Not sure if I have seen anyone else do this, but as my 3 year warranty is expired, experimenting has begun. I hate trying to see in dark areas to see if I left something behind. I have been sitting on these parts for almost two years with the camper... just waiting... And my photos all have the top on the left side due to cell phone/computer hand-off.
I added a
12v led surface mount light and a "door switch" to the inside of each of the nightstands with a security camera extension cable cut in half to make a quick dis/connect if ever needed. The one end of the power cord is striped and tied into the LED light/switch and the other end is tied into the basement light for power on the awning side at the head of the bed. That way, these minimal draw LED lights are on a fused
12v circuit that would probably never be stressed.
I found on the forum "how to remove my nightstand" and took a few photos as I did my changes as photos help me more. As the other post said, pop off the door to the nightstand, remove the three screws behind the door as seen in my first photo. The fourth screw is at the back corner near the mattress in the second photo.
With the nightstand removed, I flipped it upside down to work on it. The third photo is with the LED light installed inside the nightstand, with the door switch (black) mounted and wired in-line on the positive lead. Forth photo is still with the unit upside down, and a clear shot of the switch from the outside looking through the doorway. The fifth photo shows the wire routed through a hole or two I drilled hidden out of sight, and a stress loop added with a coax staple on the power cord (white piece near the screw hole at the back).
Sorry, no photos of the other end of the power cords being stuffed through the gap between the bed support and the wall. The cord was thin enough to just fit through, and I spliced into the power on the light in the front storage area. From there, the extra was just tucked behind the board the light was mounted on, back by the DC wiring box and whatnot.
The screws seen in the sixth photo are from the night stand. There are three different lengths - the longest one goes back in the top hole, medium in the middle, short in the bottom and the second short one goes at the back corner to re-secure the nightstand. Watch out as one of the four screws on my second night stand was not a Philips, but a square drive.
Photo seven has the screws in but not secured, but also shows the door switch (black thing) at the top left corner that the door will cover, and press the button to turn off when the door is closed. Photo 8 shows the door back on with the new light on, and photo 9 shows it without my camera flash.
The supplies outside of a few screws, a chunk of wire or two to extend with the switches, some wire butt-splices, the coax staple, and upgrading from a two socket to a three socket Wago 221 wire nut inside the storage light when tapping in for power are:
LED lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089PR7MVY/
Power extension cords to be cut in half (not exactly half, but long enough for a 4-6" lead being exposed outside the nightstand, the rest gets tied into the power, these were long enough with about a foot of extra with how it fit in my 27FB):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSTDZ7C/
Door switches (one did not work as a switch of the four and a second did not have good threads on the wire retention nut):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YTC8VYH/
Hope someone else finds a bit of this useful,
Squeegee
Timely info on nightstand removal....
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