Need carb kit for old Onan generator

[Hummer]

Understand Onan made a RV generator called a AJ 205 in the 60s/70s.

Anyone know where to get a carb or a carb kit? The carb part number is 146-0191 and the rebuild kit number is 146-0149.

Just picked it up today and it runs but would like to have a kit for it just in case.

[Protagonist]

Cummins/Onan is still in business. If anyone has a carb kit for a generator that old, it would be the manufacturer. The Cummins/Onan dealers in your area are Cummins Atlantic, with locations in Spartanburg, Columbia, Myrtle Beach, and Charleston.

In fact, I'd recommend against buying a kit from anyone else. No telling how old the kit would be, and when it comes to gaskets and seals, age is your enemy. You want your kit to be the newest you can possibly get.

[perryg114]

Try Ebay as well.

Perry

[Hummer]

Talked to folks in Columbia, Onan dumped the obsolete small parts a while back. No luck on ebay. Plenty of carbs for Tecumseh etc.

It has a Carter Mod N flange number is 2463S

I pulled it down today and float was full of gas, had two pin holes in it. Fixed them with Marinetex which should hold for a while. Gas tank had very small hole as well and laid the Marinetex to that as well.

Checked with parts stores they don't list a Carter Mod N.

I also found out Onan used like four carbs on the 205AJ. Letting the Marinetex cure up over night and will see how it does in the morning.

[perryg114]

Is it a brass float or plastic?

Perry

[Hummer]

neither, galvanized steel no less.

I pulled carb down and apparently a PO put ethenol in it as on the bottom of the float on the lowest side when pivoted down was a corrosion line and of course full of fuel.

Found two pin holes in it. Patched them them with Marinetex and put it back together and had it running about 30 minutes yesterday putting out 1810 watts and 122V. With another 300w added it dropped to 110 V.

This morning went out to crank it and gas shot out overflow. Pulled it down and float had sunk. I missed one hole and it filled back up with gas. I opened it a bit to get gas out and now have it sitting up again with another coat of Marinetex in that area.

I found a carb kit in Washington state and it is inbound. they did not have a float for it.

Unit weighs 140 lbs ! ! ! ! ! !
No smoke when it was running after I adjusted carb and governor controls.

I ordered a 20 amp breaker for a Devilbliss generator that should go right on it and keep it from getting overloaded. I know one guy who might be using it that DKS about such and would just keep plugging stuff in so I have to make it idiot proof

Unit was made March of 1965. From my research was a generator only carb.

[perryg114]

Maybe a propane conversion kit would solve your problems.

Perry

[Hummer]

Yes that is a possibility. Would make it harder if I loaned it out in a ice storm for folks to keep it going.

I have a 7.5KW JB and a 250 gal tank for the house here.

Everyone was in such problems in ice storm last winter and most folks don't have a clue of what to do when the power goes out.

Was just getting a few extra small ones so neighbors could keep fridge and freezers from losing their food stock.

I patched the hole I missed yesterday will crank it off today (I hope) I was very pleased to see there was no deterrioration of the Marinetex with the bowl submerged in gas and did not figure there would be.

I carry Marinetex Gray in AS as it is good for so many things.

[perryg114]

JB Weld is good stuff as well. Our buddies at POR15 make a gas tank sealant that might work.

Perry

[Hummer]

Not familiar with POR 15? (Edit: just did a search and found the website. Interesting for sure. I was surprised the tank on the unit appears nice inside looking it over with a bore scope. From what I am reading it is for steel tanks???

I also used Marinetex on the plastic tank on a Devilbliss 5250 generator I have and yesterday I tipped it forward and let the fuel get above the leak area and no leak was detected. I am hoping it will hold to the plastic and before applying it I used a wafer cutter on my solding gun and ran it down the crack widening it which I hope cleaned at the same time and forced the Marinetex into the crack as well as both sides and ends after roughening the surface with abrasive sanding belt material. I noted when I put the tank back on that the holes in the frame did not align with the relieved areas on the tank as the supplied washers when torqued down put it in a bind so I left off the washers as the bolt heads were sufficient to secure the tank.

The sardine can I mixed the Marinetex on also has had JB weld mixed on it (different spot) and epoxy cement as well so I cut it up and put it in a jar and filled it with non ethenol gas and taped a label on it as to contents and date and sat it on a shelf in my shop to look at over the coming months/years.

I ran her about 40 minutes yesterday and so far I can only get about 2100 watts out and keep it at 108/109 after careful adjustment of fuel mixture screw and linkage to make sure it is wide open. I noted the multimeter reacted quickly as I slowly turned the mixture screw and she knows exactly what she wants as just moving the screw the width of the slot will indicate a reduction in voltage quickly.

I was going to change the 30SAE in it as it needs it and replace with 10W40 Mobil 1 synthetic but someone got over energetic putting in the pipe plug on the laste change and my open end wrench won't budge it. My 1/2" square sockets go down to 7/16" and I need a 3/8 so looking at a swuare set on ebay now that is 3/8" drive. Sears store closed here about two months back so nearest is 50 miles in two directions.

I read the Lube Order for my MEP017A and it calls for 15W40 so I laid in another gal of 10W40 Mobil 1 and noted on the jug it is designed for engines that run in high heat and it is already known for low temps as well so right now seems appropriate.

The little Onan sure is a heavy piece at 140 lbs but it tends to give a steady reading under steady loads.

The 20 Amp breaker arrived in mail yesterday so will wire it in circuit and not be concerned about burning her up with a overload. Both the factory recepticals have now been replaced, one before I got it and I replaced the other with a 20AMP.