Need Help: Where To Begin

[GAStreamin]

Cleaned out the ole AS tonight, shop vacuumed everything. Got everything out like tools and debris, because welder is coming tomorrow. I also want to get subfloor out and replace. Please give me your best ideas and instructions on how to do this with the shell on (sorry not doing shell off this time, so don't go there or I'll have to give my long spill on why I am doing a shell on this time). I also need pointers on reinsulating around the frame. Thanks!!!

[RM66caravel]

Hey I have seen several threads by the pros (in my opinion) and they have removed the flooring from the entire trailer with the shell on! Go to the search and enter restoration thread. I have been at the frustration point this week with hidden rivets and poor workmanship and will be so glad when I am done with this part. Worst part was 4 spinners in a row then remove a trim piece to uncover a line if steel rivets ?!? Remove those to find corrosion on 2 panels so just been frustrated will finish this part soon! Have not actually stopped for the picture part yet cuz count down to twins and work slow down is ticking away. Need to get through the haz mat part before babies arrive you are putting foam insulation boards inside the belly pan right? The really fun part is comming real soon (rebuild).

[RM66caravel]

Yes I am still gonna get that overlander to redo and he current owner is prepping it for me with open windows flat tires and no maintenance what so ever (price reducing practice) aka making it worthless. I have done cars, trucks and houses and mobile homes and they all have frustration
Points unless you are building from scratch.

[perryg114]

If you are doing a shell on you will need to replace the floor in sections because something has got to hold the shell on. The frame members (front to back channels) are going to be the best splice point because you have a wide support area so each piece has an attachment point. Then splice on the cross members going left to right. If I remember right the cross members are not very wide and they used a single elevator bolt between the two panels (which pushes them apart). A much better way to make a splice is to have enough ledge for each sheet of plywood to rest on. Airstream used these to draw the two pieces of plywood together and then put elevator bolts between to hold the floor to the crossmembers.

corrugated fasteners - Yahoo! Image Search Results


Perry

[GAStreamin]

Originally Posted by perryg114

If you are doing a shell on you will need to replace the floor in sections because something has got to hold the shell on. The frame members (front to back channels) are going to be the best splice point because you have a wide support area so each piece has an attachment point. Then splice on the cross members going left to right. If I remember right the cross members are not very wide and they used a single elevator bolt between the two panels (which pushes them apart). A much better way to make a splice is to have enough ledge for each sheet of plywood to rest on. Airstream used these to draw the two pieces of plywood together and then put elevator bolts between to hold the floor to the crossmembers.

corrugated fasteners - Yahoo! Image Search Results

Perry

Excellent!!!! Exactly what I need to know!

[GAStreamin]

Originally Posted by RM66caravel

Yes I am still gonna get that overlander to redo and he current owner is prepping it for me with open windows flat tires and no maintenance what so ever (price reducing practice) aka making it worthless. I have done cars, trucks and houses and mobile homes and they all have frustration
Points unless you are building from scratch.

Awesome! You got in touch with them? We have redone houses, but never a car. I told my husband this is like redoing a boat, house, car, and plane in one. Sometimes you have to think like a car, sometimes a plane, sometimes a boat or house. That is what makes it so fun!

[GAStreamin]

Originally Posted by RM66caravel

Hey I have seen several threads by the pros (in my opinion) and they have removed the flooring from the entire trailer with the shell on! Go to the search and enter restoration thread. I have been at the frustration point this week with hidden rivets and poor workmanship and will be so glad when I am done with this part. Worst part was 4 spinners in a row then remove a trim piece to uncover a line if steel rivets ?!? Remove those to find corrosion on 2 panels so just been frustrated will finish this part soon! Have not actually stopped for the picture part yet cuz count down to twins and work slow down is ticking away. Need to get through the haz mat part before babies arrive you are putting foam insulation boards inside the belly pan right? The really fun part is comming real soon (rebuild).

I am absolutely using foam insulation inside the bellypan, luckily we sell that so I can just get that from work. I know what you mean about poor workmanship. It has made me want to do more and more of this project myself. Hang on, frustrating part over soon. It is hard to work and take pics huh? Try. You will be glad you did!

[RM66caravel]

How much of the inner skin are you taking down? Found a rather interesting stiffener mounted to inner ribs. Will take a pic and post it soon.

[RM66caravel]

The mods or updates additions ie ac have the largest points of frustration. If they had just taken the time to do it right then all would be good. never work angry I broke 3 new drill bits and 1 dull used up drill bit. but many rivets bit the dust also. I have made some progress slow it may be but some is better than none.

[GAStreamin]

Originally Posted by RM66caravel

How much of the inner skin are you taking down? Found a rather interesting stiffener mounted to inner ribs. Will take a pic and post it soon.

I am taking them all down to reinsulate and then put some back up. What stiffener did you find?

[GAStreamin]

Originally Posted by RM66caravel

The mods or updates additions ie ac have the largest points of frustration. If they had just taken the time to do it right then all would be good. never work angry I broke 3 new drill bits and 1 dull used up drill bit. but many rivets bit the dust also. I have made some progress slow it may be but some is better than none.

I have read they can be frustrating to take out. Got out old furnace yesterday.

[cwf]

Fresh drills are a joy to use.

I have used my Dremel tool to grind close or cut head off. Then easy punch out.

[Silverflames]

A note in the inside skins. Folks say if the have buck rivets holding them in place to leave them, and just roll them up the best you can.

[RM66caravel]

Stiffners are in the form of two aluminum scrap pieces pop riveted (4 rivets) to the peak of the roof looks as to support the weight of an ac towards the center of the trailer. Are you leaving the aluminum wiring in? I am replacing ours with copper and since I am updating/replacing the univolt with a charger regulator converter. Okay time to get it done! You are doing great keep it up and don't get frustrated!

[lonewolf1977]

Originally Posted by Silverflames

A note in the inside skins. Folks say if the have buck rivets holding them in place to leave them, and just roll them up the best you can.

And by rolling them up, you mean just roll them up like a set of blinds and secure them while you work on insulation & wiring and such??? I'm trying to picture if this is what you mean by that statement.

[RM66caravel]

Posted pic on the caravel site! So it's all good for now!

[Silverflames]

Originally Posted by lonewolf1977

And by rolling them up, you mean just roll them up like a set of blinds and secure them while you work on insulation & wiring and such??? I'm trying to picture if this is what you mean by that statement.

While listening to a back episode of the VAP Collin Hyde was talking about this. From what he described in some AS part of the roof section is buck riveted into place. So to get it out of the way you roll the side up and tie it off. His point pretty much was, if you see buck rivets on the inside skin, leave them alone.

[RM66caravel]

New tool today!!! Love new tools gotta a 5gal shop vac from Wally world! Now I can clean up my mess! Bracing the shell next, and removing it this week (I hope)

[GAStreamin]

Originally Posted by RM66caravel

New tool today!!! Love new tools gotta a 5gal shop vac from Wally world! Now I can clean up my mess! Bracing the shell next, and removing it this week (I hope)

Oh how fun! Can't wait to see what you do next week. I am taking a break next week and headed out on a mommy daughter trip. I took down the rest of walls, ceiling, and insulation. In the morning, along with helpers, I plan to finish removing half of the subfloor. Then I can let welder come in and work of frame while I take brake, then I will do the other half when I get back. Slowly but surely!

[Becky B.]

Originally Posted by Silverflames

While listening to a back episode of the VAP Collin Hyde was talking about this. From what he described in some AS part of the roof section is buck riveted into place. So to get it out of the way you roll the side up and tie it off. His point pretty much was, if you see buck rivets on the inside skin, leave them alone.

I'm pretty sure that the aluminum sides can't be rolled up like blinds. Colin was talking about the endcaps. They are buck riveted in the older AS's and are in one piece unless one removes all the buck rivets. The endcaps can be removed by drilling out the pop rivets along the outer edges & leaving the buck rivets in place. The entire endcap can be removed through the door. This is what my interior endcap looked like when removed in one piece (in a 1964 Bambi II)
I'm pretty sure he was speaking of rolling them up after removing them from the wall so they can be removed out the door or window. A 1978 trailer doesn't have aluminum endcaps, so the point here is mute anyhow :-)