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Old 01-05-2015, 10:46 AM   #21
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2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere , South Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
If the Baker Super Jack is still available but it directly from them. Most of the newer jacks are Chinese junk.
http://www.barkermfg.com/superjack.jpg

Howie,

Have you ever tried to replace the switch on a Barker ? Mission unnecessarily difficult. I did it one time successfully but no room for servicing. How about if the power head fails? You have to remove it to do a manual operation. Synchronize the head, another plus while reinstalling. Don't forget the travel limiting micro switches. I worked on a failed power head for Matt and found broken solder joints, amateur soldering and the switch was shot too.

I bought a Husky, ball screw drive, if you need manual operation, remove a cap for access. I have no idea about working on it cause it's never needed anything. That ball screw is a big plus. Quiet operation too.
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Old 01-05-2015, 11:19 AM   #22
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2008 25' Classic
Full Time , Texas
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I had to replace my Barker on my 2008 Classic 25fb because of something I did to damage it. I was concerned other jacks wouldn't clear the propane tank so I found the exact same jack from Vintage Trailer Supply. It ships directly from Barker. When it arrived it made a horrible noise when retracting with weight in on spot. I had it replaced by Barker but I had to pay shipping to send it back to them. Vintage just acts as the sales. The nice thing about the Barker is one wire to connect since the ground is through the frame when its bolted on.

Airstream Power Jack

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Old 01-05-2015, 06:51 PM   #23
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2007 30' Classic S/O
Somewhere , South Carolina
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FWIW:

I checked who made the electric motor on the Barker that I tried to fix.

CIM
GS801-002
"GLOBAL SOURCINGINC"
12VDC 070405

Not my typo in sourcing inc.

The unit I tried to fix:
The insulation on the power wires to the motor was crushed because at assembly they crossed the wires between the motor and housing crushing them. If you could have seen the way they have to solder two wires to one switch terminal. Ugly.
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Old 01-09-2015, 05:55 PM   #24
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1996 34' Limited
1976 31' Sovereign
1983 31' Excella
Greeneville , Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SARGE/AF View Post
I replaced mine with a Husky from Camping World, 4500 lb, with a extendable foot, and it also came with a remote (not what I bought it for, was on sale and extendable foot).. it has performed flawlessly and I am extremely pleased with it. The remote I did find that it was extremely handy in hooking up as I no longer have to jump in and out of the truck when hooking up if I don't get the tongue up high enough or once I am under it I can let it down onto the hitch while holding the break on the truck to keep it from rolling that little bit that puts you just not far enough or too far under, and I know everyone has experienced that problem.
By the way I have a 35 ft AS and a F250 and this lift picks up the rear end without no problem to put my bars on.
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:01 PM   #25
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1996 34' Limited
1976 31' Sovereign
1983 31' Excella
Greeneville , Tennessee
Join Date: May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Re-Pete View Post
I have the Reese Dual Cam Hitch set up which requires lifting the tongue after it's connected to the trailer ball. So, I'm lifting the back end of 2500 Dodge Ram truck as well to finish hooking up the cams. My main concern is having enough lift power. I never considered speed, I guess because my current lift seems fairly quick.

What is the expected life of a power lift? We go on some pretty long trips every year, moving on average once a week, so, my lift gets a lot of use. Right now the one I have, no idea what brand it is, sounds like it's grinding gravel when I use it and like I've said it's loose where it's mounted at the top of the "pole".

Both the Husky and the Super Jack seem adequate. Anything else to add?
Only that I have a 2012 F250 and my husky picks it up with no problem, I even have the extendable leg for when I am caught in those places where pavement is uneven.
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