Olympic Rivet Replacement

[trailerpup]

I have a new 2019 FC that has had the front corner segment replaced. Unfortunately, when they installed the Olympic rivets they left the o-rings on.

I'm thinking about trying to remove and replace the Olympic rivets using Vulkem instead of the o-rings to avoid issues in the future with the o-rings failing.

So far my list of parts/tools for the job include...

High quality rivet gun
Vulkem to seal the rivets
Olympic rivets
Parr Parbond
Rivet head shaver

I have done a lot of research via searches here on Air Forums and the internet but still had a couple questions...

Not sure of which "type" Vulkem to purchase. And, what is best way to clean the Vulkem (never used this product before. Perhaps it just wipes up after each rivet is installed with no "cleaner" needed?).

Not sure what depth rivets to purchase. Not sure if depth will be the same for body seam, rivets under window...

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[featherbedder]

I have never used Vulkem only parbond. Word of caution goof off will remove clear coat, some one else posted I was wrong, well it def. removed clear coat on my 76 AS when cleaning w/parbond after sealing rub rail.

[Iansk]

TremPro 635 is the new vulkum.

Clean up with mineral spirits.

It gets everywhere, wear clothes you don’t care about.

Rivet length shouldn’t be too long, at most you’ll be going through four layers.

Ian

[Iansk]

Add an auto punch to your list. It’ll help you by (in theory) pushing the mandrel in a bit and giving you a secure place to start drilling.

High quality drill bits of the size rivet you’ll be installing. Should be the same size as what’s in there so be precise.

Ian

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by featherbedder

I have never used Vulkem only parbond. Word of caution goof off will remove clear coat, some one else posted I was wrong, well it def. removed clear coat on my 76 AS when cleaning w/parbond after sealing rub rail.

Clear coat is different today, not sure if this is still an issue. Also, I am surprised that a 76 still had any clearcoat left.

[trailerpup]

Good call on the auto punch, I have one in the tool box.

I thought maybe the Tremco 116. I'll look for Trempro 635.

The guy from Airstream mentioned something called Nasco oil based cleaner and Tenex.

[Bill M.]

A stop block for the drill bit to keep it from catching and feeding on through.

[dznf0g]

Removing that many rivets, I would get a rivet removal tool. Accuracy counts, especially a whole panel replacement.


https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool.../dp/B005VR2L3Q

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

Clear coat is different today, not sure if this is still an issue. Also, I am surprised that a 76 still had any clearcoat left.

My 76 only place clear coat gone is on roof to rivet line. If kept waxed probably would still have clear coat on roof except only washed roof 5 or 6 times in 44 yrs. side washed once a yr. Parts of both end caps sides up to awning rail & a little above still very shiny no filiform etc. 3/4 inch above rub rail 6 inch long goof off removed clear coat. The new AS not shiny like older AS, use what others have posted to remove sealants.

[trailerpup]

Decided to have Airstream do a re-do at the factory. Saving all this useful information for down the road.

Thank you for the great info and useful tips all!