Part 3: 27FB Separation Lessons Learned and Discovery

[Ray Eklund]

When you discover the Indents... that is probably due to the one Buck Rivet at a diagonal to the Storage Compartment Door. This Buck Rivet, I believe, IS THE CAUSE OF THE INDENT.

Then tearing of this .04 inch thick skin. Almost like a manila envelope that does not crease, flex or return back to is original condition... once distorted. I have had no confirmation that this is the... culprit. But... it is the only Rivet there and once looking between the front and inside skin, deep into the wall is a partial support. Another engineered problem with the FB models with this vertical support that has room to go to the lower floor, but stops about 3 inches above and hangs. No doubt FLEXING when the trailer rocks side to side.

Now to how to avoid Separation of the Shell.

I have never restored a trailer of any kind. I have no choice as no Airstream Dealer or ASJC, do follow the Airforums... as my photographs were used to present my situation by my Dealer. Even the name of their contact.

I have heard... as much as you have that YOU are the problem. How you tow, how you travel, tires, hitches, the color of your curtains... YOU are the Problem causing and creating damage and water entry into your Airstream.

Had you avoided precipitation. Humidity. Snow. Frost. Salty fog and camped along the Ocean. Roads that are uneven. Service Station ingress and egress YOU need to change... not the trailer. It is a Victim.

It takes no OSHA Inspector to figure this out. You are a Neanderthal. But a well educated one.

WATER:

If there is one preventive measure for Front Separation of the Shell... keep water out of this inner wall area. The plywood rots, screws/rivets and frame members have no support.

My area is dry, never any indication of being wet. That was the BEST news I discovered.

Your GASKET that your Front Storage Compartment seals agains... has to be perfectly sealed. Water can be driven into the forward motion when towing into a Rain. THIS is the biggest factor... in my novice, don't know a Sh&^%t, observation.

Having water getting in... you are up the proverbial Creek to Hell. You will regret not paying attention. With the Storage Door Frame rippled with the Buck Rivet installation... you can see all the possible water entries.

We caulked the entire upper and lower trim already. We are going to do it AGAIN. I am also looking for every other area that may, might or has any indication of Water Entry.

This is the most important and easiest prevention you can do for your Airstream. Really... any model.

Once they leak. Forget about fixing it at home. Ask those who know how to restore older Airstreams. Down to the FRAME and replacing all of the plywood to that resistant to Water Rot and expanding plywood to thick sawdust and rusted hardware.

You want your Compartment Door to be INSIDE the frame and not sticking out, like those I have seen. Water gets past those that are exposed.

If there is any interest, great and others can learn.

Keep Water Out. ASJC does use SCREWS with the front rivets. I took photographs. They also created problems I could not work around. I would have had to remove the outer trim... which I would have to try to purchase from ASJC, to replace.

[kscherzi]

Ray, I struggle to get a picture of the construction in my head.

As I understand, a layer of plywood lays on top of the steel trailer frame, on top of that is an aluminum channel that runs around the trailer perimeter held to the frame by steel bolts drilled through the plywood and aluminum channel into the steel frame. They used the large steel 3" plates as washers on top the aluminum channel, I assume to spread the load holding the aluminum channel and plywood to the steel frame.

Then riveted into the flat aluminum channel are vertical aluminum frame members making up the larger trailer frame. Then onto all that the aluminum skin is then riveted onto the aluminum frame, and also onto the aluminum channel bolted to the frame at the base.

Are you suggesting the vertical frame members to the right and left of the compartment opening are not secured to the aluminum channel, but rather terminate loosely inches above the channel?

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

Ray, I struggle to get a picture of the construction in my head.

As I understand, a layer of plywood lays on top of the steel trailer frame, on top of that is an aluminum channel that runs around the trailer perimeter held to the frame by steel bolts drilled through the plywood and aluminum channel into the steel frame. They used the large steel 3" plates as washers on top the aluminum channel, I assume to spread the load holding the aluminum channel and plywood to the steel frame.

Then riveted into the flat aluminum channel are vertical aluminum frame members making up the larger trailer frame. Then onto all that the aluminum skin is then riveted onto the aluminum frame, and also onto the aluminum channel bolted to the frame at the base.

Are you suggesting the vertical frame members to the right and left of the compartment opening are not secured to the aluminum channel, but rather terminate loosely inches above the channel?

*****

Yes.

How many people do you know who have taken their time, effort and risk to open this area up... from under their FB Bed... to discover... Oh Sh&%$T.

The curb side I could not get a good shot with electronics protected in this area. It looked to be the same. The shiny metal is the frame support... a bit short. You will also see some screws applied behind the exterior trim... obviously not RIVETS.

The rivets I saw did not appeared to be hammered. They looked like someone took wire clippers and clipped what they could and a mild flattening on the exposed top of the rivet and not against the trim. Probably because it, the framing is thin.

Had this been taken care of by 'trained service people' whom seem to come and go at a Dealership... I would still be ignorant. It is a steep learning curve. I am not shocked... but obviously someone believes the Airstream Fairy comes by at night and repairs what needs to be... while you sleep.

How can a Dealership not take their own photographs to provide to ASJC as evidence that something is going on? My photos were used. I have a 15 year old Nikon that takes excellent photos... but crouched into a small area... and getting close enough for a Photo Shoot of something that just should not be there.

Nancy and I stripped the Rock Guards off so they could examine these areas.

We pulled out the mattress and put it in our home... so they could access the area more conveniently, removing the single layer plywood holding the mattress and giving access to this storage area from the Inside. This is where everyone needs to get a good... look.

Our Rock Guards have all the rivets holding the bottom... pulled out. Both sides. We were told that replacements run about $500. What? Am I responsible for fixing that myself... too?

I am just disappointed. Warranty? Great for Sales. Lousy for an Owner.

[Ray Eklund]

I have completed what could possible... HELP... secure some structure to what is not.

Two photographs are on the inside of the compartment, looking from where the wood paneling was removed to get into the area to work.

The three pieces of Aluminum at Lowes cost me $37.81, with my Veteran's Discount. Yaaa Hooo 1969 to 1970!!!

The second two photographs are threaded screws where I expected Buck Rivets. These are behind the trim at the bottom of the entire trailer.

I knew nothing when I began. I do not know if this will 'firm up' this area, but better than what I saw at the beginning. The thick piece of aluminum is on the other side of this finished area. Two large bolts that had the steel spacers. I drilled out the aluminum bar for the bolts, laid the two steel spacers onto them, I pushed the bolt from under the trailer, through the framing, she put a washer and then the nut and tightened them. I had a wrench to keep the bolt from moving while they were being tightened. Afterwards, I added a self locking nut onto each and Double Nutted them.

I do not 'believe' these will become loose, like they were when I first found them and tightened them... and later removed to find the Aluminum Bar, drilled holes and lined everything up.

The rubber gasket is set in the edges of aluminum. Tonight I will take a light, shine it towards the gasket. If Nancy sees light... I will figure that out as well. One thing at a time. This should be the end of my education. I did not want to learn On The Job... but sitting on my Donkey fixed nothing.

Be well. Take care of your Airstream. YOU take care of your Airstream and the Airstream will take care of you.

[GOUSC]

Originally Posted by kscherzi

Ray, I struggle to get a picture of the construction in my head.

As I understand, a layer of plywood lays on top of the steel trailer frame, on top of that is an aluminum channel that runs around the trailer perimeter held to the frame by steel bolts drilled through the plywood and aluminum channel into the steel frame. They used the large steel 3" plates as washers on top the aluminum channel, I assume to spread the load holding the aluminum channel and plywood to the steel frame.

Then riveted into the flat aluminum channel are vertical aluminum frame members making up the larger trailer frame. Then onto all that the aluminum skin is then riveted onto the aluminum frame, and also onto the aluminum channel bolted to the frame at the base.

Are you suggesting the vertical frame members to the right and left of the compartment opening are not secured to the aluminum channel, but rather terminate loosely inches above the channel?

I believe the attached should describe what Ray is seeing behind the skin in in RV. This is a drawing the JC Service techs did to describe the issue before their fix and after in August, 2019. The top half of the paper describes "before" and the bottom in "after'.

The extended the middle 2 supports to the subfloor / added thicker L brackets and through bolted thru the subfloor (vs just screws before).

[GOUSC]

The below pictures are what the front end looks like a little more than 2 years later. Aluminum skin is splitting at the lower right corner and there a large dimples to the lower left and right of the front storage compartment where water can intrude.

I have sealed all areas with Acryl-R in advance of my November appt with a private repair person to see what's going on in this area.

All of these symptoms seen consistent with what Ray is seeing in his RV. I just don't have the expertise to repair this myself.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by GOUSC

The below pictures are what the front end looks like a little more than 2 years later. Aluminum skin is splitting at the lower right corner and there a large dimples to the lower left and right of the front storage compartment where water can intrude.

I have sealed all areas with Acryl-R in advance of my November appt with a private repair person to see what's going on in this area.

All of these symptoms seen consistent with what Ray is seeing in his RV. I just don't have the expertise to repair this myself.

*****
You will if you watch someone work on this. Taking something apart to REPAIR a future problem...is iffy and I did it out of total frustration of ME being the expert and the Experts were... well... scratching their Buttocks.

The problem is ACCESS to this support to extend. The Street side has better access than the Curb Side, which has Electronics that need to be temporarily moved. Not something I wanted to get into. That... works.

Go from the INSIDE under the Bed where the storage compartment is located, you would have to CUT less aluminum for access to the Left and Right. Then patch with a 'stronger' patch of aluminum skin to cover the accessed area. The work would all be concealed behind the Bed.

Maybe removing that one Buck Rivet will solve most of the Indent... but at what consequence? It can be riveted back, but that could make it worse.

Otherwise... like the Airstream approach from the Front Exterior Skin, you remove the Storage Frame, Door and all the Buck Rivets up to the Buck Rivets on the lower frame of the large window. The interior skin is underneath. Myself... I would take it up to the base of the window frame and 'curl the aluminum sheet' so that you do not crease it... but able to move it out of the way... do the extension... and let it relax back to the frame members... seal, the edges, Buck Rivet.

With new Buck Rivets, the Rock Guards will need to have pilot holes to secure the hinges. This is where you discover more and more needing work on the exterior option.

No One wants to do this 'repair'. Too many things to remove... and then... not know if this created more trouble. A Catch 22 situation.

The 'short cut' maybe from the inside aluminum. This can be be concealed after the repair because the Bed and Night Stands are there. Just a small exposed area in between.

This one 'short support', which I cannot understand WHY as it is hanging there by itself with space to the side to side bracket. I took the longe aluminum Bar and screwed it in the area. Earlier photos.

This short support CREATES the Indent... and eventually fatigues the Aluminum
Skin and a split develops.

Since the split is diagonal and towards the storage frame... it is, I think, contained. It cannot go any further than the Storage Frame and to the 1" wrap with rivets above the frame. Aluminum tape... easy. Get extra Caulk on the top of the wrap behind the Rock Guards too. WATER... is the danger to further damage. Stop the water getting in... and NO Detachment to consider.

That is my Theory... and no one is talking, whispering or pulling me aside with additional information.

The Indents are a beginning AND end, as it is in a limited area and maybe this is the worse you can suffer.

The SERIOUS SEPERATION is the Front Skin coming loose... behind the Wrap Water is probably worse than some minor trim bulges from rivets popping. A bulge here or there is a Rivet or a SCREW. Mine has both. Screws that are 3X the length needed. Who did this? They sure did leave their name or initials

SECURE THE AREA from WATER PENETRATION. Underneath the plastic outside panels are very... sloppy in fit. I am considering sealing those and drilling holes to drain any water...which may not be an issue. Maybe.

It takes more time to describe than doing some investigations by pulling the Interior skin back to get to this area. You will have to CUT this section of interior skin at the bottom, center is best I now know, pull it back into an arch. This five inch or less skin is not secured the entire length of the Storage Frame. You can see the Street side 'short' bracket easily... but cannot work on it unless you cut the inside CURVE... now you are back to wondering... What Next?

[Ray Eklund]

If the problem is stabilized by removing the exterior Buck Rivet. Great.

Seal the hole in the Skin... aluminum tape, doubled or triple thick?

If the problem is not stabilized...you have to dig in anyways. For an Indent... best first option. The long cure... may be a bigger issue.

From all of this investigation... to FIX the Problem might be Worse than FIXING this Problem. The two exterior Rivets are creating the problem, as the interior support is just hanging and may flex. Working the exterior skin, back and forth once the indent is there. It is this FRAME MEMBER, I believe creates the Indent. Remove the Rivet... the indent may relax and be... happy. ?

[panamerican]

Well, I often wondered what the "fix" was for this. Seems totally foreign to me that if what I read was correct, they had a dedicated staff to do this repair for how long when all they needed to do what what GOUSC posted.

Put in two "L" brackets and bolts rather than screws. Wonder why they didn't do that in the first place given that area is very likely to get exposed to stresses as the main point of contact for trailering....but alas, I'm not an engineer or bean counter.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by panamerican

Well, I often wondered what the "fix" was for this. Seems totally foreign to me that if what I read was correct, they had a dedicated staff to do this repair for how long when all they needed to do what what GOUSC posted.

Put in two "L" brackets and bolts rather than screws. Wonder why they didn't do that in the first place given that area is very likely to get exposed to stresses as the main point of contact for trailering....but alas, I'm not an engineer or bean counter.

*****
This would be very expensive at $140 to $170 an hour, I heard quoted for paying out of Pocket. THIS is the preferred option... rather than WARRANTY issue. The Skin is the cheap part. Labor... very time consuming project!

This was known. There IS ROOM for a complete bracket. It is not a having the space to secure the front. For some reason, unknown to a Neanderthal working at home from no information... to figure out the reasoning.

The two bolts I spoke of that I secured with a bar of thick aluminum from Lowes... were the best option I could do. The other two parts finished securing the loose skin inside the Storage Compartment at behind the lower compartment frame. Mine had 'ripples' in it as it was too long after the interior hole was cut, like the exterior to mount the door frame.

The earlier drawing could have had an extended FRAME. Why Not? That is the problem. Three inches more, secured to the lower frame... NO PROBLEM?

The cost was nothing to do it properly. Why not...? We are now stuck with it.

When that is known... everything else is just digging the corpse out of a Cemetery, making sure it has a deceased individual still residing within.

OK. Back into my comfortable Cavern... making flint tools for the Mammoth Hunt.

[Ray Eklund]

There must be some New Ideas from those interested.

The front and rear panels are the same dimensions @ 31 inches x 51 inches.
The front and rear windows are 23.5 inches x 49.5 inches.

There are 10 Buck Rivets on the Front middle panel and Rear Lower middle panel. Two are offset.

The FB has 2 above the storage frame and 1 below where the Indents occur.
The FB has the other 2 rivets above the storage door.

I would have also thought the Ten Rivets would do it when adding the Storage Compartment.

The 2 top rivets on each side have the 3rd missing, but have the lower 4th where the indents are found.

There is not much else to see. Moving 2 rivets on the Top of the Rear Panel above the door frame is where the two missing Buck Rivets on the Rear of the trailer were placed. If you have FB Model you can see the Rivet pattern

Maybe someone with a Rear Bed has some Rivet information. It may not mean anything.

RIVETS. Supports. Engineers like Symmetry. This time... it may have been a bad idea.

Any comments? It makes for good reading, but the Indents are to be expected in the FB Models. Skin Separation? I suspect WATER and MOISTURE is the culprit. How is the water getting below the Storage Frame and Door and Gasket?

That could be the $2,500 question answered (whatever the FIX may cost?). Do you have water penetration behind the compartment door and frame? A good place to being looking. I do not. This just occurred and captured my attention.

Difficult situations often have Simple Solutions. Like three inches or so of an unsecured support? Maybe. Simple... but ignored?

[Baron 8TB]

Ray,

Been following this. Is yours a queen bed? Does this issue seem to occur in both the queen bed versions and the twin beds as well? I seem to recall the storage areas are different between the two.

Greg

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by Baron 8TB

Ray,

Been following this. Is yours a queen bed? Does this issue seem to occur in both the queen bed versions and the twin beds as well? I seem to recall the storage areas are different between the two.

Greg

*****
We have the Queen Bed. Someone with the Twin may step up and add to the story.

I have NOT attempted to remove the plastic curved pieces below the exterior that are pop riveted to check the Bolts on both sides attached to the frame, as to being Tight, or not. That is another possible weak link to check.

From my having knowledge only of the Queen and NOT the Twin, do both having Wide Storage Compartments, or Not. It would be interesting to know how many Rivets in the Twin Bed model and their locations, and if there are Indents on both, or only the FB models.

If no indents. For Twin Owners, great news. This will focus more on the placement of the Ten Rivets and if their placement makes any difference, at all.

My hope is the Indents are Rivet Placement on the FB and that will be the ONLY problem and not progress any further.

The Front Detachment may be water related. No one has mentioned having Detached Skin on a 2010 or LATER FB Model. Am I making an assumption? If ASJC would step forward and EXPLAIN which FB Models have any problem and the difference in the Queen and Twin Bed models... a lot of misinformation could be corrected.

Or is this a CYA... situation?

I have not parsed my wording or proof read before typing these posts... so some sentences may seem awkward... it is just as if I am speaking to myself and no one is around to care or listen. That kind of conversation...

[fran&frank]

Well Ray your exploratory surgery and the drawing from GOUSC sure are informative. I think I'll tackle this this winter but not sure if I'll open up the interior skin and extend those vertical supports to the bottom channel or overlay some heavy aluminum over the interior skin to pick up those vertical members and attach them to the floor. --Frank

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by fran&frank

Well Ray your exploratory surgery and the drawing from GOUSC sure are informative. I think I'll tackle this this winter but not sure if I'll open up the interior skin and extend those vertical supports to the bottom channel or overlay some heavy aluminum over the interior skin to pick up those vertical members and attach them to the floor. --Frank

******

I have yet to have one Post that has Separation issues for a late model FB model.

The term Separation, has been used on restorations of pre 1990 models. Corrosion where the skin is attached to the frame and the shell to the plywood floor (?). I do not even know if the plywood is even related to Later Model FB's.

There in not one mention of ASJC stepping up and describing the different 'cause and effect of the Buck Rivet Indent'... and the term Separation of anything.

Even a "Mea Culpa" would set things straight.

There is not one mention of someone with a late model Airstream that had ANY Separation, anywhere. Yet some 2021 had indents and ASJC took this on as a Warranty Issue.

I keep looking for anything that appears to be a major problem with my discovery of the left and right lower corner indents. Obvious, to me that is, the indents are due to the Buck Rivet and the Bracket hanging from something above. The possible removal of the Rivet... may relieve the tension.

When I read the Separation Threads from some years ago, researching why I had these two Indents... they were 1980 models with corrosion from WATER. Not failure of Rivets. Anyone know otherwise?

I photographed the three Aluminum pieces to add some strength up front. Even after thinking about that... this may be not even related to older models with plywood damage and corrosion of the Aluminum Skin and Frame at the bottom. Total Skin off Frame Projects.

Many are concerned with their Black Tank clogs and how many Lithium Batteries and Solar Panels are needed to run an Air Conditioning... and not even spending too much time on the Excess Weight... other than WHERE to Add Batteries. You would think this would throw any trailer off.

After two years, plus a couple months... the Indents were not noticed. The right one had the tear and it goes to the Storage Frame. Not a concern to me.

The Dealer said "No Detachment". Well, what do these Indents indicate?

I am now leaning towards the Indents are as bad as this can get. Maybe tighten the two Nut and Bolts to the Frame where the supports would have been placed.

Frank may be thinking the same, as others. I hear nothing. "Hear no Evil. See no Evil. Speak no Evil." The three monkey figures from decades ago.

The more members that can comment on Front Beds models, Queen and Twin options... this could be settled quickly. Only those with Indents have had the initial quest for answers. I am a bit late... but persistent and will keep digging the hole until it is finished.

Maybe repairs require a 'gag order'. Speak no Evil.

My 2019 model may be the Last of the 27 foot Airstreams with Propane Appliances we use. All electric is not what we have an interest, at all. Even that I do not know for sure.

I do not want to be wandering a Dealer's Parking Lots inspecting all of the Front Bed Models for... you know what. Taking photographs. I have done enough now, just to get everyone thinking what we are looking at.

Because it is Tuesday... I am leaning towards... two Indents... So What?

No worse than Rock Dings on the Rock Guards. That is what they are for. Put good long Rock Flaps on the Tow Vehicle. That is what they are for.

[nryn]

These threads have me going through old records. I don't recall signing an NDA for this repair, might as well post about the experience.

I've mentioned elsewhere that when I brought my trailer into JC for it's first warranty service, roughly a year (and many miles) after purchase, two of the items on my list were worded as follows:

• "rub rail gap near front cargo compartment. Please inspect/fix"
• 'Occational water when driving in rain in front cargo compartment. Not a lot of water and I can't find source of leak"

This was the photo I provided for that first item. Someone on my trip to Alaska had mentioned front end separation (they had a FC bunk) but I didn't know much about it. At this point in time, this was entirely a cosmetic issue (one of several that were all addressed either at my dealer or on this trip to JC), and I had no idea the gap and the water intrusion were related.



When they were done with service I looked over the report and talked to the tech. The service report for this item reads as follows:



"Found front end separation. Removed bed assembly and front inside metal. Tied down front end. Reassembled."

I assume all the numbers above are parts that were necessary for the repair.

The tech explained to me what they do and I recall being shocked that a little separation of trim could result in the much of the front of the trailer being disassembled for repair. I asked him if I had done anything wrong and he said no, this is an issue with the way that the trailers are built (much of that rehashed in these threads). He said it doesn't matter if you have a big truck or weight distribution and seemed firm in his belief that I should just keep doing what I had been doing.

I called my service manager afterwards for more explanation for some of the service items. He responded:

"on 27’ and longer trailers the frame will be stiff and the bouncing road will loosen up the body. When it is fixed, bolted heavy L brackets will keep things together."

Anyway, this is what I have from my JC visit. The tech sure made it sound like I would not be seeing this problem again. I do have two very minor concave areas in the aluminum now, extending from the bottom of the cargo compartment corners diagonally to the frame. You'd have to be looking for them to see them and I don't think I could get a good photograph of them easily. We'll see if they get worse. The only thing I've done is lighten up on the WD (a lot, and only because things seem to ride better that way).

[GOUSC]

Ray - RYI I have a 27FB twin that had the separation issue. I know of 3 other FB Twin Globetrotters that had the same issue.

NRYN - I had the same protruding trim molding in the same area as you. I just thought it was a loose screw. I pulled back the trim / put the screw back in and it kept working it’s way out. Had the same item on my warranty work list before I was told it was frame separation.

[djz]

Hi

I have a 2020 27FB Globetrotter. After reading and seeing the above pictures I drove down to look at mine in storage. I found a very slight bulge on the base of both sides of the front storage compartment. It may be hard to see in the below picture:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1634759299

I also have the Equalizer WD unit that was installed at the dealer:

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/110197522117548788/

I only used the trailer about 6 times and have about 3500 miles on the road.

I am NOT finding any rivets broken/missing just the approximate 1/8 inch indent shown in the picture. Please let me know if it appears that I also have the same problem.

Thanks

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by djz

Hi

I have a 2020 27FB Globetrotter. After reading and seeing the above pictures I drove down to look at mine in storage. I found a very slight bulge on the base of both sides of the front storage compartment. It may be hard to see in the below picture:

https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1634759299

I also have the Equalizer WD unit that was installed at the dealer:

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/110197522117548788/

I only used the trailer about 6 times and have about 3500 miles on the road.

I am NOT finding any rivets broken/missing just the approximate 1/8 inch indent shown in the picture. Please let me know if it appears that I also have the same problem.

Thanks

I would say that you are in the very early stages. I doubt you have any actual separation at this point. If it were me, I'd ditch the equalizer for a more compliant flexible hitch with an appropriate bar rating....not necessarily "what the dealer had on hand". Then carefully analyze how much WD is really necessary per TV owner manual.

If you remediate, I wouldn't do anything about the AS in its current stage of development.

[Ray Eklund]

I have come to believe that the one Buck Rivet on each side of the partial support is the direct cause and effect for the Indents on each side.

All of the other Buck Rivets on the Front and Rear are pretty much flush, unlike those on the sides of the Airstream.

Remove the Buck Rivet... and this should RELAX the Tension.

I just do not know how to drill the rivet out. I can cover the hole with aluminum tape, if this is the 'cure', another problem is the keeping this hole secure from water. The aluminum tape is very dependable and the adhesive is excellent. Double it up.

Do not count on replacing this rivet. Even from the Interior this is an area hard to reach.

POP the Rivet. Relive tension of the Indent or Prevent an Indent before it occurs? Ask the Airstream Fairy.