I think I screwed up

[zen_stream]

I’ve been putting on a layer of reflex in my trailer. Not a lot of info on how to do this. Lots of general info but no specifics of how to adhere it. So I used Tite Seal window flashing tape to keep it in place. It was the only tape I could find that didn’t fall off the aluminum. I guess I didn’t do my research because I just found out this is rubberized asphalt tape. It kinda smells like tar if you put your nose up to it.

Now I’m worried this is going to off gas when the trailer gets hot, or at least it might smell like roofing tar. Sounds like a nightmare.

Should I tear all my insulation out and redo with something else to adhere the reflex? Or is rubberized asphalt tape fine to use in this setting?
Just looking out for potential problems down the road. Attachment 1

[zen_stream]

[Bubba L]

I certainly don’t know what the off gassing is going to be. I would err on the side of caution. What if you leave it and finish the insides then it start smelling? Can you heat up a piece with a hair drier and see if it smells like tar? I’m sure it was a bunch of work. If you tear it out and start over, you may try 3M 90 spray adhesive. We used that on the 55 to stick the Prodex and it held up great. Good luck and let us know.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Bet Go-rilla tape would work.
Never noticed a smell and it sure does stick good.👍

Bob
🇺🇸

[Airtandem]

We cut the Reflex to fit and use the curtains and or blinds to keep in place. Heve done this way for 10 years . store the Reflex under the cushions/ mattress.

[Hein]

LowE is much better than Reflectix. It's a closed cell foam with aluminum skins. The bubbles in Reflectix tend to go flat over time. 3M 90 spray adhesive would be a good way to bond it. Or use this tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H1U35XQ



All the best,
Hein

[Airtandem]

For removal of the tape; one might try WD40. I had tar from road construction over a good portion of my A$$ and it removed it. I also used Remington gun solvent,

[B. Cole]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Bet Go-rilla tape would work.
Never noticed a smell and it sure does stick good.��

Bob
����

I agree with Bob.
A big roll of 2 inch Silver Gorilla Tape ( like $9 at Wally World, in paint dept.) should be included with every new Airstream.Sticks to Aluminum+ an added plus,it matches the outside of the trailer .
Would work with this application.
Edit- Upon further review, I see you've got a 1968 model.You might need 2 rolls.
The Gorilla Tape would be be great for sealing the outside window edges, I'm sure the gaskets arnt sealing.
Like sailors say "Any port in a storm"

[mrdes8]

Sounds like you're installing a reflective layer to the inside of skins... skins cleaned, yep, 3M 90 spray adhesive (follow directions on can). Instead of refltix I used an HVAC 1/4" thick foam with reflective skin on both sides. 4' X 25' rolls on e-bay. Then... many options...I went with another HVAC product 1 1/2" thick fiberglass with 1 side reflective for wrapping duct work. Again 4' x 25' rolls on e-bay. I have also used the thinsulate insulation currently very popular with van builders to make inside window covers ("68 Overlander, lot's of glass), nice product, not sure how cost would shake out. Again glued up with 90 spray adhesive. BTW, window covers are thinsulate spray glued to Reflectix, keep the trailer much warmer when temps drop below 30.
Stay warm (or cool), Mark D
O yeah, no noticeable smell after install but have good ventilation during install.

[Hein]

3M citrus base adhesive remover works great on all kinds of sticky residues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGKCF8E

In vans we have found that radiant barriers like LowE and Reflectix are more effective on the inside of the insulation. So the layering is: van (trailer) skin / Thinsulate SM600L / LowE / interior panels.

The reason is that radiant barriers ideally need an air space behind them. Thinsulate SM600L appears to be low density enough to satisfy that need.

The radiant barrier on the inside slows the progression of heat that builds up in the wall cavity in hot conditions and slows heat loss from the interior in cold temps. This strategy has worked quite well in vans.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

[uwe]

Air space is crucial.
In our builds, we use scraps of the prodex product ( closed cell instead of air bubbles) to make spacers between aluminum skin and interior for the product to properly function. The R value is similar, maybe a little better than fiber, but without the dust and fibers. We do 3 layers on the roof, with spacers between each layer. Aluminum tape from big home stores works great. ( HVAC Isle) Air tightness is crucial. 2 layers from the windows down...with excellent results. There is still room for the usual wiring over the third layer on the roof. It really helps, also, to run cork or foam strips up and down each interior rib to discourage heat transfer from the structure. This is like arts and crafts! Have fun with it!
BTW, prodex now come in thicker than 1/4 in which will reduce the installation time because you dont need so many layers any more.

[SailorSam205]

Hmmm. I wonder if the aluminum foil tape used to seal HVAC ducting would work. Designed to adhere to aluminum. I used it to seal most of my S&B ducts (older house). No asphalt and nothing to cause odors. Creates a nice air tight seal.

[guskmg]

There is an insulation tape used in metal buildings that fastens fiberglas mats to the metal skin. It is placed on the inside with the fiberglas mat against the skin. There is also a repair tape that matches the plastic side of the mat.
guskmg

[zen_stream]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

I certainly don’t know what the off gassing is going to be. I would err on the side of caution. What if you leave it and finish the insides then it start smelling? Can you heat up a piece with a hair drier and see if it smells like tar? I’m sure it was a bunch of work. If you tear it out and start over, you may try 3M 90 spray adhesive. We used that on the 55 to stick the Prodex and it held up great. Good luck and let us know.

Yes, it was a ton of work and in super reluctant to undo all of it. I tried taking down a section today and I'm starting to realize it's going to take me weeks to undo this and clean things up. The tape doesn't come off cleanly and leaves a residue. It rips up the reflectix when I try to remove it. I could probably clean the residue with solvents but I'm worried this will ruin the sealing I've done.

I thought maybe this isn't so bad. So I tried as suggested, taped up one side of a piece of alclad sheet and hit the other side with a heat gun wile in the trailer. Did that for a while. No noticeable petrolium smell other than some trempro I had just put down last night. I'll run the test again and maybe expose the tape to the heat longer. From what I can tell the only time I can smell the tar is when you remove the backing from the tape when applying it, and even then you have to hold your nose up to it.

I looked up the product info and it says noting about dangerous VOCs. States "Under normal conditions of use, this product is not expected to create any unusual emergency hazards." Maybe I'm just overthinking as always. For what it's worth it works really well for holding up the reflectix, its waterproof, won't mold, and seems to keep the air movement under the Reflectix layer to a minimum. Maybe I could do a vapor barrier between he ribs and inner skins just to make sure the potential offending smell.

[zen_stream]

Originally Posted by uwe

Air space is crucial.
In our builds, we use scraps of the prodex product ( closed cell instead of air bubbles) to make spacers between aluminum skin and interior for the product to properly function. The R value is similar, maybe a little better than fiber, but without the dust and fibers. We do 3 layers on the roof, with spacers between each layer. Aluminum tape from big home stores works great. ( HVAC Isle) Air tightness is crucial. 2 layers from the windows down...with excellent results. There is still room for the usual wiring over the third layer on the roof. It really helps, also, to run cork or foam strips up and down each interior rib to discourage heat transfer from the structure. This is like arts and crafts! Have fun with it!
BTW, prodex now come in thicker than 1/4 in which will reduce the installation time because you dont need so many layers any more.

Yep I made sure we had an air gap. We have 1/2" foam spacers holding the reflectix layer off the skin. Im going to put rockwol in the remaining 1" of space.

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by uwe

It really helps, also, to run cork or foam strips up and down each interior rib to discourage heat transfer from the structure. This is like arts and crafts! Have fun with it!

Uwe,
Is there a particular brand of cork or foam that you use on the ribs?
Thanks!

[80Ram]

Good luck with your project.