Please help, Running 12 volt for new refrigerator

[Tony S]

Hi Folks,

I will be installing a new refrigerator and need to run 12 volt to it. Could someone walk me through what is needed. It will be a Dometic rm2820 that I don't have yet.

I have 12 gauge stranded wire running in flex conduit. Does it terminate in a box with a certain type of cover?

Is there a standard or necessary height it should go to? Or does the wire just leave the conduit and secures someway to the refrigerator?

Do I locate in back of the refrigerator?

Anything else I need to know?

The 2 wires go back to the fuse 12 volt fuse panel?

I am sure my question show I could use some help but once I learn it I will be sure to pass it on to others. I would appreciate your help.

Many thanks in advance

Tony S
Rogue River, Oregon

[dznf0g]

I assume you have no existing wiring.
Yes, the proper way would be to run a circuit from the fuse panel to the rear of the fridge compartment.

Is this a 2 way or 3 way fridge?

There will be a black box on the back of the fridge with connections for 12V. The fridge will come with detailed wiring instructions. If is is a 2 way, you will need to run a 120V circuit as well with a GFCI protected breaker and outlet in the rear of the compartment. Running the circuits is the hard part, if your not in a gutted trailer.

[dznf0g]

RM2620.pdf

Here is the manual

[Tony S]

Thank You

It is a two way Ref. I have a 120 outlet at the Ref opening it is not GFCI but I can change it out.

The last picture shows, in process of, changing out univolt converter, with Boondocker Powermax 45 amp from Best Converter and new 12 volt fuse box.

Pic 1 show flex going to ref opening from rear of trailer

Pic 2 shows ref opening and outlet also show some of the stranded 12 gauge wire that I will use for 12 volt run if that is recommended.

Thanks I will look at the manual it will give me a heads up

Tony

[dznf0g]

Looks great, heck you're well on your way. I think the manual said 14ga, so you're fine with your 12ga. If you haven't already, read up on the enclosure construction. In particular, how a shaped "box" on the inner wall can greatly improve the heat rise to the vent. I was just reading a great writeup the other day, but I have no Idea where ...I was just surfing.

Also, take this opportunity to insulate the compartment and fridge really well. I think the compartment is 50% of the battle in having a cold fridge on hot days.

[Tony S]

I did read part of the manual about the wire hook up. I am out in the shop, mostly, until this evening. Many thanks.

By the way dznf0g I have enjoyed your Tag at the bottom of your posts for some time now. I'm handy enough with a face for radio.

Tony

[dznf0g]

Hey, handy has worked for my wife for almost 33 years now. But she only tells me so once in a great while, so it don't go to my head and she can keep some control over me, ya know?

[Roadrunner]

Tony I'll be watching this thread with interest as I'm about to replace the Dometic in our "74" Tradewind. What did the original cabinet look like to the right of your old refrigerator. I've got some rickety plywood cabinet that needs to go.

Bob
Indiana, PA

TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

[Tony S]

Roadrunner the cabinet was a 10" wide 57" give or take doored cabinet with several fixed shelves in it. It was ok but very tight to work with. I plan on doing a pull out of some sort. I never done one before but I am looking at rev-shelves.

I have some pics of the cabinet arrangement to inquired about. I will post them later this evening. I need to run now.

Tony

[Tony S]

Here you go Roadrunner. I hope they help. I maybe selling 1973 interior parts Cabinet components. Face frames doors and the like. This was a great interior as pics show

Tony