Leveler Jacks

[Patk]

My jacks on the '76 28 footer- it has 4- seem to have not been used for some time. I got a crank at a local dealer which has worked to lower two of them, the rear two. The crank handle is aluminum and I have bent it but that's not the main issue. I got it pretty well straight.
I've coated the hinges on the jacks with wd40 and managed to get the rears to come down although one is pretty tight still. The front jacks, I am having the dickens getting the square end of the crank to seat on the square studs of the actual jack. I have blown both tubes out with high pressure warer to clear any wasp nests or other critter habitat, but still can't seat the crank end on the studs.

These are a simple all-thread type jack in a sort of double a-frame. I am guessing they are original.
The trailer is not sitting quite level and I am considering using a heavy duty floor jack to take it up and set it on 4x4 oak dunnage just to get it up where I can maybe get the jacks off and rework them. I can set the wheels right down on solid oak blocks more or less, but several inches to a foot higher so I can get under there.

Experience on these jacks anybody?

[m.hony]

I think those stabilizers can be bought and installed without much expense or trouble.
Try silicone spray on them. It hangs around slightly longer than WD-40.
My crank is coming apart where the socket is riveted to the handle. It is good to know that a new crank is readily available.

[dkottum]

Just a reminder those are stabilizer jacks, not for lifting. Just need to be snugged down. Leveling side-to-side is done with boards under the tires, and fore/aft with the tongue jack.

[DKB_SATX]

First I'll reiterate what dkottum says, they're NOT for lifting the trailer at all, the frame isn't designed for that and the stabilizers aren't either.

They're readily available BAL stabilizers, or should be. There's a special part number for Airstreams, with a longer shaft so it's easier to get to the end of the shaft with a socket to raise or lower the stabilizers. I bought a set of 4 from Out Of Doors Mart for my '75 24' and mounted them myself. I have a lot of work to do with the 28' before I'm worried about stabilizers, so I haven't even tried them yet.

[m.hony]

That is the reason I called them "stabilizers".
All they should do is "stabilize" the trailer- keep it from wiggling when you walk-
They should only be cranked down snug- no more-

[Rocinante]

Yes, I set the tension on my battery operated drill so it makes that ratatat sound at either end of the extension or retraction to help ensure I don't over do it. Stabilizing, not lifting. Of course, after a false start on our first camp out I now also remember to put a capped Lynx Leveler block under each stabilizer as it comes to earth so it doesn't squish into the mud or sit under water after a downpour.

[m.hony]

I only use the Lynx levelers on sand, dirt, or gravel. If I am on concrete or asphalt I put the stabilizers on the pavement. I tried the battery drill thing, and I still have that option, but honestly, to me, it is easier to use the hand crank than to keep the drill battery charged...

[goshawks00]

Hmmmm... maybe it's time for a new battery for your drill(or maybe grease the screws). One charge and mine is good for the season.

[m.hony]

To me it is just easier to use the hand crank.
It really isn't that difficult or time consuming.
It is easier to keep the hand crank in the rear bumper storage than to have a drill, battery, and charger somewhere.
I tried it. It just isn't for me. Too much sugar for a dime.
I really prefer the hand crank.

[Aage]

Patk,

Clean the threads on your stabilize (not a leveler, as you now know) with a dry long-handled wire brush. Be sure to wear safety glasses.

Scrub the entire length of one, return to the crank and turn it 180 degrees, then clean the other side of the screw.

Spray them liberally with silicone spray and give them a few cranks, they will work like new. Silicon will not attract dirt, as grease will.

Two or three times a season, repeat the spray, hopefully, you won't have to clean them ever again. Once or twice a season after that should keep them in great shape.

[goshawks00]

Originally Posted by m.hony

Too much sugar for a dime.
I really prefer the hand crank.

Yea I hear ya, but try drilling a hole, or screwing in a few doz screws in case of an emergency, and other uses, with a hand crank... One of Wally's first "rules" of efficiency, multiple uses of one tool saves space...

[m.hony]

So, you don't have your crank in your trailer?
What if the drill quits or the battery goes dead or you lose the socket?

[Patk]

Ok, I get it! Guess once this latest round of ice and crap goes through and melts off I'll be repositioning the Argosy where it's closer to level.
I also see a definite need for a heavy duty floor jack as well.
If I can take those stabilizers off and vat them clean I'm going to do that for starters, then silicone a bit later.
So are they mounted with a few bolts each? wonder what size?

[goshawks00]

Originally Posted by m.hony

What if the drill quits or the battery goes dead or you lose the socket?

I carry a complete set of tools that are all multi use, sockets, box ends etc. so a hand crank is just redundant, and taking up space..

[Rocinante]

I totally keep the crank in the trailer as a backup, inside where it stays dry and hopefully corrosion-free. I never looked to see whether the crank was maybe actually stainless steel or aluminum - I just assumed it would rust in the rear bumper! Anyway, I like the drill, it makes the job quick and fun. I can see how a good slow crank on each stabilizer could be a sort of meditative exercise, so that's cool too. To each his own, eh?

[goshawks00]

Yes!!! I love the meditative hmmmmmm.... of a good cordless

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Patk

So are they mounted with a few bolts each? wonder what size?

Rusty and ready to break off at a moments' notice.

They will be anywhere from 3/8"-1/2", depending on who installed them, what size self tapping screws they used originally, and how much of the heads have rusted off.

[m.hony]

I guess with this comment I will leave the drill vs. crank thing alone.
I have tried the drill thing. It seemed not to save any time and it's more trouble than its worth.
So far the crank hasn't rusted in the bumper.
Use a drill all you want.
It ain't no skin off my back.
It don't bother me.
Won't change the fact I choose not to...
It just ain't my bag man.
Don't let it bother you.
Leave me alone about it.
So far I haven't found the need to carry a bunch of "multi-use" tools, but I do carry more than I have ever used.
I have the following tools on board:
1. Various size flat and phillips screw drivers
2. Hammer
3. Socket set
4. Torque wrench
5. 4 way lug wrench
6. Tire change ramp
7. Fix-a-flat
8. 12 volt compressor
9. Level
10. Electrical tape
11. Wire nuts/connectors
So far this basic set of tools has worked.
Maybe to tool kit will expand as the trailer ages and new problems arise.

[goshawks00]

hahaha maybe you need to get new batteries or a real drill

As far as attaching your stabilizers, use 3/4" self taping screws with hex heads. Use your, {hehehe}, cordless drill and make sure you are screwing into your framework when attaching. Possibly put some lock tight on the threads before putting them on.

[m.hony]

Uh...
No. I don't...