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Old 02-01-2013, 05:22 PM   #1
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2007 28' Classic
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Rear Trailer Overhang

We have a drive that has a moderate slope which was close to hitting the rear of our old 1970 25ft LandYacht. We no longer have that trailer and are looking for a replacement and wondered if a 27, 28 or 29ft would be too long to back into our drive.

Is there someone out there that knows the overhang (center of rear axle to back bumper) on the 25, 27, 28 and 29's?

I called Airstream and was told they don't have dimensional drawings.

Thanks in advance...

Orin
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:06 PM   #2
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Don't forget that axle condition and tow vehicle wheelbase and rear overhang will affect the likelyhood of problems, as well.

Our 1971 25' measures 88" from rear axle centerline to rear bumper, if that helps.

- Bart
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
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<SNIP>Our 1971 25' measures 88" from rear axle centerline to rear bumper, if that helps.- Bart
Hi Bart,

Thank you very much for sending your measurement - That will really help!! I'm starting to think that, without a lot of work, a 27 may be the longest we can back up the slope..... but I sure would like to have a 29 -

Orin
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 762x51 View Post
We have a drive that has a moderate slope which was close to hitting the rear of our old 1970 25ft LandYacht. We no longer have that trailer and are looking for a replacement and wondered if a 27, 28 or 29ft would be too long to back into our drive.

Is there someone out there that knows the overhang (center of rear axle to back bumper) on the 25, 27, 28 and 29's?

I called Airstream and was told they don't have dimensional drawings.

Thanks in advance...

Orin
Airstream surely has the drawings. But Barts is correct, it is not that simple. The only way to tell for sure is to buy the trailer and then back it into your driveway. If it rubs the driveway when you back it up, figure out what you need to do to avoid it rubbing the driveway (like lowering the level of the ball, etc.).

Good luck, Dan
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:52 PM   #5
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Hi Dan,

Yes, I would have thought I could have gotten a drawing from their "service" department but the guy I spoke to said they didn't have one he could send. Guess he was too busy......

Your suggestion to buy the trailer and try it simply isn't an option. The work I mentioned would involve regrading my concrete drive and that just isn't a reasonable option.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:03 PM   #6
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How low can you go?

Why not mount a front hitch on your truck and use a drop bar to lower the Airstream hitch and raise the ass end of the trailer? Yup, it's a bit more of a hassle getting in and out of the driveway - but you can get the 29' that way.

- Bart
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:16 PM   #7
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I just measured my 27' and from the center of the rear axle to the end of the frame I see 105". I had a very similar concern when we bought this trailer as the apron on my drive slopes to the gutter more than most of my neighbors and there is a noticeable crown to the street. My previous SOB was roughly the same length but the frame sat higher off the ground and it barely cleared the concrete when backing in. I was certain the lower Airstream would certainly drag bottom when I brought it home and knew that adding casters to the Airstream frame was a definite no-no. I was prepared to unlatch the WD bars to drop the nose if necessary and considered going to 16" wheels if they would have helped, but was absolutely amazed that it never touches bottom. Ironically, if I had unlatched the bars the ball mount would have likely dug in. It also helps that the drive is wide enough to allow me to initially attack it at about 45 and I believe that helps the potential clearance issue. I've also noted that the angle on the apron is such that the front axle lifts clear of the pavement for about 18" while backing before those tires start turning again. I've checked the torsion arms per Andy's document and they appear to be in good shape, but hope these brief moments of overload on the rear axle doesn't take its toll over time.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:29 PM   #8
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Why not mount a front hitch on your truck and use a drop bar to lower the Airstream hitch and raise the ass end of the trailer? Yup, it's a bit more of a hassle getting in and out of the driveway - but you can get the 29' that way.

- Bart
That works well for us ... we even use a short wheelbase vehicle with beefed up suspension to make the job really easy!
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:31 PM   #9
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Orin

I did not explain myself very well. I agree that regrading your driveway is not an option. I was talking about doing what Barts suggested. I believe that there is a solution to getting the Airstream that you want up the driveway without rubbing the bumper.

Dan
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:35 PM   #10
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I forget where it was but there was a ferry where trailers had the same problem. The ferry carried a few 2 bys and strategically placing them would get the rear over the low spot.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:14 AM   #11
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I know these guys take their trailer on the Washington state ferry system, which has varying angles on the ferry terminal ramps. Just 5 More Minutes
They use caster wheels off the rear bumper.
Perhaps an option...
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:20 AM   #12
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I know these guys take their trailer on the Washington state ferry system, which has varying angles on the ferry terminal ramps. Just 5 More Minutes
They use caster wheels off the rear bumper.
Perhaps an option...
Here is a more direct picture link Just 5 More Minutes with our Airstream: Non-Stop Outdoor Adventures along with Epicurean Cuisine and Cooking, Sourcing Ingredients from Local Farms and Markets Found Along our Way in America and Canada.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:52 AM   #13
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Usually you can just remove the torsion bars before you back in and that will lower the back of the tow vehicle enough to let the back end of the Airstream clear. It should at least make up the difference between the 25 & 29.
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:00 AM   #14
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Hi Guys -

Thanks for all of the tips and suggestions!! Maybe a combination of removing the torsion (spring) bars and adding casters will solve the problem I have. That being said, we may have found a 25' which will do away with the problem. I've also found a 1987 29' Sovereign but I don't know if I want to get a trailer that old.

Orin
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:40 PM   #15
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Mine just barely drags when removing it from the storage spot. So I don't apply WD until I get out of the spot and the a** doesn't drag. Then I get out, lift the tongue by the jack and apply the normal WD.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:15 PM   #16
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The driveway at my former residence in Houston had a steep grade---made worse by a "dip" where the driveway met the street. A lot of the homeowners on the block solved their dragging problems by laying down a steel plate where the driveway met the street. I purchased a plate from a local steel company. The plate was about 3 feet wide and 10 feet long. It was so heavy that the steel company loaded it with a crane. To roll it off and position it on my driveway, we used sections of steel pipe. The plate weighed about 800 lb. and was too heavy to ever be stolen. I had no further problems negotiating the driveway with my RV's after leveling off the dip at the end of the driveway with the steel plate.

I would not advise installing rollers underneath the back bumper of an Airstream to solve dragging problems. Airstreams are not tail draggers. You risk crumpling the rear lower panels when you drag an Airstream trailer. I'm sure if you ask around, there will be Airstream owners who can show you what happens when you drag the rearend of an Airstream.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:51 PM   #17
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The driveway at my former residence in Houston had a steep grade---made worse by a "dip" where the driveway met the street. A lot of the homeowners on the block solved their dragging problems by laying down a steel plate where the driveway met the street. I purchased a plate from a local steel company. The plate was about 3 feet wide and 10 feet long. It was so heavy that the steel company loaded it with a crane. To roll it off and position it on my driveway, we used sections of steel pipe. The plate weighed about 800 lb. and was too heavy to ever be stolen. I had no further problems negotiating the driveway with my RV's after leveling off the dip at the end of the driveway with the steel plate.

I would not advise installing rollers underneath the back bumper of an Airstream to solve dragging problems. Airstreams are not tail draggers. You risk crumpling the rear lower panels when you drag an Airstream trailer. I'm sure if you ask around, there will be Airstream owners who can show you what happens when you drag the rearend of an Airstream.

I agree....and adding rollers REDUCES your ground clearance, further exacerbating the bad stuff that happens to an AS when "dragged".
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:07 PM   #18
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Hi Guys,

Problem solved - Just bought a 1998 25' Safari -

Thanks for all of your suggestions and comments and I'm sure I'll be coming back here for more suggestions and guidance in the future.

Orin
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:00 PM   #19
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Congrats! Looks nice.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:59 PM   #20
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Thanks Rich,

Depending on the weather we may go get it Thursday but it's in Kentucky and the weather may turn bad towards the end of the week.

Orin
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