Replacement LP Gas Detector help

[jevering]

It's time to replace my Gas Detector in my 2014 International. The unit is an AtWood 31014. I can't seem to locate what the replacement is. I see white ones, but not black. Can anyone recommend a replacement for the 31014?

[uncle_bob]

Hi

There are a couple of threads on this already. The quick summary is that black went out of production a couple years back. You can find them on eBay from time to time. Folks report getting units with production dates as far back as 2015. Not sure that's a good thing.

The white ones are what AS is now using. The part numbers end in 019 and 020. As far as anybody can tell, there is no difference between them. If you order one from AS, it may be marked with one number on the packaging and another number on the unit it's self.

Bob

[jevering]

Thanks for the reply! I need to get better at searching the threads. I'll just order the current white model.

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by jevering

Thanks for the reply! I need to get better at searching the threads. I'll just order the current white model.

I am in the process of doing same thing.
Be sure not to cut the wires without disconnecting the power to trailer. It will blow the fuse. Unfortunately I did that. Save you a hassle.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Daquenzer

I am in the process of doing same thing.
Be sure not to cut the wires without disconnecting the power to trailer. It will blow the fuse. Unfortunately I did that. Save you a hassle.

Hi

Power to the trailer is normally 120V shore power isn't it? Or are we talking about the 7 pin? Or is this power in the trailer? .... I'm confused ....

First cut the red wire. Then move the cutters over to the black wire. Now cut it. Nothing blows and there is no damage. The only way to short something out is to either cut both wires in the jaws at the same time or to bash into something with the cutters. With 12V this is a fine way to do things. With 120V not so much.

If you are going to disconnect things, the propane detector runs on 12V. The wires to the negative battery post are what you would want to pull. If you have a full disconnect switch ( not the use/store switch ) you could disconnect the battery with it.

Once the battery is disconnected, you have the solar charger to disconnect. You also could do this at midnight with no sun on the panels.

Once all that is pulled, make sure shore power or generator power is not going into the converter / charger. If the 7 pin is plugged in, unplug it.

When reattaching the wires, the drill is pretty much the same. Strip and hook up the one color. Insulate it. Then move to the second color wire. Strip both sides of it, hook them up, insulate the connection.

If indeed you *did* blow the shore power into the trailer messing with the propane detector, you got into something other than the detector wiring. Best to track that down and fix that issue.

Bob

[Wayne&Sam]

Go online, buy a white one. The time on the 7 (?) year life doesn't startup til you power it up. So an older manufacturing date isn't a big deal.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

Go online, buy a white one. The time on the 7 (?) year life doesn't startup til you power it up. So an older manufacturing date isn't a big deal.

Hi

.... unless it is. Folks who have gotten the old date codes ( like 2015) also report them dying early.

Bob

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Power to the trailer is normally 120V shore power isn't it? Or are we talking about the 7 pin? Or is this power in the trailer? .... I'm confused ....

First cut the red wire. Then move the cutters over to the black wire. Now cut it. Nothing blows and there is no damage. The only way to short something out is to either cut both wires in the jaws at the same time or to bash into something with the cutters. With 12V this is a fine way to do things. With 120V not so much.

If you are going to disconnect things, the propane detector runs on 12V. The wires to the negative battery post are what you would want to pull. If you have a full disconnect switch ( not the use/store switch ) you could disconnect the battery with it.

Once the battery is disconnected, you have the solar charger to disconnect. You also could do this at midnight with no sun on the panels.

Once all that is pulled, make sure shore power or generator power is not going into the converter / charger. If the 7 pin is plugged in, unplug it.

When reattaching the wires, the drill is pretty much the same. Strip and hook up the one color. Insulate it. Then move to the second color wire. Strip both sides of it, hook them up, insulate the connection.

If indeed you *did* blow the shore power into the trailer messing with the propane detector, you got into something other than the detector wiring. Best to track that down and fix that issue.

Bob

The directions say to disconnect the 12V battery before replacement or you will have a high chance of blow the fuse. That 1 AMP fuse is pretty sensitive And in the other threads say the same thing. On YouTube they say to take out the fuse before replacing the detector. Once it is connected then put the fuse in.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Daquenzer

The directions say to disconnect the 12V battery before replacement or you will have a high chance of blow the fuse. That 1 AMP fuse is pretty sensitive And in the other threads say the same thing. On YouTube they say to take out the fuse before replacing the detector. Once it is connected then put the fuse in.

Hi

Using the battery post as a switch or using the fuse as a switch or using the wire nut as a switch is all the same thing. When you close the switch, current flows. It doesn't matter where the switch is. If it completes the circuit the result is exactly the same.

The only reason for doing this or that away from the detector is to keep from bumping the +12 wire to ground. As long as you don't short the wire to ground, the fuse will be fine.

Bob

[SeeMore]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Folks who have gotten the old date codes ( like 2015) also report them dying early.

Mumpsimus

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

The time on the 7 (?) year life doesn't startup til you power it up. So an older manufacturing date isn't a big deal.

Factual

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

Mumpsimus



Factual

Hi

In addition, in date code or not, some significant percentage die ahead of 7 years after the date code, even in normal service. I had one that did. That's what sent me looking for a new one on my 2017 AS. (with a 2016 date code monitor).

Bob

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

Mumpsimus



Factual

Hi

In addition, in date code or not, some significant percentage die ahead of 7 years after the date code, even in normal service. I had one that did. That's what sent me looking for a new one on my 2017 AS. (with a 2016 date code monitor).

If you'd like to come inspect and test that unit, drop by and check it out.

Bob