hole - quit digging!"
2012 1/2 Eddie Bauer, 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 SWB 4x4 6.7L Cummins 68RFE
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03-31-2013, 02:56 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,669
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Over the years, I have seen to many foam gaskets develop voids, either from the git go, or after some weathering....same for butyl tape (although not as much). That is why I like the flowing of Vulcum and the "umbrella" of a fine line of taped off ParBond. To each his own. This has worked best for me.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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03-31-2013, 05:09 PM
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#12
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Vintage Kin
Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 8,014
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This item is on my list to replace the JENSEN plastic exterior stove vent on the '90 Silver Streak (and I wish it were higher up as the cosmetic-only stuff is still a good ways away: i.e., "the fun stuff"), thus I appreciate the thread.
The fresh water hose inlet is another. Glad that some of the A/S stuff (even if "shiny" versus "matte) will/ought to work for this.
You can just make them out in this PO CL ad photo; stern-wards after second window from bow; high & low:
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03-31-2013, 07:00 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2008 27' International FB
Petaluma
, California
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
Over the years, I have seen to many foam gaskets develop voids, either from the git go, or after some weathering....same for butyl tape (although not as much). That is why I like the flowing of Vulcum and the "umbrella" of a fine line of taped off ParBond. To each his own. This has worked best for me.
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Well, I got lazy and just filled the channel void all around with Gray Vulkem (Trempro) and placed the vent. Trempro pushed out of the screw holes and the edges. I screwed down tight using opposed screw tightening like a wheel until tight and then cleaned the excess with cosmoline remover. If I had room, I'd use masking tape and add a Parbond bead but the Vulkem is already there.
Brad
__________________
Looking for adventure in whatever comes our way.
- Brad
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