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Old 10-18-2013, 08:01 PM   #21
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1962 22' Safari
denton , North Carolina
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Colin, what type of insulation do you recommend replacing the original with? I do agree with you on replacing, the more I think about it the more I don't want to cover the or any problem.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:13 PM   #22
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1959 28' Ambassador
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Colin, what type of insulation do you recommend replacing the original with? I do agree with you on replacing, the more I think about it the more I don't want to cover the or any problem.
This is like asking Forum members what the best tow vehicle is I have used Reflectex, Prodex, Fiber Glass, Rigid foam & combinations of these. You can probably do a search for threads on these products & form your own opinion...................or listen to the VAP for my opinion.
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:22 AM   #23
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I am doing a 62 Overlander -

I personally really struggled with stripping the interior skins - I used gallons of citristrip, pressure washer...they still look terrible and LOT of time (many days) and money wasted relative to the cost of just buying new aluminum, which I'm going to end up doing now anyway. So props to you for that decision.

I would echo Colin's advice to pull them out, though. In my case, I discovered broken ribs, missing stringers, sheared rivets, obvious leaks, etc.. My insulation was actually rodent free, but definitely had retained 50 years of dust and smoking and cooking odors. Plus, the structural concerns would have been more difficult to identify and correct if I hadn't pulled it all out.

You've already entered the black hole...too late to turn back now
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:32 AM   #24
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Ok I have another question, What is the general consensus on the material type of the interior skin, enough material to reskin in 2024 is 1200.00 or I can use 3003 for 385.00 any thoughts?
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:56 AM   #25
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skin materials

You Guys better do some searching.....if your price aware. I just replaced all the interior skins on a 1956. I used .030 and 5052. The 5052 came with a clear plastic coat that protects the surface form marks during work. The 4x8 sheets were 30 dollars each. You can polish them too, if your so inclined.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:03 AM   #26
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I am a bit concerned with the cost but I would like to know the the grade will be ok
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:34 PM   #27
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You're right to be concerned. Be certain you get the right grade. I screwed up bad once, ordered the wrong #. 4 ft X 12 ft for the ceiling. To soft, ripples everywhere. Used it on the curbside lower where it was mostly covered by cabinets & appliances. Reordered the proper hardness for the top. Smooth as glass. I've forgotten the #'s. Look through the skins and ribs section and get it right the first time. Look up post by Aerowood. He's the first one that comes to mind that really knows aluminum.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:01 AM   #28
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Update!!

progress has been made, a new axle from inland rv and new wheels and tires...
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:15 AM   #29
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Air conditioning thought......

So I really don't like the roof top air conditioners... my plan, is to use a a household unit. I've heard they wont hold up, im gonna try anyway. so the plan is to install it where the furnace used to be, tilted up slightly with a catch pan underneath, the end of the ac will be poking out of the outer skin about 2 inches with a nice aluminum cover over it open to the bottom for water to exit. then the cool air intake vents for the evaporator coil will be supplied from under the camper through the floor. Thoughts??
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:47 PM   #30
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It works. I had a 1964 Catalina [flatside] that had a similar setup. Papers said the AC unit was from 1982. I used the camper a few years and sold it in 2010. Ac still worked as new!
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:04 PM   #31
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So I really don't like the roof top air conditioners... my plan, is to use a a household unit. I've heard they wont hold up, im gonna try anyway. so the plan is to install it where the furnace used to be, tilted up slightly with a catch pan underneath, the end of the ac will be poking out of the outer skin about 2 inches with a nice aluminum cover over it open to the bottom for water to exit. then the cool air intake vents for the evaporator coil will be supplied from under the camper through the floor. Thoughts??
I don't like old roof top AC units either especially for smaller vintage trailers with large square edged windows. Your approach sounds reasonable to me. Try it and see how well it works Remember though that new solutions have new problems. What are you going to do when it gets cold and you need the furnace? We use the furnace much more than the AC.

I store my AC in the bottom of the closet until I need it. Then I install it in the side window. It works quite well there. Here are some photos. I have a thread on the installation of the window unit. Just look up my name and statistics to find the threads started by me.

I would not worry about the reliability of the AC. You won't use it that much unless you are full timing and camping in full sun. Also you can buy a new one for about $100.

Dan
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:13 PM   #32
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:07 AM   #33
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Dan, Thanks for the input, on the topic of the furnace vs ac we go to the beach a lot during the summer months so I believe this is going to be the best choice for us, the furnace was going to have to be replaced anyway so I figured using that slot for the ac instead of covering it up would be an excellent choice. I will post photos later of the install.
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Old 06-21-2014, 12:55 AM   #34
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Since you are mounting your AC so low you will tend to have a large temperature differential between the floor and the ceiling. I recommend using a circulating fan on the interior to help make the temperature distribution more uniform.

Anything you can do to cut down the heat gain of the trailer will help in the operation of your AC. I am talking about parking in the shade (good luck at the beach), pointing the Airstream north, insulating the vents and skylights, insulating the windows with curtains, film or shades, etc.

Let us know how well it works out for you.

Dan
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Old 06-22-2014, 04:41 AM   #35
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Dan, I have already changed the windows out with tinted lexan so that will help a bit. next I will not be using the existing output vents on the ac, instead I will route them using flex hose to a location where the air will be blown up near the wall of the camper instead of out, this will make it more like a conventional setup like a house, vents on the floor, where the air is blown up and falls back down. I will let all know how it works, and will post pics of the complete install.
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:43 PM   #36
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Hey dcroadster,
We are practically neighbors, I'm 15 miles north of Denton. Don't know how I missed this thread, since it's been going on since last year. You have made good progress on your Safari! Going to be a nice one!
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