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Old 05-03-2021, 07:28 PM   #1
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No battery power

Stopped at a remote campground with 2017 International and there was no power from the battery. On my AS, the relay is under the sofa adjacent to the battery compartment. When I hooked up shore power, it only powered the 110v wall outlets and the microwave clock. I tried to make sure all the relay connections were tight, but nothing is working. Any advice, we’re stuck looking for a hotel or something.
The battery is fine, the jack works fine.
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:20 PM   #2
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You might be able to connect both wires to the same post on the relay to bypass the relay temporarily.
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Old 05-03-2021, 10:29 PM   #3
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There are two posts, which one should i connect to?
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Old 05-04-2021, 03:40 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rage51 View Post
There are two posts, which one should i connect to?
Doesn't matter. Put both big wires on the same post and you've bypassed the relay.
Do you hear any clicking when you try the store/use switch?
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Old 05-04-2021, 04:27 AM   #5
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Do you have a meter or 12VDC test light? Good basic diagnostic tools for electrical troubleshooting.'

Test light, hook clamp to a good ground. Touch probe to one side of relay big cable coming from battery. It should light up. Now try opposite terminal that supplies power to trailer. It will light up with relay working. You can do same to the incoming power that turns relay on and off. One side I bet is just grounded, other side gets power from switch to energize relay.

Pic of relay might help diagnosis.

Gary
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Old 05-04-2021, 07:49 AM   #6
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The store/use switch doesn’t make any sound.
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Old 05-04-2021, 08:13 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Do you have a meter or 12VDC test light? Good basic diagnostic tools for electrical troubleshooting.'

Test light, hook clamp to a good ground. Touch probe to one side of relay big cable coming from battery. It should light up. Now try opposite terminal that supplies power to trailer. It will light up with relay working. You can do same to the incoming power that turns relay on and off. One side I bet is just grounded, other side gets power from switch to energize relay.

Pic of relay might help diagnosis.

Gary
.

I have a multimeter and put the positive on one side of the relay, the other to ground, and got nothing on either side. I put the positive on the battery line to a big fuse and got a reading, but nothing on the other side. I am having difficulty posting photo from my iPad, will try anyway.
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Old 05-04-2021, 08:39 AM   #8
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.

I put the positive on the battery line to a big fuse and got a reading, but nothing on the other side.
Fuse kaput?

Start at incoming power and trace where you have 12V and where it stops.

Find a good ground and just leave the meter connected to it, then start tracing.

And if the fuse is open, what caused the overload and blew the fuse?
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Old 05-04-2021, 09:31 AM   #9
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Fuse kaput?

Start at incoming power and trace where you have 12V and where it stops.

Find a good ground and just leave the meter connected to it, then start tracing.

And if the fuse is open, what caused the overload and blew the fuse?
I double checked and got a reading on both sides of the fuse, so I guess the fuse is fine. I traced power from the battery and found where it stopped. In photo below, the pink cable on the left side of the terminal block is where the power stops. The red cable next to it runs to the relay, and has no power.
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Old 05-04-2021, 10:05 AM   #10
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Rage,

Time to pull out your owners manual and look at page 8-17 for the 12V wiring diagram. Look at the 6 ga RED line coming off of the battery's to the positive distribution are in your pic. See CB1 looks like that is the main breaker for the trailer and each breaker gets its power from that copper bar.

Keep the diagnostics coming. Keep in mind, this is sofa diagnostics and not hands on.

Gary
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Old 05-04-2021, 10:23 AM   #11
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Rage,

Time to pull out your owners manual and look at page 8-17 for the 12V wiring diagram. Look at the 6 ga RED line coming off of the battery's to the positive distribution are in your pic. See CB1 looks like that is the main breaker for the trailer and each breaker gets its power from that copper bar.

Keep the diagnostics coming. Keep in mind, this is sofa diagnostics and not hands on.

Gary
I did look at the diagram and confirm it is wired as shown. There is a “shortstop” cube inside the circuit board and the red line from the battery is very hot to the touch. I wonder if the CB strip is bad?
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Old 05-04-2021, 10:48 AM   #12
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Can you mark up your pic or make sketch?

Heat is a concern. Usually an indication of resistance in a circuit connection if in a distribution rather than power consumption area.
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Old 05-04-2021, 11:18 AM   #13
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I seem to recall those cube breakers self reset. Given that it is hot I would disconnect your positive cable at the battery. Give things a chance to cool down before reconnecting the positive at the battery.

Ensure you place the disconnected cable such that keeps it clear of other battery terminals.
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Old 05-04-2021, 11:21 AM   #14
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Thanks for the feedback. I think the problem is the terminal strip needs replacement. Should be available from electrical supply outlets if I can get a number off the strip. For now, I think I should disconnect the hot terminal. It’s getting to where I need to start traveling to the civilized world to go further.
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Old 05-04-2021, 03:59 PM   #15
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No battery power update

I found a local RV repair shop and replaced the overheating circuit breaker, put it back together and now hear a clicking on the circuit breaker, I think resetting itself. Still no battery power to the trailer. Must have a short somewhere.
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Old 05-04-2021, 04:24 PM   #16
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Possible technique, disconnect a circuit or all circuits and see it that solves the overload. After disconnected then connect one at a time and find the overloaded circuit and then diagnosis that individual circuit.

Your 12V wiring diagram will be a big help.
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Old 05-05-2021, 12:07 PM   #17
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Possible technique, disconnect a circuit or all circuits and see it that solves the overload. After disconnected then connect one at a time and find the overloaded circuit and then diagnosis that individual circuit.

Your 12V wiring diagram will be a big help.
The two 30 amp fuses in the main breaker panel were both failed, so I replaced them , and the new ones failed when I connected to shore power.

I’m not sure what circuit to disconnect. None are working. Where do I disconnect? How do I determine what is causing the 30 amp fuses to fail?
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Old 05-05-2021, 02:05 PM   #18
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Was any of this the result of any modifications, system failures or repairs prior to this issue?

You replaced two fuses, exactly which circuits were these fuses protecting?

If you can relate it to your owners manual wiring diagram I think that might help a lot too.
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Old 05-06-2021, 12:29 PM   #19
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More mystery

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Was any of this the result of any modifications, system failures or repairs prior to this issue?

You replaced two fuses, exactly which circuits were these fuses protecting?

If you can relate it to your owners manual wiring diagram I think that might help a lot too.
No modifications or repairs... We decided to head home and stopped along the way a a campground and everything was working. Hooked up 20 amp shore power and thought the problem was solved. Thought something vibrated loose, but overnight the lights dimmed, the refrigerator went dark, but we still had weak power. The 30 amp fuses are attached to the “power center with 55 amp converter” shown on lower left. The battery showed 9.3 volts on the trailer display.
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Old 05-06-2021, 01:17 PM   #20
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Rage51,

I tried to find a manual on the 7355, no luck. It's a convertor and distribution center.

Are the 30A fuses supplying power from the convertor to the batteries?

Couple ideas, pull the batteries, what is the age of the batteries, check water level and put them on an ordinary battery charger. Overnight or so. See if you can get them tested or check the voltage a while after charging. A hydrometer can be a good tool to check battery health too. I'm also wondering if there is a way to disconnect the convertor from AC power and just hook up a good 30A or so battery charger for a test run.

I wonder if your convertor and/or batteries are done.

Electrical armchair diagnostics has it's limits, proceed at your discretion and comfort level.

Gary
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