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04-20-2015, 06:31 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 31
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Need a new frame in VA
Hey if you saw my post, my frame was totally shot and has since been pulled out and cut up for scrap. I need to have a new one fabricated, I'm in Eastern VA. I know a few welders but was just thinking if anyone knows of someone within a few hundred miles that has some experience with Airstream frames it might be worth a shot. Thanks! Tom
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04-20-2015, 06:37 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
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If I was making a new frame I would have it made from aluminum and add a composite floor while I was at it.
__________________
MICHAEL
Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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04-20-2015, 07:01 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
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Aluminum frames have their own issues - cracking and bending. Only an Aluminum expert -probably with airframes- should even attempt one. Several years ago Uwe (OO-VAY) of Area 63 Productions made a stainless steel frame for his Argosy, so perhaps you can find the thread for that.
If you can get the service manual .pdfs for a frame any competent welder should be able to make one - also if you did have the original one, someone could easily copy it. There's no reason you couldn't beef up the frame though - going with boxed channels instead of "C" and using something stiffer than mild steel. There is a company on Cleveland street called Coe (Superior Trailer) that does that kind of work. Some people swear by them, others at them.
You really don't need an Airstream specialist to do this work. There are a slew of trailer companies out on S. Military Highway too. Shop around - we've got a lot of local options - but get the .pdf's first.
I too would go with a floor material other than plywood - something made for the yachting industry. Again this area has a lot of good outlets.
Good luck fixing it up.
Paula
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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04-20-2015, 07:11 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
Lin
, Ne
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,430
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Now is the time to build a proper frame, do your homework.
__________________
The higher your expectations the fewer your options.
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04-20-2015, 08:34 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 31
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Paula, I've bought a couple trailers from Superior so I'll start by calling them. We also have Portsmouth Trailer Supply over here so I might call them too they do a lot of repair work. Thanks for the advice. Tom
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04-20-2015, 09:52 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2002 25' Safari
1977 20' Argosy 20
northern valley
, new jersey
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 532
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within your few hundred mile scope, you'll find Frank Yensan in Baltimore, MD.
much further up the road you'll find Colin Hyde in Plattsburgh, NY.
each are quite capable. I'd try Frank, first.
__________________
Joseph & Gabrielle
Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication - Leonardo da Vinci.
WBCCI 2087 - AIR 3144 - TAC-NJ2
https://defendwally.org/
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04-20-2015, 10:45 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
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You can also try Hibbards iron works Address: 514 Aberdeen Rd, Hampton, VA 23661
Phone 757) 826-5611
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04-20-2015, 11:14 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2
within your few hundred mile scope, you'll find Frank Yensan in Baltimore, MD.
much further up the road you'll find Colin Hyde in Plattsburgh, NY.
each are quite capable. I'd try Frank, first.
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Well DUH - Didn't think about Frank - which is stupid since I'll be pulling my new to me Avion onto his lot next Monday or Tuesday. He's well respected, but we also have many fine welders around here.
I'm sure Frank could get you new axles loaded with brakes and install them, then you could tow it home as long as you had good temporary running lights (and perhaps a bumper of some sort.) I would NOT relish towing it down I-95, but you can always take 301. Only the horrible high bridge gives you a "nearer to thee my God moment or two"
Portsmouth Trailer is good too.
You know we have more Tidewater members than I realized - we should have a non-rally rally some day.
Paula
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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04-20-2015, 02:05 PM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2
within your few hundred mile scope, you'll find Frank Yensan in Baltimore, MD.
much further up the road you'll find Colin Hyde in Plattsburgh, NY.
each are quite capable. I'd try Frank, first.
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Do you know how I can get in touch with Frank? Thanks!
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04-20-2015, 02:36 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1999 28' Excella
Frederick
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 739
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i'd check with Frank Yensan at Franks Trailer Works in Baltimore. He could at least give you some good advice.
__________________
1999 28' Safari
2012 F150 Platinum Max Tow 7650 GVWR 3.73 Elec. Locking Diff.(Prev 2003 Dmax).
Honda EU2000i, Equalizer Hitch
AM Solar Panels 150W - 2 Trojan T 105 6V Batteries
KC3MAP
On internet forums, please research and separate the wheat from the chaff (including mine!)
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04-20-2015, 03:15 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
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Aluminum alloys have come a long way. Many other mainstream travel trailer and large boat trailers are made from aluminum. Can't say I have ever heard of any recent failures due to the aluminum construction. Worth looking at in my opinion.
__________________
MICHAEL
Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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04-20-2015, 03:21 PM
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#12
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF
If I was making a new frame I would have it made from aluminum and add a composite floor while I was at it.
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Tell me more about this composite floor material....links? Sorry to hijack your thread, Tom!
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04-20-2015, 04:03 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericpeltier
Tell me more about this composite floor material....links? Sorry to hijack your thread, Tom!
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Google is your friend. I could not even scratch the surface on the available information.
__________________
MICHAEL
Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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04-20-2015, 04:12 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
Vintage Kin Owner
1977 31' Excella 500
Berkeley Springs
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,637
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Build a Better One
I agree with R Carl. I would not duplicate the original frame. I would build a better one. I designed one for a 31 footer a few years ago that I could probably find and send to you if you want.
In your case, I'd consider a 6" deep frame made from a decent I-beam section. Use 50ksi steel. I was going to use an 8" section on my 31. The extra depth makes a huge difference in strength. No more sag, and no more separation.
You could also change the design (like I did) to where the shell does not sit on the floor. I had a 1/8" thick by 6" wide plate that went all around the perimeter. The U-channel bolted to that and the shell to the channel. My new floor sat completely inside the shell.
In the end, my new frame that was eight times stronger than the original added less than 200lbs overall to the weight of the trailer. Less than corian countertops....
As for aluminum, it has a much lower fatigue life than steel. Stress reversal cycles get it, but it depends on the percentage of yield stress you go to before reversing. So in English, an aluminum frame can work just fine, you just need to make it beefy enough that it never sees a high percentage of it's maximum strength used when you hit a bump. Being that it weighs 1/3 what steel does, you could make it twice as thick and still be lighter. If you made it 1:1 the same as steel, it'd fall apart on you pretty quickly. But if you built it right, it'd work fine. That being said, I'd stick to regular carbon steel. Get it all welded up and get the whole thing powder coated or hot dip galvanized. It'll last longer than you with a little care.
Best of luck with your project. You really do have the opportunity to build a better mousetrap.
__________________
- Jim
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04-20-2015, 06:06 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
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Composite Floors - Forum Google Search
coosa board
advantech board
These are two of the more recent ones mentioned on the forum
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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04-21-2015, 11:24 AM
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#16
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Superior
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again
coosa board
advantech board
These are two of the more recent ones mentioned on the forum
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Wow, the Coosa board is expensive!
Eric
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04-22-2015, 05:56 AM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 31
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Looked at the Coosa board, that is pretty sweet. It might be worth it even at the $109 a sheet.
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04-22-2015, 09:13 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
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If properly installed and sealed at the edges, regular plywood can last 40 years or more. Poor initial construction and lack of maintenance over time will cause it to rot along with the frame. Just dont use any pressure treated stuff and it should be good for the lenght of time you will own it. YMMV.
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04-22-2015, 09:23 AM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1955 22' Safari
Laredo
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,342
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$$$
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom p
Looked at the Coosa board, that is pretty sweet. It might be worth it even at the $109 a sheet.
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That price is for 1/3 sheet (32" x 48"). Full sheet is over $300. Over $1000 for even a small AS floor.
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04-22-2015, 12:14 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
1974 27' Overlander
Portsmouth
, Virginia
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bambitex
that price is for 1/3 sheet (32" x 48"). Full sheet is over $300. Over $1000 for even a small as floor.
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ouch!
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