Has anyone installed a Fan-tastic vent?

[MikeSandyZ]

I am trying to install a Fan-tastic vent (7350) on my 88 Airsteam Excella. Can anyone who has done this tell me what size rivets to use and what type of sealant? Thanks.
Mike Z

[jdalrymple]

I installed two with Dicor self leveling sealer and sheet metal screws.

Rivets will break the plastic frame of the fan when pulled tight.

I also have used butyl tape under the flanges along with the Dicor.



Regards,

JD

[Bill M.]

I took one out and then re installed it. Mine was installed (by Airstream Jackson Center) with sheet metal screws instead of rivets. I think stainless #10 phillips head sheet metal screw. I used the grey Trempo 635 sealant ordered from OUtdoors mart. This is the sealant that is sometimes referred to as Vulkem. It does a good job for this type of installation.

One thing. With our fan installation there was no spacer or shroud between the inner and outer layer of the ceiling. I recommend that you put some sort of spacer between the layers of aluminum. I used wood strips fore and aft and band sawed them to the curved shape of the trailer A better choice would be ultra high weight polyetythelene or some other plastic material. The frame or strips around the opening preserves the shape of the roof line and also gives something solid to screw into to make the seal. I drill the holes in the Al large enough so that the screws grip on the framing between the layers and squeeze the fan flange and the Al skin together on the sealant

[crispyboy]

I used regular Sikaflex under the flange, stainless screws (as mentioned above) and Sikaflex self leveling on the screws and the edge of the flange. The self leveling on the exterior makes for a much simpler, quicker and professional looking job.

[Lily&Me]

Customer service at Fantastic Fan is excellent, and if you call them they will tell you anything you need to know.

My late husband had to replace some things installed improperly on our Interstate, and he took the cell phone with him to the roof...they walked him thru it, over the phone.


Maggie

[airdreamers]

Originally Posted by crispyboy

I used regular Sikaflex under the flange, stainless screws (as mentioned above) and Sikaflex self leveling on the screws and the edge of the flange. The self leveling on the exterior makes for a much simpler, quicker and professional looking job.

I totally agree with crispyboy. Also mentioned above, calling Fantastic/Dometic is always a pleasant experience, they are great! BTW, I hope that you are aware of the special curved plastic inner molding that conforms to the curved roof of the Airstream, they are available from them at no additional cost. I had a plastic one crack at the screw hole a few years after purchase, they replaced it FREE! Free
shipped!

[Al and Missy]

I removed and re-installed the fans on my 25 due to leaks. The fans originally come with a foam gasket. In time, it compresses and no longer seals the crack between the fan flange and the skin. The fans with their foam gaskets were just screwed to the aluminum skin with sheet metal screws. Someone had smeared sealant along the joint line between the fan and the skin, but just on the outside. The skin flexed enough to break the seal.

I made stiffeners from pieces of 1"x1"x1/8" aluminum angle cut to fit the edges of the fans. I match-drilled them to the fan flange and stuck them to the underside of the skin with tape, aligning the holes in the stiffeners with the holes in the skin. I taped around the opening leaving space for the flange and a 1/8" gap. I put a substantial bead of sealant in the un-taped area and placed the fan to line up with the original holes and the angle.

A friend once told me that one should not tighten screws on a caulked joint all the way until the sealant has cured. If the screws are tightened all the way initially most of the sealant squeezes out leaving only a very thin seal. It is better to tighten them only enough to get a uniform squeeze-out of sealant. Leave the sealant to cure and tighten the screws fully the next day. An alternative is to place a washer on each screw to limit how far down the flange can be tightened against the skin leaving a thicker seal.

Al

[CRH]

I replaced mine this summer. I put butyl tape under the frame flange, fastened it down with the included sheet metal screws and put Dicor self leveling on the frame to roof edge and screw heads.

[TheGreatleys]

I installed maxxfans, but same principle. Stainless screws, butyl tape under the flange, and TremPro to seal the perimeter and the screw heads.

I added a piece of aluminum angle on the underside of the skin toward the front and back to flatten out curve and take the stress off the plastic frame. Seemed like a good idea. Also gave something more substantial for the screws to bite into.

[overlander63]

Unless there has been a major change recently, Fantastic Vent is owned by Atwood, not Dometic.

[rucos]

Dito on sikaflex ....stainless screws ... I installed my first one exhaust only in the rear ...my second in the front was the 2way intake/exhaust style .... having the front intake while the back exhausts works great for maintaining ambient temperature without AC.

[Phoenix]

Tip on how to fix stripped, vent-installation screw holes in aluminum roof panels (which may be the cause of roof leaks in vent area):

How to Replace a FantasticFan - AirForums.com

Note: Spring nuts are available from Harbor Freight and other sources for only a few dollars.