Oh, Oh!

[dznf0g]

Can anyone tell me how to get the tail light housings (the cast aluminum ones) off? I have lost the LED pigtail behind the housing!

Edit: 2007 Classic

[Wabbiteer]

I'd figure it dropped and drifted to one of the side edges- I'd spend a long time trying to fish it out with skinny various wire hooks before contemplating dissecting anything!!

[Airslide]

Is it the dual LED type?

[dznf0g]

I finally got it. The pigtails are, NATURALLY!!!!!!!, cut too short to come out of the hole in the plastic backing "can". I had to cut the hole bigger with a Dremmel so I could get 3 fingers and a coat hanger down there. I believe the only way to get the cast aluminum bezels off is to remove the bedroom and the inner skin!

FYI, If you do need to replace the LEDs which LED4RVs offers for the late model 4 lamp Classics and similar, the warranty which Dan can get from the mfr. requires that the pigtails and connectors be in place. That's where I got into so much trouble.

If you don't care about any warranty coverage, it is FAR, FAR easier to cut the wires downstream from the connector and splice in the new lamps. It is SOOOO hard that at $35 each, it MIGHT be worth it to cut the wires and just pay if they go bad.

This was the hardest job I have ever had to do on an AS thus far!

[ROBERT CROSS]

If and when...I think I'll try a couple LED bulbs first. See if I like 'em.

Glad you were able to get the wiring out, hate it when that happens.
Came real close for me when I was sealing the trunk last Spring, wiring for the light disappeared, thought for sure it went behind the skin, you know how hard it is to get inside the trunk of a Classic? Finally found it behind the close-out panel, know how hard it is to get OUT?

Bob

[jm2]

if you're dealing with physically "short" leads coming out of the hole, these connectors from Tyco (Model # CPGI-CWT-9002-15) might be useful to extend them to a more usable length.

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 22-18, 15/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9002-15 at The Home Depot

I use a small butane torch to install them, and they come in larger sizes, too.

best,

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by jm2

if you're dealing with physically "short" leads coming out of the hole, these connectors from Tyco (Model # CPGI-CWT-9002-15) might be useful to extend them to a more usable length.

SolderGrip Heat-Shrink/Solder Multiple Wire Butt Splices, 22-18, 15/Clam-CPGI-CWT-9002-15 at The Home Depot

I use a small butane torch to install them, and they come in larger sizes, too.

best,

Yeah, but getting to them to extend them is the issue!.. I have used those heat solder/shrink connectors before. They're nice.

[dznf0g]

By the way, if you ever do this, when you finally do get the connector semi-out, when you connect the new LED, zip tie the connector together. That way if you ever have to remove them again, you can pull the harness enough, without the connector coming apart and losing the end of the harness.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I replaced my LED tail lights several years ago. The factory lights were failing. I bought new lights on line and ordered the pigtail connecters too. My wires were sealed in place real good so they couldn't go anywhere, but they were pretty short. I now have all four lights connected to the pig tails with a standard three wire plug on each one. [like the trucks use]

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I replaced my LED tail lights several years ago. The factory lights were failing. I bought new lights on line and ordered the pigtail connecters too. My wires were sealed in place real good so they couldn't go anywhere, but they were pretty short. I now have all four lights connected to the pig tails with a standard three wire plug on each one. [like the trucks use]

Are you saying they were hard wired and butt connected from the factory and you ordered 3 prong connectors?

Mine had the 3 prong connectors already. They were electrical taped together....I guess to ensure not vibrating loose. But the electrical tape wasn't enough to hold them together to pull the connectors out.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, yes mine were hard wired; I now have about a 6" pig tail for each light and my lights also have about 6"s of wire from the light housing to the connector.

[JFScheck]

Wow - great story shared with us, and reminder that when working on your "stream" to be careful of what you disconnect and might drop behind alumni walls!

[jm2]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Yeah, but getting to them to extend them is the issue!..

hmm, sounds like a small market for "cable extenders". what kind of connectors are used? I'll bet we can find them and fab them up!

pictures, anyone?

[dznf0g]

Here ya go, have at it!

[jm2]

any identifying markings on those connectors?

already tried Grote - they're closed today, but this may a start to a solution?

Grote Industries: Product #67000 - 11 1/2" Long, Chassis Ground, Blunt-Cut Wires

[jm2]

actually, am finding PL-3FS sockets with 10" pigtails for $1.49, and

Pl-3S or PL-3R plugs with 10" pigtails for $1.49, at Super Bright LEDs here - Truck Light Plugs, Connectors & Sockets

add three butt splices, and you're in!

not the perfect solution, since I'd prefer not to have the additional butt splices, but inexpensive and simple enough?

ymmv.

[dznf0g]

No markings whatsoever.
That does look like the same connector.
I think you'd want to make a 6" pigtail with a male on one end and a female on the other. There, seriously, not enough length to the trailer harness to cut and add butt connectors. There is barely enough to get your fingers around to plug into.