Looking at 1970 Land Yacht Need Help

[F250PUP]

I have been a "Lurker" for several months, and I am finally ready to take the plunge. iam looking at 1970 Land Yacht on Saturday. What sort of things should I be looking for to insure my renovation doesnt become a complete rebuild. While I am pretty handy, I dont want to get into the frame and shell.

I plan on redoing the cabinets and new flooring etc.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by F250PUP

I have been a "Lurker" for several months, and I am finally ready to take the plunge. iam looking at 1970 Land Yacht on Saturday. What sort of things should I be looking for to insure my renovation doesnt become a complete rebuild. While I am pretty handy, I dont want to get into the frame and shell.

I plan on redoing the cabinets and new flooring etc.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

Check the trailer for rear end separation, bad axles, tires, rusty wheels, bad exterior gaskets, missing rivets especially below the front window, body damage, windows that are plastic, warped entrance door, sticky interior walls, and general neglect and/or abuse.

Andy

[F250PUP]

Thanks I know it need tires. Not sure I follow rear end separation? Could you explain?

[funkill]

If you've been lurking for several months, you should already know the typical things that the trailer could be *inflicted* with - axles, floor rot, rear-end sag, leaks, window fog, etc.... You'll want to make sure these are in order before embarking on the cabinets/flooring. You don't want a leak (from old gaskets and/or failing seals) or busting rivets (from worn axles) to ruin all the work you put forth!

After reading posts here for about a year, I haven't noticed anything causing a shell off renovation except major flooring problems. Though there are other issues that are a major PITA - like repairing rear-end sag. Axles are almost a given for a 70's trailer and it does take some effort. The other things like replacing gaskets, updating plumbing, updating umbilical, replacing Univolt, etc take a little time and cash but aren't otherwise too taxing for a handy-person! And you can finish the cosmetic updates like curtains & upholstry as needed - like your intentions with the cabinets and flooring.

Good luck and post some pics of your *find* if you move forward with the purchase!

Laura

[bedfords]

Check for floor rot around the exterior walls and bathroom/kitchen area. Look for owner applied caulk-or other signs of leaks. Check for Olympic rivets on the outside. Verify all systems work don't take owners word for it, they may not know it is broken. Share pictures..

[funkill]

Originally Posted by F250PUP

Thanks I know it need tires. Not sure I follow rear end separation? Could you explain?

Two person job to diagnose: one person standing on bumper and able to jump up-n-down on bumper. Second person standing nearby watching to see if any gap between top of bumper and bottom of shell opens up. There should not be any substantial gap between the two.

Do a quick google search (using link at top of the forum) on rear end sag and you'll find lots of info! Actually, search for things like buying vintage trailer, tips for buying trailer, etc and you'll find that questions similar to yours answered. There's lots of info on this forum but you have to search for it!

Laura

[funkill]

Originally Posted by bedfords

Check for floor rot around the exterior walls and bathroom/kitchen area. Look for owner applied caulk-or other signs of leaks. Check for Olympic rivets on the outside. Verify all systems work don't take owners word for it, they may not know it is broken. Share pictures..

Best advice - owners are not always aware of the problems. They aren't necessarily trying to be deceptive - but they just don't know what is needed. My trailers prior owner had NO idea that the axles were shot. I guess he thought the broken, interior rivets and hole in the ceiling at the divider were just coincidence. But he really didn't know the cause and I found out after my purchase! I didn't do my homework either! I didn't know a thing about the Univolt (or why you want one -or some type of converter/charger) - and neither did the prior owner. Being on shore power 24/7 doesn't alert you to why it is of value I guess. So, his belief that all was good with the trailer was incorrect after all....

Do your homework and know what to expect! Knowledge is the deal.

Laura

[F250PUP]

Wow I have read alot today about rear separation or rear sag (as it was called in on topic).

As I read today I want to confirm some of what I read:
1) Rear Separation: Test is to observe someone jumping on bumber and watch for separation. Preventative is Wheel, Axel and Hub balancing (right?)
2) Axel replacement: No sure what to test or what to look for. Axel replacement is fix.

I am not sure of the history of this trailer and will post pictures once I get them.

Also the rear separation seems to happen more on rear bathroom (which this is) seems to be caused by vibration and unbalanced rear load, possible from holding tanks. Would traveling with empty tanks help? Just a thought from an uneducated possible new owner.......

[Aage]

Unless they have been replaced, it's a fair bet that all the major appliances are finished, or very nearly.

By that I mean the furnace (~$600), the refer (~$1,000), and the water heater (~$500). The AC (if it has it) is easily checked, and may or may not be done.

[F250PUP]

Yea from what I have gathered oven is broke, no big deal replace with microwave. It doesn't have a frig, could I not use a "college" size refrig combo with an inverter of some sorts. Furnance I planned on using in summer months, but during cold weather why not use a plug in heater.

AC can be replaced, planned on that

I want to use as soon as possible for summer travel. Would what i suggested work as far as appliance's go?

[funkill]

Originally Posted by F250PUP

Wow I have read alot today about rear separation or rear sag (as it was called in on topic).

As I read today I want to confirm some of what I read:
1) Rear Separation: Test is to observe someone jumping on bumber and watch for separation. Preventative is Wheel, Axel and Hub balancing (right?)
2) Axel replacement: No sure what to test or what to look for. Axel replacement is fix.

I am not sure of the history of this trailer and will post pictures once I get them.

Also the rear separation seems to happen more on rear bathroom (which this is) seems to be caused by vibration and unbalanced rear load, possible from holding tanks. Would traveling with empty tanks help? Just a thought from an uneducated possible new owner.......

Bout half-way down the page in the following link is a graphic for what you need to look at to determine what kind of shape your axles are in...
Dura Torque Axle

I think a quick gauge (for a 70's trailer) can be made by assessing the distance between your wheel and the wheel well; you should have a few inches there. When I looked at mine, the wheel well was about an inch higher than my hubcaps. As Andy told me on my first picture post, my axles were "shot". And indeed, they were shot. After replacing them, my trailer sat a good 2.5" higher! Once you post a picture, someone will surely give you an assessment on your axle/clearance!

Also, I think the rear sag is/was partly due (in addition to your list) to poor design. I think I have the start of some sag - I see some caulk along the bumper and it is cracked - but I'm ignoring it for now. There's only so much you can deal with!

Laura

[F250PUP]

New issue with the proposed land yacht. the guy who has it stated I should repack the bearings before i tow it....and suggested i pick up with a flat bed. Thoughts or advice ?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by F250PUP

New issue with the proposed land yacht. the guy who has it stated I should repack the bearings before i tow it....and suggested i pick up with a flat bed. Thoughts or advice ?

Water can collect in the bearings, especially if the trailer has not moved for a long time.

Repacking the bearings and replacing the grease seals, would assure you of being able to tow the trailer ok.

Andy

[Aage]

Well, if you are planning on buying it, you better ask yourself if it's safe to drive home (tires, brakes lights, etc), and if not, a flat bed tow could be the way to go.

But you haven't even seen it yet, could this be the first trailer you're looking at? Take your time, and look at a bunch is my best advice. What seems to be a little work to be done can well be a LOT, in a trailer that old.

By looking at more, you'll have a better idea of the market, and who knows, you might just find a really nice one, where some of the work needed has already been done by a caring owner.

Just a thought, do as you please, of course...

[scf31]

LOOK , LOOK, LOOK ,,,, look all over,,,, I looked for 8 months and did a lot of traveling over several states, finally found "mine" in the next county . take your time ,

[F250PUP]

Well went and visited the airstream today. Here is what i found
1) Rear separation, had a friend stand/jump on bumper body and bumper traveled pretty close, maybe about 1/4 in lag....
2)trailer hasnt been licensed for road travle since 95. Its been sitting still for a long time
3)no visible leaks or water stains. Looked at every window.
4) Cut several holes in carpet, sub floor seemed strong no visible water damage
5) Saw day light in a couple of places around rear bathroom, basically pin holes in plastic seams.
6) NEEDS new tires and should have bearings packed (noted before).
7) Sofa needs to be pulled.
8) Checked underside no visible rust.
9) NO rivets were elongated
10) needs a new AC cover, furnace and probably a water heater.
11) Electrical worked, plugged in and all lights worked.
I have attached pictures, not sure how helpful. What should I be seeing.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by F250PUP

Well went and visited the airstream today. Here is what i found
1) Rear separation, had a friend stand/jump on bumper body and bumper traveled pretty close, maybe about 1/4 in lag....
2)trailer hasnt been licensed for road travle since 95. Its been sitting still for a long time
3)no visible leaks or water stains. Looked at every window.
4) Cut several holes in carpet, sub floor seemed strong no visible water damage
5) Saw day light in a couple of places around rear bathroom, basically pin holes in plastic seams.
6) NEEDS new tires and should have bearings packed (noted before).
7) Sofa needs to be pulled.
8) Checked underside no visible rust.
9) NO rivets were elongated
10) needs a new AC cover, furnace and probably a water heater.
11) Electrical worked, plugged in and all lights worked.
I have attached pictures, not sure how helpful. What should I be seeing.

Could have been worse.

Andy

[F250PUP]

Thanks Andy, i was hoping you would look. I offered the guy 1500 for it. i think at that price I get a great deal. If I replace the tires and bearings, which I think is the major issue. I can do the rest pretty easy. What do you think?

[RichHog]

Consider that you are going to invest a lot of your own cash on this trailer to do the modifications to make it your dream trailer. $1500 is a very good price if it has the potential once you start working it over. Make sure the outer skin is in good shape, that's the hard one to repair and replace the dents. You can easily spend another $5,000 on upgrades, flooring, fridge, oven, furnace etc.
But when all's said and done you'll have a trailer worth much more than you paid and will last a long time. Go look at a new $50,000 Airstream and you'll feel even better.

[68 TWind]

However much you think it will cost you to fix the problems you find initially, double that amount. First, all the little things you wind up buying to fix the big things really add up even if you have a lot of tools and are handy. Second, you will find all kinds of things that you will want to make better even if they are working when you buy it. Consider the cost when you come to terms with a price with the seller.