Lock on Rear Cargo Door "Frozen"

[ohiodeziner]

Hello - Newbie here... Looking for some insight. I have a 2019 16' Bambi. One of the locks on the rear cargo door will not unlock. I can see it engaged through the interior cargo doors, but it's stuck. Has anyone had this issue, or am I overlooking something? Seems so simple...

Thanks so much!!
Eric

[Belegedhel]

Welcome to the Forums!

Does it "jiggle" with the key in the lock? What I am getting at, is is the lock corroded so badly that the key won't turn, or is there some other mysterious reason why it won't turn. I am not sure why this would happen, but maybe a previous owner (if there was one) had to replace that one lock, and now it is keyed differently from all the rest...

Or...Maybe some would-be thief stuck a screwdriver in your keyhole and tried to force the lock, but only succeeded in wrecking it so it doesn't work anymore.

Anyway, if you can see the interior "latch" that keeps the door closed, it is usually held in place by a single nut. Reach in there with a ratchet extension, remove the nut, and the hatch will come open. You can then disassemble the lock and see what is going on.

good luck!

[ohiodeziner]

Thanks so much.. it does not jiggle or anything - i'm able to see the lock, so i'm going to attempt to access it thru the camper. Thanks so much for responding and the heads up on the info on the nut and removing that. I'll be trying that!

Best -
e

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Give the lock two or three good floodings with something like WD-40 before you go to crazy ....

Bob

[LAWBC]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Give the lock two or three good floodings with something like WD-40 before you go to crazy ....

Bob

And white lithium grease when you get it unfrozen on the lock latch and door contact point

[s1000pre]

I would avoid WD-40 or Lithium…both can collect debris. Get a bottle of graphite powder and spray into the lock. Insert the key in and out and repeat until it’s gliding with no resistance (Keep adding graphite as needed). Once it’s a fluid motion, start working on turning it. It should free up and work like a well oiled bearing. Every single one of my locks were seized up from the factory. I performed this on every lock.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Push in HARD on the door while turning the key. The weather strip hasn't squished enough yet and the locke arm won't move.

If in fact the cylinder is seized stuck or otherwise poofed a tiny squirt of MB into the key opening will usually do the trick, as a last resort, with a rag wrapped around red plastic squirter carefully absorbing any stray squirts.

Bob
🇺🇸

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, are you using the correct key? I have a few keys that will fit the lock, but only the brass one works.

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Give the lock two or three good floodings with something like WD-40 before you go to crazy ....

Bob

Use a silicone spray, Water-Displacing Formula 44 has a lot of olive oil in it, which gets gummy over time. It displaces water, but attracts dust and lint.

Mine is a 2012 so I expected that later model mightm have been re-designed. Anyway spray not only the lock, but the intersection where the lock bars go through the door frame. And look at the door from the outside. Is it somewhat askew? Like a hood that doesn't align well with the side panels on a car or truck. Aluminum flexes. I've had some luck GENTLY prying the door from side to side with a bamboo scraper... which gets things back into alignment.
When that has failed, it is time to pull off the inside cover and see what has come apart internally. (It will start raining and wind will blow as soon as you can no longer secure the hatch! )

Paula

[CRH]

My choice for lock lubing is Dri-Slide.

[Gene]

Good ole graphite works fine. WD-40 and other oils will attract dust and dirt. There are greaseless lubricants that might work, but graphite is a proven product. I use it on all locks and the striker plate on the entry door lock too. It is messy and hard to get off your hands (wear cheap gloves—you need them anyway for other tasks like the hitch). Push against the door at the lock may solve the problem—the rubber seals take a long time to break in. Spray them with silicone (window seals too) to reduce sticking. I have compartment locks that stick even if I use them a lot, then more graphite.

It is possible the lock or the key was changed. RV compartment locks usually use the same key on most brands. Don’t keep your gold bars in the compartment or get a better lock or have it rekeyed by a locksmith if you are worried about security. In 14 years of doing this, no one has stolen anything out of an exterior compartment, so I don’t worry too much. If you lose the standard key, just borrow a neighbors to open it.

[Silvr_Bullet]

If you have another key for that lock try that one first, also try graphite.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by s1000pre

I would avoid WD-40 or Lithium…both can collect debris. Get a bottle of graphite powder and spray into the lock. Insert the key in and out and repeat until it’s gliding with no resistance (Keep adding graphite as needed). Once it’s a fluid motion, start working on turning it. It should free up and work like a well oiled bearing. Every single one of my locks were seized up from the factory. I performed this on every lock.

Hi

The problem with a stuck cylinder is that usually some sort of debris is down in there. You need a fluid of some sort to push it out. Graphite is the way to go on a lock that is barely functional. If you have to flood the lock to get it open, next step may be to replace it ....

Bob

[Gene]

Compartment locks on RV's are cheap and some work badly as people have discovered. Graphite will work (usually) and it my take a lot and working it in.

[Foiled Again]

Don't look at just the lock. The shafts?strikers? that move in and out to physically secure the door to the frame can bend, bind and wear out. I actually glued nylon washers onto the frame around the holes which received the strikers. AND I re-tightened the hinges. The door HANGS and can move left and right, potentially even flying open. I AM THINKING (always dangerous) about putting little rubber bumpers inside the frame near the bottom so that the door has less lateral movement.... what to use?

[Double J]

I had a similar issue with the storage compartment lock on my 2009 25’ cloud, but mine was stuck unlocked and I could not lock it.

I was not able to get the lock to budge. When I went to the locksmith to get some spare keys made for the main door to the AS, I asked her. She said to use Tri-flow, pour it on the key and slide it back and forth and add more tri flow if needed. I finally was able to get the lock to unseize after several minutes of jimmying it around.

She advised against WD-40 as it can freeze inside the lock. Might not be a big deal depending on where you live.

One thing I found was that the lock does not move at all with the key fully inserted. I need to pull the key out about a 1/8inch or more to get it to engage and turn.
Below is a picture of how far the key will go in and then a picture of how much I have to pull it back out to get it to turn.

Hope this helps!

[ohiodeziner]

I don't know what is going on. Tried graphite, tried WD, I THINK I tried to pull the key slightly out as well... I'll try that today.

I ended up having to take off the latch inside - only locking the remaining lock. I've been letting it sit, and trying it and to no avail.

I'm thinking of just purchasing two new sets and putting those in.

I have to say, I really appreciate all of the advice. It's such an amazing thing to have a HUGE community of people that have past experiences and knowledge to share!

Thanks so much!

We're about to take our AS to Florida for the winter - the first time, I'm sure I have a few questions bouncing around my head about the trip and all - and I'm sure I'll be back on here to pick your brains!

Stay safe, and thanks!!

-eric

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Double J

I had a similar issue with the storage compartment lock on my 2009 25’ cloud, but mine was stuck unlocked and I could not lock it.

I was not able to get the lock to budge. When I went to the locksmith to get some spare keys made for the main door to the AS, I asked her. She said to use Tri-flow, pour it on the key and slide it back and forth and add more tri flow if needed. I finally was able to get the lock to unseize after several minutes of jimmying it around.

She advised against WD-40 as it can freeze inside the lock. Might not be a big deal depending on where you live.

One thing I found was that the lock does not move at all with the key fully inserted. I need to pull the key out about a 1/8inch or more to get it to engage and turn.
Below is a picture of how far the key will go in and then a picture of how much I have to pull it back out to get it to turn.

Hope this helps!

Have you tried pushing the door in HARD while turning, seems the tumblers are free and the arm may not be moving.
I modified the seal on the rear trunk door of our Classic to stop it from leaking and consequently I have to push in the door while turning the key, otherwise I can twist the key all I want and it will not open.
POI ours won't turn if the key pushed 'all' the way in.

Bob