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DDickey · 05-09-2016, 06:27 PM

A month or so ago we brought home a 1957 22' Custom and named her Lucy. We love the old gal, but she is in need of some love and affection, so we're going to give her the full Monty. I anticipate the job taking two years, and I want to thank the board in advance for your advice, expertise and moral support. Here's Lucy:

DDickey · 05-09-2016, 06:38 PM

Over the past four weeks I've gutted the interior, stored the cabinets to use for patterns, stripped all of the old Velkem, and tested for leaks. She leaks like a colander. I'm not sure if I've done the right thing, but I took the interior end cap apart in order to store it for the duration of the restoration, and to make it easier to clean and strip. I guess I get to practice buck riveting with it.

DDickey · 05-09-2016, 06:53 PM

Today was the day. Pulling the shell wasn't all that bad really. The biggest PITA was the blind rivets around the perimeter. I don't think the guys at Airstream thought, 'you know, someday someone is going to deconstruct this thing and put to all back together like brand new.' If they would have, they would have built it differently. But I'm excited to get to this point, it feels like I'm making progress.

I'm going to go back with 5/8" marine grade plywood, and most of the belly pan is going to have to be replaced. I'm not real sure how hard it's going to be to form the belly pan curves around the perimeter - I'm concerned about making that look good. Lucy's going to get two gray tanks and one black, and so far it looks like the frame is in pretty good condition. A little sandblasting and some POR 15 and I think I'll be back in business.

DDickey · 05-10-2016, 08:46 PM

Wow, the frame is in great condition! I expected to have to do a lot of work on it because the PO had done a butcher job of a remodel and essentially destroyed the belly pan, but the frame needs very little. I had budgeted to have it sandblasted, but I think I'm just going do it myself since it needs so little.

I bit the bullet and bought 3/4" solid gold sheets...I mean marine grade plywood for the subfloor. I was shocked at the price, and almost didn't do it, and if you choose to use CDX instead of marine grade I don't blame you. The pic is of the new subfloor over the old. I went ahead and cut the new subfloor while the old one was still on so I could match it precisely.

The thing I'm most stressed about on the bottom is the belly pan. I'm going to have to replace it entirely, and I've never worked with large aluminum sheets before. I hope I get the corners right

DryFly · 05-10-2016, 10:00 PM

Great thread. Thanks for posting.

Foiled Again · 05-10-2016, 10:38 PM

I don't do big renovations, but you're fortunate because there are a lot of people in your area who do.

If you're worried about handling a big sheet of aluminum for the belly pan, well there's a lot to be said for making it in multiple pieces - with access covers included to drain tanks, etc. Drains aren't a bad thing either if you can make them critter proof. Last, obviously if you lap 2, 3 pieces do it so that the bottom lap faces rearward so that it isn't a water scoop when towing in the rain.

Your frame looks to be fantastic. BTW you don't need to get it sandblasted. wire brush off the loose stuff and use your POR-15 (it stands for Paint OVER RUST and will stop it cold.) Any you get on yourself will be there until the skin sluffs off. Comet kinda works until the pain becomes too intense.

Good start, keep moving, one step at a time.

Paula

DDickey · 05-11-2016, 03:18 PM

Handling the belly pan in smaller, more manageable pieces was exactly what I was thinking about doing. Right now it's two sections with the seam down the middle, but I think I'm going to do it in four sections with an additional seam over the axle. I hear you on the lap joint.

Today I worked six hours on salvaging the step. It was in pretty sorry shape, but I don't like the way replacement steps look, so I'm doing everything I can to save this one. It's still not quite right, but I think about two more hours work and it will be ready for prime time. Please forgive my very sloppy weld - I was out of gas. I promise not to do that again

centennialman · 05-11-2016, 03:25 PM

Holy Cow!! Great job....thanks for sharing your hard work and photos!

DDickey · 05-11-2016, 05:25 PM

I've done hundreds and hundreds of hours of mechanic work on cars, trucks and trailers of all vintages, but I've never seen anything like this. The best I can surmise is that these are electro-magnetic brakes. When the circuit is energized the disk at the bottom magnetizes against the spinning drum and leverages the brakes. The faster the drum is spinning the more brake is applied, am I right? Are these things worth keeping? Is there and upgrade? What the heck do I do with these things?

DDickey · 05-11-2016, 05:28 PM

Is this a beauty mark or a panel that needs to be replaced? It's right on the borderline to me. I want to build as much value into Lucy as I can, but I also want her to show her age and be proud of the years she's been on the road. What say you?

Wayne&Sam · 05-11-2016, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDickey

I've done hundreds and hundreds of hours of mechanic work on cars, trucks and trailers of all vintages, but I've never seen anything like this. The best I can surmise is that these are electro-magnetic brakes. When the circuit is energized the disk at the bottom magnetizes against the spinning drum and leverages the brakes. The faster the drum is spinning the more brake is applied, am I right? Are these things worth keeping? Is there and upgrade? What the heck do I do with these things?

Yup those are trailer brakes. You can buy new entire assemblies for about what it would cost to replace all the pieces that need to be replaced. Brand new trailers use the same brakes.

DDickey · 05-11-2016, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

Yup those are trailer brakes. You can buy new entire assemblies for about what it would cost to replace all the pieces that need to be replaced. Brand new trailers use the same brakes.

Hmmmmmm....well I guess I've never worked on a trailer with brakes! It does look like the best way to go is with a loaded backing plate - now to find the right one...

LittleLucy · 05-11-2016, 07:19 PM

What a great adventure. I too love Lucy......my 2002 Bambi 19ft is named Little Lucy.
Enjoying your journey!

DDickey · 05-11-2016, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LittleLucy

What a great adventure. I too love Lucy......my 2002 Bambi 19ft is named Little Lucy.
Enjoying your journey!

*hi5!*

DDickey · 05-14-2016, 01:34 PM

I've been working on the frame the past few days, doing some minor welding and getting it ready to paint. POR 15 arrives on Monday, and I hope to have the frame painted by the end of next weekend. I've also been doing a lot of planning and layout. I want to put the black(1), gray(2) and fresh(1) tanks between the frame members (50"x20"x4") because I really don't want the tanks to stick below the belly pan. That just sounds like an invitation for rats. It will be rare that we boondock, so I don't feel like capacity is an issue, but I can't seem to find a 50"x20"x4" black tank. Gray and fresh are no problem. I'd love to not have to order a custom tank, would it be a sin to use a gray tank with hard corners for my black tank? I'm going to put the bathroom in a similar location to urban food's 56 flying cloud (attached pic).

DDickey · 05-15-2016, 05:16 PM

Using the gantries I built to lift the shell to lift and turn the frame. I'm really glad I decided to do this as a shell off. The idea of pulling the shell is far more intimidating than actually pulling the shell, and being able to easily get to every part of the frame is awesome. Even though the frame is in very good condition I'm going to replace two cross members. One was cut by the PO to scab in a black tank, and the rear most member was rusty enough to replace.

DDickey · 05-19-2016, 09:04 PM

Well, I can't seem to find a 4" thick black tank anywhere, it seems that 5" is the thinnest tank. What to do, what to do? I could add an inch to the cross members of the frame to make the frame 5" thick so an off the shelf tank would fit, but that seems like an awful lot of work. A custom tank is expensive, but probably cheaper and easier than making the frame thicker. Are there really no 4" thick black tanks anywhere? 50"x21"x4" would be perfect...

PKI · 05-19-2016, 10:32 PM

A set of 4in framed 2001-2005 22s suffered frame failure. Not sure about the loads involved, but I would investigate the structure required for a robust renovation. A stronger frame might be a good upgrade, but also may be complete overkill. Good luck. Pat

DDickey · 05-20-2016, 05:49 PM

I finished the welding on the frame yesterday, removed the remaining loose rust, prepped it with POR 15 Metal Prep and got the first coat on the frame. I like the way POR 15 brushes on, it has the consistency of motor oil. If it doesn't rain I'll do the second coat tomorrow, and then I'm stuck with my tank conundrum. I don't want to do an above the floor tank, and I don't want a tank that will stick out below the belly pan, but I can't find a black tank that fits perfectly. Inca will custom make one for $1000, but that's a bit pricy. They have one that almost fits, but part of it will stick one inch below the frame. Since I'm completely replacing the belly pan I'm wondering if I can just have a 1" bulge in the middle to cover this tank? That seems reasonable, but since I've never done aluminum work I don't know what I don't know, and I don't know if this will work.

HiHoAgRV · 05-20-2016, 07:52 PM

Vintage Trailer Supply sells tanks that are specifically designed for your frame, much cheaper than $1000. I have used them and NOW is the time to fit them, you can replace crossmembers with 4x2" tube for a solid mounting location.

Do some checking on the bearings/seals/brake hubs before you invest in new brakes, you will probably find that every part you have is obsolete and it's cheaper/easier to buy a new loaded axle.

I use 4' wide sheets for the bellypan, run crosswise between the frame rails and overlapped at the crossmembers. The side wraps I run longways and stop them at the main frame rail.

Cool project!!!