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Old 09-09-2018, 07:18 AM   #1
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Reinstalling trim piece

This piece of trim ripped off really easily. Its design was supposed to keep the cushions in the L shaped couch at the front of my 28

If I fix it the way they installed it by moving the trim and screwing in new holes it will just break again there isnt a lot of room for a longer screw because the trim piece is thin. Any suggestions on how to shore up the existing holes or make this trim more secure for when I reinstall it?

Note: there are 3 holes in the metal piece for screws to go in.

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Old 09-09-2018, 07:47 PM   #2
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Still working on this if anyone cares to chime in[emoji3]
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:15 PM   #3
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More screws. Factory used 3 screws. I would use at least 6. Evenly along the length of the board. You could also add a piece of 3M VHB along the length the help.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotc...NGDC/205507375
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:42 AM   #4
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More screws. Factory used 3 screws. I would use at least 6. Evenly along the length of the board. You could also add a piece of 3M VHB along the length the help.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotc...NGDC/205507375

So you would drill the extra 3 holes thru the metal? What about Chicago screws ? Would those hold it in better ? I was thinking about installing leather pulls because that piece of trim is taking a beating.
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:55 AM   #5
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I'd use glue and screws. Rough up the side of the metal that contacts the wood with some 60 grit paper and apply a thin bead of epoxy, or E6000 or maybe even a Urethane glue, your choice. I would use epoxy. Also , drill out (enlarge) the holes in the particle board where the screws pulled out a little bigger than original. Saturate a small piece of open cell foam with epoxy and push it in the holes. Let it dry and sand off the top flush with the wood. Now the screws will be going into much more substantial substrate than particle board. I like
West System epoxies but that is because I have used it for years on many different projects.
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Old 09-10-2018, 01:19 PM   #6
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I'd use glue and screws. Rough up the side of the metal that contacts the wood with some 60 grit paper and apply a thin bead of epoxy, or E6000 or maybe even a Urethane glue, your choice. I would use epoxy. Also , drill out (enlarge) the holes in the particle board where the screws pulled out a little bigger than original. Saturate a small piece of open cell foam with epoxy and push it in the holes. Let it dry and sand off the top flush with the wood. Now the screws will be going into much more substantial substrate than particle board. I like
West System epoxies but that is because I have used it for years on many different projects.


Good ideas Im going to try this. Any particular type of west System epoxy ? Do they sell at HD // Lowes or do I need to go to like a paint store ? Im just going to use a large drill bit I Think to make the space.
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Old 09-10-2018, 01:36 PM   #7
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3M VHB tape will work better than the West systems epoxy. And yes I would drill 3 more holes and add 3 more screws
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Old 09-10-2018, 01:38 PM   #8
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Reinstalling trim piece

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3M VHB tape will work better than the West systems epoxy. And yes I would drill 3 more holes and add 3 more screws


Do I need an impact driver style drill to go thru that metal or would a metal drill bit work ? I have a Ridgid drill (not impact driver )

Also I need to repair those holes I think and give it a better more durable area to drill in to
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:25 PM   #9
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Standard drill and bit will cut it like butter.
You can repair holes or just drill new hole in metal beside the old holes and that will allow you to screw into “fresh wood”.
I would repair old holes with some wood glue and a wooden tooth pick. Allow to dry and use same holes if it where mine.
Again using 3M tape and adding 3 more screw point will make this problem a thing of the past.
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:12 PM   #10
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Standard drill and bit will cut it like butter.
You can repair holes or just drill new hole in metal beside the old holes and that will allow you to screw into fresh wood.
I would repair old holes with some wood glue and a wooden tooth pick. Allow to dry and use same holes if it where mine.
Again using 3M tape and adding 3 more screw point will make this problem a thing of the past.


Cool I drilled the holes. Got caught in the bedtime kids vortex so going to get tape and some sort of strong hole filler tomorrow. I drilled 1/4 because my though process was a fatter screw might be a little better than 3/16
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:16 PM   #11
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Great. Yes a #8 or #10 screw will work fine.
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:58 PM   #12
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Remember.. if the screw hole is too small, the bigger diameter screw can cause separation of the wood. The idea of epoxy and foam is great as it spreads out the 'grabbing' area of the hole... and the epoxy will stretch and hold the screw fine.. It takes a little patience to do that fix... but worth the effort.

Drilling that metal is simple and easy. New drill bit, turn it 'sssslllloooowwww' as you keep it perpendicular to the metal... you should see a spiral of metal come off, and some chips perhaps.

To start the hole, Position a nail where you want the screw and rap the nail with a hammer to make small 'dent' in the metal.. this will help the drill bit 'bite' and minimize the chance of not hitting the right spot... then drill slowly... minimal pressure... they are called 'hi-speed' drill bits, but the heat generated will dull them quickly.

Remember to put a small block of wood under the metal.. or drill in place.. saves running the drill bit through your pants leg.. or other useful body/clothing part..

If you don't want the 'epoxy' route, run over to the Woodsmith store on I35 East service road just south of the Honda MC dealer.. they have more than you can imagine and are quite helpful.

P.S. Those screws are not the best for wood... especially the wood you are dealing with.. find some Wood screws.. the threads are different... and get them at least an INCH longer ... sorry.. nope, i don't know how many M&Ms make up an INCH.
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Old 09-11-2018, 03:24 PM   #13
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Remember.. if the screw hole is too small, the bigger diameter screw can cause separation of the wood. The idea of epoxy and foam is great as it spreads out the 'grabbing' area of the hole... and the epoxy will stretch and hold the screw fine.. It takes a little patience to do that fix... but worth the effort.

Drilling that metal is simple and easy. New drill bit, turn it 'sssslllloooowwww' as you keep it perpendicular to the metal... you should see a spiral of metal come off, and some chips perhaps.

To start the hole, Position a nail where you want the screw and rap the nail with a hammer to make small 'dent' in the metal.. this will help the drill bit 'bite' and minimize the chance of not hitting the right spot... then drill slowly... minimal pressure... they are called 'hi-speed' drill bits, but the heat generated will dull them quickly.

Remember to put a small block of wood under the metal.. or drill in place.. saves running the drill bit through your pants leg.. or other useful body/clothing part..

If you don't want the 'epoxy' route, run over to the Woodsmith store on I35 East service road just south of the Honda MC dealer.. they have more than you can imagine and are quite helpful.

P.S. Those screws are not the best for wood... especially the wood you are dealing with.. find some Wood screws.. the threads are different... and get them at least an INCH longer ... sorry.. nope, i don't know how many M&Ms make up an INCH.


Ok here is what I went with :

60 grit. Dap plastic wood. Spax zinc coated for wood // masonry drywall and plastic and e 6000.
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Now Im trying to figure out how to take this thing off (underside picture ) to attach the trim. I was going. To try and hold it and attach it without removing it but since Im solo probably not a good idea , agree?Click image for larger version

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Old 09-11-2018, 03:50 PM   #14
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Reinstalling trim piece

Trying to install this piece of trim is not going well. I wasnt able to get the piece pulled out so its like Im working a confined space and I cant get these screws to go in to the mdf. Really tricky to put back on
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Old 09-11-2018, 03:57 PM   #15
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Ok so that’s why the 3M tape would be a good idea. It alone would hold the trim in place. I believe the stuff HomeDepot sell is 30lbs per sq inch. If you use that you can carefully place the trim to the Aluminum and then let it go, take a break and then and the screws into the “Plywood” Airstream does not use MDF.

3M tape is your Friend
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Old 09-11-2018, 04:03 PM   #16
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It is 30lb. You are right. I didnt anticipate the #8 screws being so hard to screw in. They almost need pre drilled holes. But thats a hornets nest.

I appreciate your help.
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Old 09-11-2018, 04:06 PM   #17
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Screws are hard to go at first because the white coating on the plywood is Formica. Once you punch a hole through that you should be good to go.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:11 PM   #18
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Screws are hard to go at first because the white coating on the plywood is Formica. Once you punch a hole through that you should be good to go.


Just got it done. Thank you for the tape idea. That was a game changer for solo project. I did a little bitty drill bit thru the holes and got 1 5-8 screws instead of 1.5 and it went right in and took very little time. Without that tape I would have struggled to mount it.

Thanks again! Picture forthcoming after I finish my victory nap.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:21 PM   #19
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Thumbs up

Glad it worked out.
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