Leak at Front Window

[Pride&Joy]

Hello all! We have a 2001 Limited 30' we purchased in July 2017. While removing carpet to have flooring installed we discovered that the carpet padding was wet from what appears to be a leak at the front curbside window. The local RV dealer (not an Airstream dealer) was confident regarding the repair and resealed the front window. However, we are still seeing water come in after the repair! We have taken our Airstream back to the dealer for a follow up repair (no charge!). You can see a black streak from the window to the floor on the "mouse fur".
Any advice on where else this leak could be coming from? The inside of the battery box was dry. We have to be sure this leak is gone before having our new floor installed. Thank you!!!!

[cwf]

On our 1999 34’ the water came mostly from the upper clearance lights. Care must be taken in that the wires to those light positions are notoriously short in length. Add more if you replace and seal wires well. Make sure wires are also clean!!!

Now I knew the other lights would have issues...

Some folks drill small drain hole at base of housing but this also allows water intrusion.

I used “potted” led replacements and sealed the area “properly.” Without proper seal, water builds up inside then drips into the hull through he wiring hole.

To verify this is the leak you can dry it well and run some more water into the hole... day about a turkey Baster full.... check for water.

Next, wherever the aluminum window sides join to build a frame are leak prone... put water in ther after the clearance light test.. does the water “wick” away??where to?

On floor, I used “Git Rot”.... amazing marine low viscosity epoxy... it seeps and can be injected into the wood where it is “wicked” into the open dry pores... those 3 steps resolved out leak in that area (there is likely more than one””)..

[cwf]

Oh... you can clean the mouse fur with a upholstery machine... water and baking soda and good soap.

[dznf0g]

The window leak can be persistent and difficult to "patch seal". It may need to come out and be resealed completely. Relative to the battery box....dry inside doesn't necessarily mean leak free. I just noticed that mine leaks while driving only. Look into the vent slots in the box door frame and examine the "rolled over" area of the plastic liner. (the plastic flange which is trapped between the frame and outer skin). Particularly pay attention to the one directly above the A-frame member. You may see a crack which is caused by the flexing of the frame while driving. I used windshield adhesive to fill and seal the cracks on both boxes.

[woodfox45]

Leaks find their way in check you clearance light and also your front window sometimes the water will follow a rib between the skin . We had ours resealed at Jackson Center last spring they did a pressure leak test . I did have a front window leak and the replaced the weather seal on that window plus some other areas .

[GammaDog]

FWIW, I had a leak in the same spot. Mine was water getting between the curved window glass and metal window frame by going past the seal that connects the glass to the frame. I discovered the source by removing the window bezel inside the trailer. I'm not sure if your windows are constructed in the same manner, but on my 2014 there is no mechanical fastener holding the glass from the inside to the aluminum frame which is riveted to the outside... only the gasket/adhesive. Where the frame follows a slightly different curve than the glass that adhesive layer was not thick enough to span the gap after a few seasonal cycles.

[cwf]

Pressure testing can help

[AlinCal]

I recently removed all my interior front skin and end cap, I was unaware of any leaking until I did this but found one of my battery box doors leaked and windows between pano and center window joint.
The battery box door was removed to find no sealant at skin/door/box just a big smear after assembly from the inside around the plastic box and skin.
This leak was significant and rotted through the floor in a small area under the box. the window seal not so bad but enough to be concerned about long term.
Had no leaking at marker lights though.
My intention for the removal was for repair of some outer skin dings and build an aluminum end cap to replace the ugly yellowing and cracking end cap, my wife thought I was crazy until it revealed the leaking that I was not aware of and better able to stop.

[PatLee]

woodbox 45 - Did you have to remove everything inside for them to do the test? How long did it take? Thanks!

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by PatLee

woodbox 45 - Did you have to remove everything inside for them to do the test? How long did it take? Thanks!

PatLee…you are responding to a discussion-thread from 2018. I doubt the OP is following…. YOu might try a Pvt Msg.

[dznf0g]

Reviving this thread. My Panos are leaking again, between the glass and the frame in which they are just placed (in sealer).
It appears to be the same vulkem used throughout the trailer. Last time, I just dug out what I could from the outside and pressed new sealer in with my fingertip.
I am wondering if it is best to remove the glass, clean well and go back with automotive 3M windshield adhesive????
Has anyone removed and replaced the panos who could share the process and tools used? What is the thought on windshield adhesive?

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[dznf0g]

Anyone? Opinion on windshield adhesive?

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[majorairhead]

Water will seep under the glass and in to the inner sill of the window. After consult with Jackson Center, I decided to clean the channel between the window glass and the exterior window frame. I didn't dig the good stuff out, just brushed the loose stuff out of the gap. I then sealed with adseal production. I've had no issues since.

I did all windows on our unit except those that open.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by majorairhead

Water will seep under the glass and in to the inner sill of the window. After consult with Jackson Center, I decided to clean the channel between the window glass and the exterior window frame. I didn't dig the good stuff out, just brushed the loose stuff out of the gap. I then sealed with adseal production. I've had no issues since.

I did all windows on our unit except those that open.

That's what I did several years ago. Lasted for awhile, but there is too much movement in the front end for polyurethane to stay adhered. You can see from the inside how it pulls away...particularly inboard side and bottom....right above the A frame. That's why I am thinking auto windshield adhesive. But I don't want to overlook something and regret it later.

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[Wayne&Sam]

On my 2007 20' the leak was from the hinge at the top of the window guard. I sealed where the hinge attached to the body and all was good.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

On my 2007 20' the leak was from the hinge at the top of the window guard. I sealed where the hinge attached to the body and all was good.

Yeah, this is definitely a window-to-frame leak. Been there before. As a test only, I applied captain tolleys as a test. (It's white) Very easy to see the trail to the inside. Also easy, with tolleys to see how flexing the frame torques that area fo the window frame.

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[majorairhead]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

That's what I did several years ago. Lasted for awhile, but there is too much movement in the front end for polyurethane to stay adhered. You can see from the inside how it pulls away...particularly inboard side and bottom....right above the A frame. That's why I am thinking auto windshield adhesive. But I don't want to overlook something and regret it later.

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Good info. to have. I'll be keeping an eye on it. I did Captain Tolley first, then followed up with adseal. It's sticking tight to both glass and aluminum trim...so far.

I wiped the glass and trim with denatured alcohol, taped off the glass leaving a narrow strip exposed and then caulked it just like a bathtub surround, or counter backslash. It actually looks damn near OEM 😄

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by majorairhead

Good info. to have. I'll be keeping an eye on it. I did Captain Tolley first, then followed up with adseal. It's sticking tight to both glass and aluminum trim...so far.



I wiped the glass and trim with denatured alcohol, taped off the glass leaving a narrow strip exposed and then caulked it just like a bathtub surround, or counter backslash. It actually looks damn near OEM [emoji1]

Yup, that's what I do, just tired of redoing it every 4 or 5 years.

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[PatLee]

dznf06 - thanks for reviving this thread. The new posts are timely, informative and many describe the type leakage I am seeing right now on one of my front panos. Recently, (on another thread), I learned about Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure and ordered 2 oz of it from Amazon. It got glowing reviews from the many users on the thread. It comes from the Marine boat industry and stays pliable - a good thing on the constantly flexing, front ends of our Airstreams.