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Old 01-19-2021, 06:18 PM   #1
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2020 27' Flying Cloud
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Fresh water flood

Just purchased a 2020 flying cloud 27FB that had flood waters about a foot inside the trailer. I am currently working to clean it up and dry it out. All electrical is working for now except the converter. I was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue? My challenge now is identifying how to dry the wall insulation. Any thoughts?
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Old 01-19-2021, 07:19 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum, Bob!

Lots of potential issues with wet insulation trapped inside the walls, but the first thing I would do is buy a bunch of Dampp-Chasers, and lay them on the floor right at all the walls you can access. Ditto for inside any spaces where it makes sense. They are low-wattage units designed to keep closets dry, and to minimize humidity under pianos etc..

We have had a few short units in our FC20 during all the winter storage through the years, and there is no mold or mildew inside as a result. Available in 2' 3' and 4' lengths. Family pianists used them decades ago.

https://www.amazon.com/Dampp-Chaser-...1109222&sr=8-3

You will need to be on shore power for this, and I would leave them plugged in all the time. Follow their minimal safety precautions.

You could also run a dehumidifier, maybe in the shower, and let the water drain out the grey tank and open waste line, if possible in the freezing weather. Or rig the drain up some other way.

What liquid other than water was in the flood water? Any chemical, oil, gas or sewage issues? And for how long was the trailer flooded?

Good luck,
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Old 01-19-2021, 07:20 PM   #3
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Man, I feel for you.

Lots of space heaters and dehumidifiers. Take everything out that is wet. Open all the cupboards, closets and drawers. Keep the equipment going for two weeks (or more). If you can dry it quickly, you can keep down the mold growth (even in the walls).

Good luck!
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Old 01-19-2021, 07:45 PM   #4
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Welcome Aboard👍

Remove the belly pan and all the soaked insulation, let the floor dry from underneath.👍

Sweet Streams...

Bob
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Old 01-19-2021, 08:21 PM   #5
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I would consider cutting a 2-3" hole in the inner skins, down low, where it will never be seen, maybe every 18" or so......this will give the cavity the opportunity to breathe some and maybe dry without molding......If you get a bunch of mold in the wall cavity, that thing could be very dangerous.....
...this is the way the professional water mitigation companies do it.....drill holes in walls, and run dehumidifiers for days....
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Old 01-19-2021, 08:26 PM   #6
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Water

It does not appear to have anything in the water other than fine silt. Not sure how long it was flooded for but none of the cabinets, doors or drawers are damaged from the water. One drawer bottom on the large drawer below the table seat needs replacing. We have remover the majority of interior furniture. Dehumidifier is running and removing moisture. No smells or visible mold below or behind furniture.
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Old 01-20-2021, 02:45 AM   #7
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Thanks for the update . . . good luck.
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Old 01-20-2021, 08:59 AM   #8
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Insulation drying

I am going to drill out pop rivets on inner skins to put a small blower moving air to dry insulation. Interestingly we have been running dehumidifier since Saturday and insulation has dried around holes in inner skin where wires penetrate.
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Old 01-20-2021, 03:48 PM   #9
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May be worth buying a couple of those air movers too. The ones used to dry carpets. $100 for one at Lowe’s I believe. That will help get into nooks and crannies and keep air flowing in the unit.
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Old 01-22-2021, 01:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert cross View Post
remove the belly pan and all the soaked insulation, let the floor dry from underneath.👍

sweet streams...

Bob
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this
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Old 01-22-2021, 01:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob May View Post
Just purchased a 2020 flying cloud 27FB that had flood waters about a foot inside the trailer. I am currently working to clean it up and dry it out. All electrical is working for now except the converter. I was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue? My challenge now is identifying how to dry the wall insulation. Any thoughts?
Is that one of the new ones with composite flooring these guys are talking about?
If so, that should eliminate the rotting non treated plywood floors used for decades and decades.
Like these guys are saying, getting Max dry air flow to everything you can will help.The belly pan removal, as painful as it sounds, may be biggest help.
And, even in Michigan, on dry windy winter days, open the windows.That carburetor effect will pull out a lot of moisture.
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Old 01-25-2021, 07:57 PM   #12
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Furnace

Cleaned and got the furnace working tonight. Just needed a reset and it fired right up. Amazing considering it was under water completely. Was able to test both A/C units and Heat Pumps - both worked well from the thermostat. Battery disconnect switch is failed - ordered a new switch. Was wondering if it would be ok to fire hot water heater briefly to verify it works? Tank is currently dry. Just turned on fridge - will check tomorrow to see how it works. I tried the water pump it did not turn on. Will troubleshoot tomorrow. Walls are drying good. About one third around the trailer are dried.
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Old 01-29-2021, 05:56 AM   #13
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My furnace only worked one day then stopped. I checked proper voltage coming in thru the circuit breaker switch and onto the firing circuit board. On the circuit board the power stopped in a black box with small read light. This box had four connections 1) hot 12v dc coming in. 2) 12 v going out. 3 12v wire from thermostat. 4) and wire unknown. The thermostat wire should have been providing 12 v dc power as thermostat was calling for heat. I measured voltage on this wire and it was only 5 volts. That’s a problem. Started casing this and found 12 volt supply from furnace to thermostat was only 5 volts. Problem ended up being my circuit breaker switch which is where this circuit originates. I jumpered around this switch and everything started working. My battery disconnect switch was not functioning either and I had replaced the panel (50.00). I was curious if the circuit breaker switch was faulted on the one i removed. Put it back in and tested it. Interestingly- the out put voltage on this switch was only 4 volts. Jumpered this switch and I could cycle disconnect normally. For some reason these circuit breaker switches are very susceptible to water. Fortunately a replacement is only 10.00.
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Old 01-29-2021, 06:42 AM   #14
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Fresh Water Flood

This is a very interesting thread. I look forward to reading what you discover and repair It is good you are so handy.

Looking forward to the next update. Would love to see some pictures too.
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:33 AM   #15
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Pictures

[attach] 1gc4ypey9lf312773[/attach][attach] 1gc4ypey9lf312773[attach][attach][attach] 1gc4ypey9lf312773[/attach][/attach][/attach][/attach]
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:36 AM   #16
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Thanks for the pictures. It looks like things are going well.
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Old 02-01-2021, 12:07 AM   #17
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Weekend

Great weekend - started reassembling some of the interior. Found shurflow water pump toast! Bearing was bad from water and iron rotor was rusted to magnets. I was able to order exact same replacement online for 65.00 free shipping - got to like that. The only thing yet to address is the hot water heater. We have the entire rear of the trailer walls dried after opening them up and flowing air behind aluminum. I need to figure out some wiring on Blue Ray next. I did also tear apart and Clean the jL Audio sub woofer. It still does not work. Prices on this looks expensive. I will take to electronic repair and see if they can fix.
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Old 02-01-2021, 12:15 AM   #18
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Hensley Arrow

I have opportunity to buy a Hensley Arrow hitch that came off 25 foot airstream. Anyone have any advice on this hitch. It looks pretty well built and in good condition.
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Old 02-01-2021, 09:41 AM   #19
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I've been checking in on this thread since you started it...did you own the trailer before it was flooded or did you buy it afterwards? Just curious...I'd be totally bummed if my "new" trailer flooded! Less so if I got it for a song and "just" had to clean it up and troubleshoot the systems as it appears you are doing. Does it have a salvage title now or still insurable?

I recall a couple of similar threads over the years where folks had to do similar restoration after floods - I'm thinking they were salt water/hurricanes floods though...

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Old 02-01-2021, 09:11 PM   #20
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We were purchased it after it flooded. A couple owned it in Georgia and the creek near their home flooded from 4 feet deep to 20 feet back in October. This was fresh water. We have had it home for 2 weeks and are 75% complete with drying and repairs. We paid 45,000 for the unit. We had about 500 dollars in travel to pick it up. I have spent 365 dollars in repairs so far. I only need to open front walls to dry. Sides and rear are complete. Water was about 6 inches deep inside for a very short time. Some of the walls when opened were actual already dry. I am projecting we will be complete in one more week. Nothing visually was damaged from flood. Just silt. The camper was purchased new may 29 2020 and flooded oct 10. Based on current sales I believe we got this for half price And it looks and smells brand new. The title is not a salvage title. I have insured it. We plan to use this for many years and are taking our time to fix or replace with like for like parts just like the manufacturer installed.
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