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Old 05-18-2021, 08:20 AM   #21
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Sure, but I have found it is particularly UV sensitive. Annual replacement is in order. I use the pipe insulation at the top edge of my smoke window rock guards.
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
This gives me an idea - what about using some of the closed cell black pipe insulation (the stuff to keep hot water pipes hot)? It's already split and could slip over the edge of the tank cover where it meets the A-frame.
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Old 05-18-2021, 09:15 AM   #22
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The pipe insulation will stop the noise, but the tank cover will / could still move. As I stated before, the cover already has a hole in it from the vibration. I'll try it though.


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Old 05-18-2021, 10:44 AM   #23
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I replaced the center mount with a 1/2" 'all-thread' stainless steel rod. McMaster-Carr.

R & R the cross member with a 1-1/2" X 1/4" aluminum bar. McMaster-Carr. Mounted with #6 S/S screws, nuts, & washers. I needed to space the cross member with cuts from the aluminum bar to get enough clearance for the wing-nut to clear the bottom of the cover.

I used 1/2" S/S wing-nuts from Ace and the S/S washers and nuts came from Home Depot. (1/2").

I cut the corners of the battery box to 45 degrees and used rubber cut from a 'stock' pen pad, from Tractor Supply, to space, level, & buffer the propane cover at the bottom. Attached with NP-1.

No problem ;-).
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Old 05-18-2021, 11:17 AM   #24
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for just 3/8" - how about a split hose?

The pipe insulation Idea has merit and will crush easier, but may not last. Can you find a relatively thick walled length of rubber automotive heater hose and split one side?

Or try that wonderful world of McMaster Carr online - they have everything...

Ours has the opposite problem - the base contacts the tongue A-frame before the tank clamp is tight on the tank collars, so I had to add a few thick rubber grommets between the tank clamp and the cover bracket.
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Old 05-19-2021, 12:22 PM   #25
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You might want to try something like this to make up the gap.

https://www.amazon.com/Edge-Trim-Bla...s%2C290&sr=8-6
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Old 05-19-2021, 05:58 PM   #26
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Good day,
My 97 Safari has 4 rubber U shaped gaskets? that protect the A frame and are appropriately 1/4-3/8 thick.....
I would believe you are missing them.
I have no idea what you would call them for a web search..... a substitute or an actual part should be available somewhere. Good luck. Rick
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Old 05-19-2021, 09:11 PM   #27
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Cover

Again I wanted to know what the issue was so I checked my cover today and it is up over an inch and when it is tightened down it is solid even on the one contact point.I think there are more important things to worry about.
Like washing and waxing trailer.
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Old 05-20-2021, 04:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rust View Post
Again I wanted to know what the issue was so I checked my cover today and it is up over an inch and when it is tightened down it is solid even on the one contact point.I think there are more important things to worry about.
Like washing and waxing trailer.
Thanks for double checking. I wish mine was as stable as yours when up off the A-frame like that. Certainly not the most important thing in the world, but if I'm resetting everything up there I'd like to get it mounted as securely as possible.
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Old 05-20-2021, 07:33 AM   #29
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I think you might need to go back and look at the tank hold down bar. It’s been mentioned, but it seems like it’s a simple likely culprit possibly being overlooked. Don’t just bring it down on the top edge of the tank valve guard - tilt each tank and slip it in the “handle holes” on each tank.
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Old 05-20-2021, 07:51 AM   #30
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Your hold down is in the wrong position. Mine is in between the tank handle/hole. I’m not at home to take a photo. I cropped your photo, it should go through here which will drop the cover...
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Old 05-20-2021, 08:07 AM   #31
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All great ideas.
What bugs me is we're re-inventing the wheel.
The OP says he replaced the tanks...and the new tanks are the same as old tanks, but suddenly the cover isn't seating properly.
Something changed. What?
Putting the clamp in the wrong place would change the gap by 4" not 3/8".
I still think we need a picture of everything put together.

Everything I looked online said a 30 pound tank is 24" tall.
EXCEPT Worthington tanks are 23.7". I had an "a-ha" moment until I realized if the new tank was shorter, the cover would be too tight, not too loose.
That .3" is very close to the OP's gap. Old Worthington tank replaced with new 24" tank???
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Old 05-20-2021, 08:36 AM   #32
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I just went thru an adjustment on mine. My automatic tailgate opened while towing, and collided with the aluminum cover and also the tank brackets were bent....(second time this has happened.) When i removed the cover, it sat about same distance as yours. I turned the aluminum housing "upside down" on a flat concrete surface, got my sledge hammer out, held a piece of 2x4 on the center of the bracket over the mounting hole, and carefully hammered the aluminum center bracket, where nut goes. Not much effort and the hammering did the trick; the force on the center of the bracket widened the outer ends of the bracket where it connects to the aluminum housing enough so it now sits flush again around bottom of bottles.
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Old 05-20-2021, 09:02 PM   #33
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clamp

Yes make sure it is between handle and not on top of tanks for sure.
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Old 05-21-2021, 07:19 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RivetED View Post
I replaced the center mount with a 1/2" 'all-thread' stainless steel rod. McMaster-Carr.

R & R the cross member with a 1-1/2" X 1/4" aluminum bar. McMaster-Carr. Mounted with #6 S/S screws, nuts, & washers. I needed to space the cross member with cuts from the aluminum bar to get enough clearance for the wing-nut to clear the bottom of the cover.

I used 1/2" S/S wing-nuts from Ace and the S/S washers and nuts came from Home Depot. (1/2").

I cut the corners of the battery box to 45 degrees and used rubber cut from a 'stock' pen pad, from Tractor Supply, to space, level, & buffer the propane cover at the bottom. Attached with NP-1.

No problem ;-).
This turned out to be the solution for my installation.

By putting the hold-down cross bar inside the handles rather than on top of the rims, there was enough room on top for a separate wing nut to hold the tank cover in place. Once I find the exact placement of the upper wing nut to hold at the correct height, I'll slide a piece of copper pipe over the threaded rod between the two wing nuts so that the tank cover support doesn't sag with time.

I wasn't sure that the large wing nut (about 6" across) which came with my AS would fit between the tanks, but then I noticed someone previously has trimmed it down. Presumably this was when the tank cover was installed by a previous owner. What happened to the wing nut for the tank cover is unknown.

Thanks to all that provided suggestions. All helpful in figuring this out.
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Old 07-02-2021, 07:35 PM   #35
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And now...the finished project!

Now that the rehab/repaint on the A-frame is complete I was able to get the tanks reinstalled and figure out how to best secure the tank cover.

In the end, I did a few things to make the tank cover more stable. First, I used some leftover rubber seal from my rock rock guards to cushion the bottom of the tank cover. This will prevent it from rubbing off the new paint quite as quickly. It also seems to help keep the bottom of the tank cover from moving around.

Next, I notched a tiny bit out where the wires from the A-frame light switches run under the tank cover, as I didn't feel good having them get pressed into the A-from like they do. I'm guessing that these were installed at some point after the trailer left the factory, but they're there and need to be safe.

Last, I split the hold-down nuts on top into two places. I used the large aluminum wing nut to hold down the tank retaining bar and nothing else. Above that is a 2" length of 1/2" PVC pipe as a spacer, and then the tank cover support. It's held on with another large threaded knob. I like this solution since it allows the proper tension to be on the tanks without upsetting the placement of the tank cover. It also allows the tank cover to be removed while the tanks themselves are still firmly anchored.

Thanks to all who offered suggestions as I worked through this.
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