Problems with brand new 27FB

[Gringo]

Right now we are spending our second night in our new 27FB. We love it, but.....

it sure seems to have a lot of problems. I have been fixing little things for two days, but have run up against a few that are puzzling me. I won't go into all the little things I have been able to adjust or fix on my own. What is still on the punch list is:

1.) The fresh water tank sensor doesn't seem to work. It registers full even with an empty tank.

2.) the bubble level on the electric jack looked like I had done a great levelling job until I realized there there is no bubble in it. Optical illusion. There is a little circle that looks like a centered bubble, but there is no liquid in the thing. No liquid means no bubble. I don't think I can fix that.

3.) and more serious, I have posted in another forum about the water heater, but it's so hot that the water is dangerous. It's past scalding. I had to turn it off in fear of someone getting really burnt, or the plastic plumbing melting. The manual is no help. Seems to be for other heaters with knobs that regulate water temp. Unless there is a knob somewhere I don't know about. Can find nothing in any of the manuals that apply to this one.

4.) and this is the worst one. We hauled the AS from Houston to Dallas today. The door was working okay yesterday and today. Last time we used it was when we stopped for fuel this afternoon. Then we got to the campground, and I levelled it up and was trying to close the door, and it won't even come close to latching. It's like it moved on it's hinges enough. But the little latching jaw dogs in the door part don't line up with the round stud attached to the frame on the body. I tried to adjust it, but it seems that the whole assembly is riveted to the door frame. That's not the problem, anyhow. I can't find any way to adjust the hinges or move the door relative to the trailer body. I am going to have to tie it shut to drive tomorrow. Any thoughts on this?

Other than that.....

[Jim Foster]

How did you level the trailer?

[richinny]

i'll take the easy question about the doors :-)

you have stabilizers not levelers. they will twist the trailer body if tightened too much. nack them off and see how the door is. you'l need to drive up on some boards to level from side to side.

[Naper]

The thing on the jack is a light not a level

[sandlapper]

Sorry about your problems. Seems no trailers are immune from them , not even AS. Some have more than others.
Sensors in the tanks are notoriously unreliable. It may straighten itself out. The level should be easily replaceable at any rv store. Hot water heaters no longer seem to have temp adjustments . Try to develop the habit of turning on the COLD water first and then adding the HOT to adjust it to your liking. For sure, check your leveling proceedures. If you are "twisted" much at all it will affect the door.
Don't get too much bummed out over the problems, they are still great trailers, built by people, not robots, and sometimes things don't go just right. Not too comforting after all that money spent but still a fact of life. Safe & happy travels. John

[wheel interested]

Is the water too hot just in the shower? It might have the Moen positemperature and need to be adjusted. Our 27' FB Classic had that and it was too cold so we had to move the controller a notch or so. I think this shows it.

http://www.moen.com/shared/pdf/instr...ets/mt692c.pdf

I think the rear door and or the door frame flexes depending upon how the trailer is sitting. Different stops or places can make a difference in how the door opens and closes, although yours sounds very extreme. You don't have the stabilizer cranked up as to possibly twist the frame somewhat do you? Do you think "leveling it up" could account for the amont of flex you are experiencing? I guess what I am asking is if the problem is always the same or if it gets better or worse.

There is a recalibration that can be performed that might fix the sensor problem.

Airstream will stand by their warantee, make good use of it. There is also an Airstream tech hotline that you can call for advice and help in solving problems.

Toll Free Technical Support Line
1-877-596-6505

This is a voice mail system only. Your call will be returned within 24 hrs. After listening to a brief greeting, please record the following information:

• Your name
• Telephone number
• Specify trailer or motorhome
• Model year
• Last six digits of the Airstream serial number
• Brief description of problem or information need

There is also quite alot of information available in the service pages. http://service.airstream.com/custome...ice/index.html

[BTGT69]

On the door lock; I had same problem on my 2010 25" FC. There are 2 screws next to the locking jaws on the door. These jaws were striking the jamb stud head, making it amost impossibe to shut or especially open. I loosen these two screws which seemed to move the jaws out from the door to clear the stud head. I check it every day to make sure it is not coming apart. Temp solution til I can get to authorized dealer.

I am in LA in 88 degree heat, no shade. A/C operates for 30-45 minutes then shuts down for 1-2 minutes. I s

Is this normal ?

[Gringo]

Sorry, I should have followed up. Least I can do with all the help I have gotten from here.

Fresh water tank sensor doesn't indicate anything at all. the other stuff reads okay.

The little bubble level on the electric jack is definitely dry. It's not cracked, just no bubble.

The water is scaldingly hot. It's okay in the basins, the mixing valve faucets work okay. The shower is the dangerous part. It's easy to hit the mixing lever when moving around in here. Instant scalding hot. I'll have to think about that one. I think we're stuck with scalding hot water.

The door that wouldn't close was totally my fault. I cranked off the stabilizer right near that starboard rear corner, and it went back into shape. I didn't realize I had cranked it that far. I won't make that mistake again. Those levellers have some authority if you put some arm into it, it seems.

[Silver Goose]

It sounds like either the fresh water sensor is unplugged or the calibration procedure was not completed correctly. It should only need calibration when installed (at JC). In either case that should be fixed by an authorized dealer under warranty. The f/w tank sensor may not be easily accessible

As previously mentioned, there is a temperature adjustment on the shower control. Ours was initially just the opposite of yours. Swear I could cook hot dogs under the kitchen faucet but the showers we way too chilly. I found the adjustment as outline in the previous post and now the shower is just right when the lever is wide open.

I carry a rechargeable drill/driver. The kind that has an adjustable clutch to prevent over torquing screws. Camping World and most RV parts stores carry a socket that fits the stabilizer jack drive and has a 3 sided shank to fit the drill's chuck. This will run them up and down quickly and the clutch provides an equal, but not excessive amount of tension at all 4 corners.

[Aviator]

If the trailer needs to be leveled, you need to pull it up onto boards or leveling blocks under the wheels. The arms at the four corners are stabilizers ONLY. If you use them as levelers to support trailer weight, you risk damage to the trailer. We carry some of the yellow blocks which can be purchased at any RV supply place to put under the wheels for leveling purposes.

[steverino]

Re the bubble level on the jack; it's a simple replacement, just twist 1/4 turn to remove. Airstream or Barker (the jack manufacturer) should replace it under warranty.

However, I've found that the level is not terribly accurate; even if you calibrate it. The jack, and it's mounting system, is designed to flex according to load, levelness of the ground, etc, and can easily go out of plumb. A 12" carpenter's level, placed on the floor and checked length and cross-wise, will get you a lot closer to level.

Little problems - look it as an adventure, and have fun!

Steve

[Aage]

gringo,

do you think it would be more efficient to take the TT back to the dealer you bought it from and park (camp) in their lot till all the little problems are sorted out? Most dealers welcome this as a fast way to repair the deficiencies.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by Gringo

The water is scaldingly hot. It's okay in the basins, the mixing valve faucets work okay. The shower is the dangerous part. It's easy to hit the mixing lever when moving around in here. Instant scalding hot. I'll have to think about that one. I think we're stuck with scalding hot water.

Hi, you state that the shower is the only place where you can get burnt with hot water. Your shower control [single] handle should start with cold water and the farther you turn/move it the hotter water you will get. The handle can be adjusted to make the hot water flow sooner or later in the position of the handle. A little known fact is that the shower control cartridge can be installed up-side-down; In the up-side-down position, your shower handle will start with hot water first and the farther you turn/move the handle the colder it will get. This would be very awkward to use like this.

Also, with a proper valve set-up, in hot weather, the outside water is warmer and the shower handle doesn't have to move very far to get hot; In cold weather, I have found that the outside water is quite cold and I have to move my shower handle quite a bit farther to get a warm enough shower.

[kidsgone]

Gringo,
Very sorry to hear your problems. We did exactly what you did with the stabilizers and our door!! Thank goodness for great campers around us that day, they knew exactly what we had done!
Regarding the leveler on the jack, better to get replaced on warranty, however, I have learned theres nothing better than the door leveling method....open the bathroom door half way to see if it stays open or closes one way or another, then theres the "eye method", which I like and my hubby can't figure how I do it so well...my secret.
Water heater problems need to go to dealer, you paid for a good warrantly, let them check it out for peace of mind.
You'll get it all worked out, but its discouraging being so new...we can relate!
Enjoy your journeys..
Andi

[drew05]

Gringo,
Sorry to hear of your issues, but they really are minor issues. I too had door issues, and like you I did not have my stabilizers set correctly. WRT the bubble level on the jack, mine seems to have a mind of it's own. I will get it replaced next time I go to the dealer. As a more permanent fix, I bought a pair of small curved bubbles. I put one centered under the front window to help level left and right. The second one I placed on the street side of the propane cover to level fore and aft. I also keep an old 2 ft level to verify everything. I know some expect the jack level to remain accurate, but remember it usually sits out in the elements unprotected and does get beat up.

The hot water issue could be a simple adjustment at the valve, especially if it only affects the shower. Access shouldn't be to difficult. As an temporary fix, turn the water heater off before/when you take a shower, the water will be hot, but depending on water use it should cool down to help prevent scalding...

[SilverCottage]

To level the trailer I just put this on the front A-frame while running the jack up or down. About $8 and magnetic.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by Gringo

Those levellers have some authority if you put some arm into it, it seems.

The first thing is to quit calling them "levellers." They are only stabilizers and should not be used to level the trailer in any way.

First, level the trailer using the tongue jack and boards under the wheels on one side if needed. Then, and only then, put the stabilizers down. Crank them only until they are snug. The trailer should not move.

[jdalrymple]

The monitor in newer trailers works a bit differently than the old. It indicates the level in all tanks all the time by different colors of one particular led for each tank. You have to ask it to cycle through a process to see the level of each tank the old full-scale bar graph way. Took me a minute to figure that out.

If that's not the issue, look in your owner's manual packet for the booklet on the tank level monitor. I remember there is a calibration procedure for detecting the sensors. That may fix it.

Regards,

[CanoeStream]

Use your warranty period to full advantage. I went in for some early fixes on my '06 but definitely noticed that other issues emerged after a year of bumping down the road. Dealers want to help you on this!

You may find your door latch becomes harder to shut over time. They come out of the box only lightly lubed. Use the red tube and squirt some LPS-1 in there when this happens.

As nickcrowhurst always says, "The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."

[Gringo]

I appreciate all the comments and help. I definitely have a plan of action going forward on these issues. I will not likely be going back to the dealer where we bought the AS.

And as for maintenance issues....you guys don't know how well you have it. You should try living on a hilltop overlooking the ocean with the trade winds blowing through your home and shop and automobiles 24 hours a day for several years. The brass grommet that comes installed in an aluminum window screen will cause the aluminum to rot and the grommet will fall out within 90 days. As just one example.

Wanna hear about all the different types of stainless steel, and why most of them are a waste of money in a marine environment? Nah....I didn't think so...I have to carefully consider any two different metals being in contact with each other. Like a stainless fastener holding an aluminum roof. Even different types of aluminum....one is going to turn to powder.

The maintenance on this Airstream is going to be like a vacation from maintenance. I actually left a screwdriver out on the ground overnight in Dallas, and the next morning, it was NOT covered in rust! This just doesn't happen to me.